You may want to redo the radiator so it's standing more vertical. Just a few degrees more vertical can mean 20* cooler temps.
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1975 Plastic fantastic aka Corvette
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Originally posted by Scott Liggett View PostYou may want to redo the radiator so it's standing more vertical. Just a few degrees more vertical can mean 20* cooler temps.
I am about ready to haul it down to the track.... maybe even next week Time is the issue right nowDoing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostI don't have problems with temps. To make it more vertical would mean cutting a slot in the hood (and completely re-engineering the core support). I made the filler because the radiator install looked undone.
I am about ready to haul it down to the track.... maybe even next week Time is the issue right now
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it's dripping here.... and there's a porsche convertible in our parking lot with its top down - too bad, I don't know where the guy works - but he's a nice guy so I'd tell him if I knew.... wonder if he gets paged when his alarm goes off?Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 21, 2012, 11:03 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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See, I knew better than to think you could have put them on the wrong sides!
I wonder how many people try to bleed them with the wrong bleeder? A friend of mine recently replaced the rear calipers on his truck - put them on backwards, the bleeder was on the bottom. He had a hell of a time trying to get them bled before he realized what he had done... but at least now his brake system is thoroughly flushed with new fluid.
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Originally posted by yellomalibu View PostSee, I knew better than to think you could have put them on the wrong sides!
I wonder how many people try to bleed them with the wrong bleeder? A friend of mine recently replaced the rear calipers on his truck - put them on backwards, the bleeder was on the bottom. He had a hell of a time trying to get them bled before he realized what he had done... but at least now his brake system is thoroughly flushed with new fluid.
there is .100 difference in offset between the fronts and the rears - just enough to cause a lot of bad words to be said when you can't get the caliper to fit over the rotor.... especially since iRotor.com had the same part number on all the boxes.... nope, still don't like them
I'm a big believer it opening up the bleeders and letting it gravity feed...
On the skylark, it's first itneration with disk brakes the bleeder was on the bottom - it was either that or eliminate the driver's side shock.... so I gravity bled it, tightened the valve, the flipped it over and installed it - worked greatLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 24, 2012, 08:55 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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rear sway bar... what a PITA
the problem(s) the bar was bound up, and actually jacking the right side.... not good. Add to that problem there was little if any rear suspension because the bar couldn't go up. I took the bar off, and it drove - kind of - better, but I kept feeling like I was going to lift a front tire on hard corners.... so tonight I worked on it. As you read, keep this in mind - I'm completely changing the rear suspension to a guldstrand suspension; so this is temporary.
round 1
it's hitting the support that holds the rear differential up (maybe a half inch above at ride height)
round 2
move the heims to the other side
round 3 and 4
flip the sway bar over and notch the offending member
rounds 5-7
move the sway bar back, put a spacer between the sway bar, and heat the new contact point
round 8
cut more
now I have 2" of vertical compliance, and 4" of drop. the tab now hits the frame - but I can't shorten the heim because it would reduce the amount of travel. Anyway, I'll drive it tomorrow and see how it's doing - if it doesn't hit much, I'll probably leave it until I do the new suspension.Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 25, 2012, 09:35 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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