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1975 Plastic fantastic aka Corvette

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  • a bit more done, but my knee screamed "uncle" so I'm sitting with ice on it rather than getting something accomplished
    tank under the car, but I don't like it this way...so it probably will change (though the picture would look exactly the same).


    finished the tank
    pre


    post - before it's completely done, I'll hit it with a flap wheel and blend the grain.... but it's not going to be beautiful, simply utilitarian.


    yeah, I suppose I should finish it to a nice #4 finish, but as rocks and everything else will be hitting it; I've chosen to go with the "easy to refinish" finish.

    A question....

    what if I fiberglass the tank gas cap cover in permanently, and mount the filler behind it on the deck? I don't like dragging fuel hoses over the back and getting it closer to the rear would help with that


    Or I suppose super-dorky

    leave the cap in place, and use it as access to the top of the tank....


    thoughts?
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; November 1, 2012, 07:22 PM.
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

    Comment


    • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
      thoughts?
      Nope... ok, well, a couple.

      1. If the fillier is still on top, you will still get a drop or two of gas on the paint. It's a lot of effort to move the filler neck to save a few more drops of gas getting on the deck lid area.
      2. doesn't the filler hole in the tank already line up with the oem gas cap door?
      3. Why would you need access to the top of the tank? In case the sender goes bad? You'd still have to drop the tank to change it, right?


      You seem to have the ability to do just about anything, just how you like it, and as always, I'll be watching your pictorial progress when you decide what to do in this case.

      Comment


      • I don't think I'd glass it in place. Take a lesson from the marine industry - use 3M bedding compound / putty - it puts up with the flex and thermal expansion rate difference between fiberglass and metal - it's a standard for all through fittings on boats, including fuel fill ports.

        I don't think I'd add any more holes to that deck - put the new filler where the old one was.

        Use a rag when you fill up pull the nozzle up - put the rag under it immediately - then you're fine.
        There's always something new to learn.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by milner351 View Post
          I don't think I'd glass it in place. Take a lesson from the marine industry - use 3M bedding compound / putty - it puts up with the flex and thermal expansion rate difference between fiberglass and metal - it's a standard for all through fittings on boats, including fuel fill ports.

          I don't think I'd add any more holes to that deck - put the new filler where the old one was.

          Use a rag when you fill up pull the nozzle up - put the rag under it immediately - then you're fine.
          I didn't make something clear. The size of the gas filler is smaller than the size of the existing hole. In short, I'm doing fiberglass work already, so it's all basically the same amount of work.
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

          Comment


          • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
            1 - always grind the yoke off then cut the tube. The cut doesn't have to perfectly square because it slides about 3/8" into the driveshaft tube
            2 - always mark a centerline (with indelible markings - like paint)* on the tube and yoke so you get the yoke back in exactly the same spot
            3 - you don't need a lathe but it's really nice for doing a continuous weld, you also don't need to cut it on the lathe because it's easy to square the yoke in the tube....


            if you run masking tape from yoke to yoke down the driveshaft, then paint with high visibility paint; you'll be pretty close to perfect every time.

            if there's any interest, I'll do a how-to with this shaft next monday.
            I know you didn't need to modify the shaft this time but how about a how-to anyway? I've got a couple of projects that need the driveshafts shortened.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by racingsnake440 View Post
              I know you didn't need to modify the shaft this time but how about a how-to anyway? I've got a couple of projects that need the driveshafts shortened.
              presuming the honey-do list is short enough, I'll do it sunday.
              Doing it all wrong since 1966

              Comment


              • if you are looking for a way to make the new gas cap work in the old hole how about cut out a polished stainless steal ring to go up under the new cap and fill the hole. Why can you not use the stock gas door?
                Last edited by Russell; November 3, 2012, 04:04 PM.
                http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                PB 60' 1.49
                ​​​​​​

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Russell View Post
                  if you are looking for a way to make the new gas cap work in the old hole how about cut out a polished stainless steal ring to go up under the new cap and fill the hole. Why can you not use the stock gas door?
                  the problem with that route (and I even looked at it again today) is the gas filler would be 6" below the deck to clear the hinge from the gas door.... in the end, I took the easy way out


                  (for that one person who thinks I get it right the first time)





                  and a framework was made for the tank with some straps


                  I'll have a couple more pictures of that when I pull the tank down - I had to weld the frame in place, and have to drop the tank to finish weld.
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post





                    .
                    Why did i not think about that?
                    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                    1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                    PB 60' 1.49
                    ​​​​​​

                    Comment


                    • and the framework
                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                      • Forgot

                        Update on the FAST install. I powered up the system today, everything came up and no error codes (woohoo). Funny, how technology has improved to make "tuners" obsolete....

                        However,

                        it wouldn't be me if there weren't something to b*t*h about.


                        I sent FAST an email at least 3 weeks ago asking about the 02 sensor in the sidepipes. As you may have seen in my post, After waiting with no word, I ground a bit off the ceramic coating to put the sensor in place (weeks ago).


                        want to guess what FAST said?


                        "you should put the sensor in 'closer' to the motor"

                        WTF charlie?

                        "put the sensor in the leanest pipe" ... so I need to drill 8 more holes? uh, no.

                        Anyway, their late take on this is the sensor (at the outside rails) is too far from the motor to get an accurate reading. I say they're full of crap - as there are several OEM designs where the O2 sensor is as far away.... anyway, if I'm wrong, I'll have to drill another hole in the ceramic coating.

                        I'd ask them how far is "closer" to the exhaust port.... but it'd probably take them until 2013 to get me an answer.

                        Ah well, it's still pretty easy to install EFI... I figure, if a high school graduate can, anybody can
                        Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; November 4, 2012, 10:31 PM.
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                        • not done yet....but close
                          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                          • Looking good!

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                            • It runs...only made one mistake, I didn't realize the ignition switched lug turned off on starting - so simply moving the plug up to one that didn't turn off and varoom.

                              a mess, but installed

                              gratuitous engine shots





                              and I got another scoop... think I'm going with it

                              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                              • Excellent.
                                I'm still learning

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