That's a good deal if there's anything left of it (hasn't been frozen, etc.). I got $200 for mine a while back.
Dan
Haley's '80 Mustang...aka The Pumpkin
Collapse
X
-
I think we found a volunteer to help you get 'er done, Haley.Originally posted by kyhunter89 View PostLeave a comment:
-
Just found this thread. On the top I go with most here and would peel it and the trim holding it down on the edges, off. If the paint is bad which buy the time the glue is off , it will be, just sand it all off. Then if you don't have the cash for a full paint job,just paint the top white. most people will probably will think it came that way since they're used to seeing a white top. I would also change out the side windows for the latter notchback side glass. Just covers where the fake vents are behind the side glass. Over all smoother/ cleaner effect.Leave a comment:
-
-
-
Oooook...lots of info for me to translate. I also realized that I meant valve cover gaskets instead of valve seals, since that's what I just put on there. Bob, I hope to do that this weekend when I finally have a little free time. Tom, the top IS a POS lol. I'm just trying to figure out what I want to do with the car in general...if the metal is good I might not put one back on and just paint everything. Russell, I'm still trying to figure all yours out...sorry! I'm a hands-on learner so until I actually pop the hood and see stuff, I have no idea what's going on. The thing is, I have access to a 302 that came out of my uncle's '79, I'm just not sure if it's the original engine or the ~11-12 second drag engine. I have a lot to figure out, but I have plenty of time till I have funds available anyway.Leave a comment:
-
I also like the gt40p engine they are pretty cheap and not that hard to find. And the long block can make pretty good power. I don't know anything about the 255 but I thought it shared everything with a 302. I think the front dress, oil pan, intake, off the 255 should work on a P engine. The only things that might give you trouble are the exhaust manifolds. I have shorties and long tube headers on my cars that work with 90* plug wires that were not made for P heads. The gear on the distributor needs to be changed for a roller cam. If you don't want to use the oil cooler you will need to remove the filter adapter or buy a new one. The balancer and flywheel flex plate must be 50 oz.
GT40P Budget:
Long block $400
Gasket Kit $200
Distributor Gear $30
Oil Filter adapter $10
Balancer $50
Will the auto flex plate work?
Up Graded parts Total $690
5.0 HO out of 87-93 mustang switched to carb:
Engine $400-600
you still have to switch the front cover unless you run an e-fuel pump. So you still need all the same gaskets. $200
save on balancer, oil filter adapter
May need flex plate
Still need distributor gear $30
Other stuff / while I am here. Plugs $20, wires $40, Oil & Filter $25, Motor mts $60, anti-freeze $20, oil pump / shaft $75, Hoses $100, belt $30,
The HO engine does have a better cam shaft than the GT40P engine. They say if you put a cam in the P motor it needs upgraded valve springs. The heads are better on the P engine I think they pull better in higher RPMs. At some point you might want an intake and carb. Food for thought, your mileage may very.Leave a comment:
-
IMO, that top is a POS. I can't imagine a whole lot of time being being spent on it when it was originally installed. They probably just sprayed some glue and plopped that hair helmet on over the top and window trim as well. It's certainly not helping any rust issues with it being on. Any missing trim should be easy to find.
I like the idea of the Explorer GT40 or GT40P motors especially the P. The down side is the front dress is different, no real problem other then chasing down all the little bits which can get annoying when your tight on time and money. Consider waiting for a complete late 80's or early 90's 5.0 Mustang that'll bolt right in. Remove the EFI stuff and bolt on a carb. One great thing about these motors is that even with 100K miles, they're in great shape. I've seen many a post where at that mileage, they have little if any cylinder wall wear and the factory cross hatch from honing still there.
I still miss my 85, 5.0. Never should have sold it...probably would have lost my license if I still had it, LOL. I use to get over 25 MPG doing 70-75 MPH, mine was a carb motor, not EFI.Last edited by Huskinhano; October 9, 2012, 06:31 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Go by an appliance store and get a big sheet of cardboard (plywood works) and park the car on it... Mark the tires..
After some time, move the car... You will know where it comes from then..Leave a comment:
-
Not gonna be valve seals. Thats gonna be a leak. Look over the motor, check valve cover gaskets, oilpan gaskets, timing chain cover and your oil plug and filter. It can leak more place but those are the more common ones.Leave a comment:
-
I took the car to the NMRA World Finals yesterday at Beech Bend, but before we even left I noticed oil splatters on the driveway. The bottom one looks funny because I stuck my fingers in it to see what it was (keep your jokes to yourself!). Do valve seals have a break-in period or something?Leave a comment:
-
Thanks, I'll keep you in mind once I actually start working on it more!Originally posted by 1trickpony View PostHaley, let me know if you need parts. I have some good yards around me and might be able to help you out. Some of them get picked quick but if I know when I go I can usually get some good deals.Leave a comment:
-
Haley, let me know if you need parts. I have some good yards around me and might be able to help you out. Some of them get picked quick but if I know when I go I can usually get some good deals.Leave a comment:
-
I may order it. Going to the local Costco is masochistic behavior.Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostLeave a comment:
Leave a comment: