Haley's '80 Mustang...aka The Pumpkin

[Beagle]

Arent the 255 brackets the same. I have a buddy who scraps E7's all the time. Seen a set of gt40's for $50 in BG couple weeks ago on CL. What year is the Block would be deciding factor for me. Roller cam with forged pistons are in what 87-92?

yes, buy them for me please, yes



I need some 64cc SBF heads with small decent ports for a truck motor.

Roller cam started 85, the 86 has true flat top forged trw's, the 87-92 have about 5cc of dish/valve relief. I'm not even sure if the E7's will fit a 255 bore.

[catchmeblue70]

The car got pressure washed today, but 30+ years of crap doesn't come off too easily, so it could stand being cleaned again. The new gaskets got put on the old valve covers. The aluminum ones will go on once they're polished and I know that there aren't other leaks.

[STINEY]

Easy-Off oven cleaner is your friend for underhood goo removal.

Spray on, let sit, hose off. DO NOT let sit on painted surfaces you would like to remain painted.

Also works nicely for removing certain types of tar-based undercoatings.

[Scott Liggett]

Gasoline works great, but you need to do a bit of scrubbing.

Simple Green is what I use on my stuff. Full strength.

The best stuff I've ever used is Oil Eater. Its a natural catalyst for grease. You spray it on and it literally starts melting grease instantly. I havent been able to find around here for a while.

I wouldnt use aerosol type degreasers. Most suck and your car will smell like that crap for a month.

[catchmeblue70]

The stuff I used did pretty well considering it didn't stay on there long. If I can get a 302 to put in it I'll clean it a lot better, but right now it's just to see if oil is still leaking or not.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Gasoline works great, but you need to do a bit of scrubbing.

Simple Green is what I use on my stuff. Full strength.

The best stuff I've ever used is Oil Eater. Its a natural catalyst for grease. You spray it on and it literally starts melting grease instantly. I havent been able to find around here for a while.

I wouldnt use aerosol type degreasers. Most suck and your car will smell like that crap for a month.

costco, and they sell it cheap.

Oh, and I'm pretty sure you can order it from Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Eater-AOD1G35437-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B000EALHHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348549739&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+eater

it's good stuff

[Scott Liggett]

costco, and they sell it cheap.

Oh, and I'm pretty sure you can order it from Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Eater-AOD1G35437-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B000EALHHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348549739&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+eater

it's good stuff

I may order it. Going to the local Costco is masochistic behavior.

[1trickpony]

Haley, let me know if you need parts. I have some good yards around me and might be able to help you out. Some of them get picked quick but if I know when I go I can usually get some good deals.

[catchmeblue70]

Haley, let me know if you need parts. I have some good yards around me and might be able to help you out. Some of them get picked quick but if I know when I go I can usually get some good deals.

Thanks, I'll keep you in mind once I actually start working on it more!

[catchmeblue70]

I took the car to the NMRA World Finals yesterday at Beech Bend, but before we even left I noticed oil splatters on the driveway. The bottom one looks funny because I stuck my fingers in it to see what it was (keep your jokes to yourself!). Do valve seals have a break-in period or something?

[kyhunter89]

Not gonna be valve seals. Thats gonna be a leak. Look over the motor, check valve cover gaskets, oilpan gaskets, timing chain cover and your oil plug and filter. It can leak more place but those are the more common ones.

[Deaf Bob]

Go by an appliance store and get a big sheet of cardboard (plywood works) and park the car on it... Mark the tires..
After some time, move the car... You will know where it comes from then..

[Huskinhano]

IMO, that top is a POS. I can't imagine a whole lot of time being being spent on it when it was originally installed. They probably just sprayed some glue and plopped that hair helmet on over the top and window trim as well. It's certainly not helping any rust issues with it being on. Any missing trim should be easy to find.

I like the idea of the Explorer GT40 or GT40P motors especially the P. The down side is the front dress is different, no real problem other then chasing down all the little bits which can get annoying when your tight on time and money. Consider waiting for a complete late 80's or early 90's 5.0 Mustang that'll bolt right in. Remove the EFI stuff and bolt on a carb. One great thing about these motors is that even with 100K miles, they're in great shape. I've seen many a post where at that mileage, they have little if any cylinder wall wear and the factory cross hatch from honing still there.

I still miss my 85, 5.0. Never should have sold it...probably would have lost my license if I still had it, LOL. I use to get over 25 MPG doing 70-75 MPH, mine was a carb motor, not EFI.

[Russell]

I also like the gt40p engine they are pretty cheap and not that hard to find. And the long block can make pretty good power. I don't know anything about the 255 but I thought it shared everything with a 302. I think the front dress, oil pan, intake, off the 255 should work on a P engine. The only things that might give you trouble are the exhaust manifolds. I have shorties and long tube headers on my cars that work with 90* plug wires that were not made for P heads. The gear on the distributor needs to be changed for a roller cam. If you don't want to use the oil cooler you will need to remove the filter adapter or buy a new one. The balancer and flywheel flex plate must be 50 oz.

GT40P Budget:
Long block $400
Gasket Kit $200
Distributor Gear $30
Oil Filter adapter $10
Balancer $50
Will the auto flex plate work?
Up Graded parts Total $690

5.0 HO out of 87-93 mustang switched to carb:
Engine $400-600
you still have to switch the front cover unless you run an e-fuel pump. So you still need all the same gaskets. $200
save on balancer, oil filter adapter
May need flex plate
Still need distributor gear $30

Other stuff / while I am here. Plugs $20, wires $40, Oil & Filter $25, Motor mts $60, anti-freeze $20, oil pump / shaft $75, Hoses $100, belt $30,

The HO engine does have a better cam shaft than the GT40P engine. They say if you put a cam in the P motor it needs upgraded valve springs. The heads are better on the P engine I think they pull better in higher RPMs. At some point you might want an intake and carb. Food for thought, your mileage may very.

[catchmeblue70]

Oooook...lots of info for me to translate. I also realized that I meant valve cover gaskets instead of valve seals, since that's what I just put on there. Bob, I hope to do that this weekend when I finally have a little free time. Tom, the top IS a POS lol. I'm just trying to figure out what I want to do with the car in general...if the metal is good I might not put one back on and just paint everything. Russell, I'm still trying to figure all yours out...sorry! I'm a hands-on learner so until I actually pop the hood and see stuff, I have no idea what's going on. The thing is, I have access to a 302 that came out of my uncle's '79, I'm just not sure if it's the original engine or the ~11-12 second drag engine. I have a lot to figure out, but I have plenty of time till I have funds available anyway.