1975 Plastic fantastic aka Corvette

[mike343sharpstick]

The brakes on your Vette are very similar to what I have on the Javelin! Only difference is that I have the Aerospace Calipers rather than the Wilwood, but the basic design is very similar.
Are you using the 7/8 diameter master cylinder? I have the 1 1/8 and I'm likely going to go with the 7/8 soon to reduce the needed pedal pressure.
Very sad on the EFI, Damn!

[SuperBuickGuy]

it's 7/8"

[NASBackyard]

Nice work !

[SuperBuickGuy]

EZ EFI removal

Yep, the day has finally come - what a waste of money, the issue with the EFI is lack of tuneability. You cannot control the IAC, nor can you force the EFI to follow a AF ratio - you can suggest an AF ratio, but the computer will say no and then you're stuck... and don't get me started about mpg, the holley double pumper I originally put on this (850 cfm) got better mileage and because there's really only one spot for the 02 sensor, I've gone through 2 in less than 1000 miles because they clog up (because that stupid thing is running too rich). Is it for sale? yes, but I'm not giving it away because eventually I'll build something this would work on....

[SuperBuickGuy]

efi fuel pump


efi


one thing I should have done before is rebuild this carb... ah well, it's a holley, it's pretty simple to rebuild


a clean bench is an abomination


850 being used as a rag to keep crap out of the intake


pretty, shiney bits (after carb clean)


I wish I could put this closer to the tank but that's just not going to happen... fortunately, it's lower than the tank so once it's primed, it won't have to work that hard

[SuperBuickGuy]

almost like I know how to do this




yesterday I finished attaching it to the motor and doing the plumbing. Of course, I packaged up the EFI without taking the throttle pin off... anyway, tomorrow, wire the fuel pump and then set the pressure and float levels, then tune.....
I'm going to be 100% cocky - I think I won't have to change anything from my initial settings (70/78 jets, 12 power valves - 6.5 from 5.5 rear, silver spring on the vacuum canister)

[SuperBuickGuy]

and it runs, again.... it's raining, so no test drives to see how I did...

[SuperBuickGuy]

It's been stumbling at tip-in, and seemed to not be pulling as hard as I'm used to from 2500 to 4000 rpm.
I did the normal, make sure the squirter was right, that it moved right (fixed a bit there)... but nothing sprung out and said "look at me!!!"
until I pulled the distributor cap.... I've heard of lubing the distributor, but this is ridiculous



so what to do? simply replace? upgrade a bit? .... I think I'll buy a cheap replacement so I can continue the diagnosis (I'm under no delusion that this fixes the problem... but with the amount of oil slung around, I'm sure it's a factor)....

[SuperBuickGuy]

because I simply must test the stock rod bolts... I'll add this to my Corvette on Sunday

the first, and most important test of aluminum heads is the sniff test. For those of you who don't have a bloodhound, I'm not sure how you adequately perform this


these things are amazing, for less than $600 delivered - notice, it's also drilled for either the Vortec or the old-style intake


for those who don't, I suggest shop slippers




the important red-filter test


These things are pretty nice. They have cheap springs on them, they aren't blended at all and there is a bit of casting flash - they aren't machined at all except what is required - which actually tells a good story about their casting process.... good grief, these things are good castings (no big divots anywhere or poor mold prep), 2.05 intake, heads. They use the vortec design, you can get with angle or straight plug, and have old-school valve cover bolt pattern (which is cool since I have finned valve covers I want to put on my C3). I'm really impressed. $579 on ebay.

I may, actually, pull the motor and put ARP rod bolts on the bottom end... naw. I just have to be careful and keep my 5500 rev limiter firmly in place.

[yellomalibu]

To replace the rod bolts, especially if you are changing them from stock to ARP, aren't you supposed to resize the rods?

I think I like your plan of keeping the rpm's to 5500... for now. ;)

[68scott385]

To replace the rod bolts, especially if you are changing them from stock to ARP, aren't you supposed to resize the rods?

I think I like your plan of keeping the rpm's to 5500... for now. ;)

Same with main bolts from what my machinist has told me. Your toy, play with it as you wish.

[Scott Liggett]

The real secret to cylinder heads isn't how pretty they are, or how big the valves are; it's how much air they flow. Heads are everything to making power. Getting the air in and out.

Hopefully they work well too.

[SuperBuickGuy]

The real secret to cylinder heads isn't how pretty they are, or how big the valves are; it's how much air they flow. Heads are everything to making power. Getting the air in and out.

Hopefully they work well too.

the whole point of these heads is to provide the Vortec heads to the FJ40 build. - they cost the same as the Vortec heads, but they have the potential of a lot more... at this point, other than making sure the ports aren't too mismatched; they're staying as is and will, I hope, provide the foundation for a monster build for the Corvette... but the date of that build is well down the road.

[Scott Liggett]

Vortecs are no doubt the best flowing small block heads GM ever made. Our company makes a couple 350's that are the same with the exception one has the 87-95 heads with 2.02 valves, the other has Vortecs with 2.02 valves. 310 hp and 385 hp. 75 hp increase only with the heads.

[SuperBuickGuy]

these Vortec heads are stock, 1.94 valve.
When I built my blower motor, I wanted to run Vortec heads with the blower and a friend claimed he could port/work the heads to put 2.02 valves in it. He ruined 3 heads and the heads that have the 3/8" hole were the replacement.... he kept grinding through, knowing what I know now - I wonder at why he did anything but cleanup on the Vortec heads. Oh well, was an expensive lesson for him.