Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
1975 Plastic fantastic aka Corvette
Collapse
X
Collapse
-
Originally posted by milner351 View Postwell - it's a track car right? just build a few baffles into a piece of 3" tube and shove some steel wool in the end....Doing it all wrong since 1966
Comment
-
Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Postand now I have sidepipes
You have me to thank, I have been telepathically transmitting signals to your brain for weeks...I can see that my will is strong...hmmm who is next....
I will now attempt to convince myself to do some work on my own car...let's see how this transpires...
as for the flex/vibe issue....can you weld some tabs to the side pipes, then affix some tabs to the body then isolate them with a rubber grommet?Last edited by JOES66FURY; August 9, 2012, 03:46 PM.If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Comment
-
Originally posted by milner351 View Postis there enough room to run a flex section at the collector, then solid mount the side pipe?
Originally posted by JOES66FURY View PostYou have me to thank, I have been telepathically transmitting signals to your brain for weeks...I can see that my will is strong...hmmm who is next....
I will now attempt to convince myself to do some work on my own car...let's see how this transpires...
as for the flex/vibe issue....can you weld some tabs to the side pipes, then affix some tabs to the body then isolate them with a rubber grommet?
the problem with your suggestion (and it's how they do it on AC Cobras), is the motor moves too much - the pipes would move up and down 3" a direction.... on the Cobra, the distance from the head exhaust port is relatively close to the edge of the car... not so with the Corvette - they are roughly 18" from exhaust port to side of the carDoing it all wrong since 1966
Comment
-
alright, if you have that much play you could make sliders. We use these in ares on the engine that have a lot of flex but cannot be soft mounted or have a flex tube built in.
imagine a inch wide piece of flat stock about an 4 inches long. cut the center out just wide enough for a bolt to fit, make another the same way. Then install teflon washers under the bolt and nut head going thru the two and a thin teflon washer between the two pieces of flat stock. tighten down the bolt to the point where it will move but only with force...two on each side should give you enough movement and support to avoid cracks....i hope my explanation is as clear to you as it is to me...i can visualize it...
edit, a castalated nut with a cotter pin would keep it from backing off.Last edited by JOES66FURY; August 10, 2012, 07:34 AM.If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Comment
-
Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Postalright, if you have that much play you could make sliders. We use these in ares on the engine that have a lot of flex but cannot be soft mounted or have a flex tube built in.
imagine a inch wide piece of flat stock about an 4 inches long. cut the center out just wide enough for a bolt to fit, make another the same way. Then install teflon washers under the bolt and nut head going thru the two and a thin teflon washer between the two pieces of flat stock. tighten down the bolt to the point where it will move but only with force...two on each side should give you enough movement and support to avoid cracks....i hope my explanation is as clear to you as it is to me...i can visualize it...
edit, a castalated nut with a cotter pin would keep it from backing off.Doing it all wrong since 1966
Comment
-
Originally posted by cantvalve16 View PostWhat do mean "survive" with solid mounts? You aren't [I]keeping[I] this car are you? (sarcasm font needed) Just kiddin man. Enjoy.Doing it all wrong since 1966
Comment
Comment