Un-race-car-ing the 68 Chevelle

[Beagle]

Ah, the sweet smell of anti-freeze in the car... something the Fox guys here know all too well. I am dreading it, as you can't really run a car here without one (have to have defroster). If your carpet were outside here today it would be stiff / brittle / Frozen, garages are good!

[yellomalibu]

There are plenty of people here who say I don't need a heater core - but the good cruising weather is when it's cool out, and I LIKE my heater. It's also a good auxillary radiator if the car starts to overheat.

I am not looking forward to installing the heater core. I've never put one in a Chevelle before, so I'm a little apprehensive. Checking it out on the Chevelle forum, they say that to get the bottom bolt out of the heater box, the inner fender has to come out. Others chimed in and said that the service manual says to drill it out and leave it out. Not sure which route I'll go... will I do it right or get lazy? On the other hand, Is it worth the risk of scratching the car with the inner fender for one un-important bolt?

[Bamfster]

In all honesty, the two times I've done mine, I just slipped the inner fender out and everything was way easy to get at. Really, it's not that big of a deal IMO.

[yellomalibu]

In all honesty, the two times I've done mine, I just slipped the inner fender out and everything was way easy to get at. Really, it's not that big of a deal IMO.

Alright, you talked me into it.

BTW, is your car an air car? Mine is a factory a/c car, and still has all the stuff under the dash. I only gutted the firewall, forward of a/c components.

Have I ever shown a pic of my heater box that I made from the original evaporator box? Hmmm, can only find one so-so pic.

[Bamfster]

Mine was an original A/C car, but in my ignorance turning it into a light weight bracket car, all that stuff hit the dumpster (hindsight really is 20/20). I added sheetmetal to the firewall and swapped in the core/box/blower from a non A/C car. Either way, once the inner fender gets out of the way, all the studs, etc are rather easy to get at. Get the frontend up as high as you can in the air so its more comfortable to get at.

[SuperBuickGuy]

also you don't have to completely remove the inner fender - take the bolts out and drop it to the tire.... reduces the risk of scratching. It's been a long time since I did the heater core in the Skylark - but I thought you only had to get the three nuts off the firewall, then remove the box from the inside to replace the core (which with a long socket and swivel was possible without dropping the inner fender)? faulty memory?

[Bamfster]

also you don't have to completely remove the inner fender - take the bolts out and drop it to the tire.... reduces the risk of scratching. It's been a long time since I did the heater core in the Skylark - but I thought you only had to get the three nuts off the firewall, then remove the box from the inside to replace the core (which with a long socket and swivel was possible without dropping the inner fender)? faulty memory?

Yup .... you're memory isn't going, that's the way it done. I just like to get it completely out, that way I can sit on the ground in there and work with ease.....but you're right, it doesn't have to come all the way out.

[yellomalibu]

Cool beans. Thanks for the tips.

I also will be repairing my power steering gear box soon. It's leaking from the front convex cover (around the edges). I'm pretty sure it's just the o-ring behind it, and the convex piece of metal is simply held in by a spring clip. I'll probably have to buy the whole seal kit, but that's still a lot cheaper than buying a re-manufactured gear box.
Are there any surprises or things to know before I dig into it, or is it as straight forward as I hope?
The Lucas power steering stop leak has finally swelled up the seal on the pump shaft... so at least I don't have to mess with that. :-)

[yellomalibu]

Mine was an original A/C car, but in my ignorance turning it into a light weight bracket car, all that stuff hit the dumpster (hindsight really is 20/20). I added sheetmetal to the firewall and swapped in the core/box/blower from a non A/C car. Either way, once the inner fender gets out of the way, all the studs, etc are rather easy to get at. Get the frontend up as high as you can in the air so its more comfortable to get at.

You got that right.
Me, 1994: It's a hot rod, it doesn't need A/C
Me, now: Doh!

[Blazerteam]

How fast did it run with the old engine?.You should do another dragstrip try when you are finished,just to check how much you have "slowed"it down

[ChevyII Wagon]

I'm also taking a Drag Car back to a Daily Driver, it's fun !

[yellomalibu]

How fast did it run with the old engine?.You should do another dragstrip try when you are finished,just to check how much you have "slowed"it down

I took it to the track once and got one good pass. It slowed from 7.0's in the 1/8th to 7.70 in the 1/8th. I had lean jets in it at the time, and have put the "called for" jets in since then. 1 number larger in the front, 2 numbers larger in the rear - or something like that.
I considered, briefly, trying to tweak it to get it quicker... but I know where that path leads, and THIS engine/ converter/ intake/ cam/ carburetor is the result of leaving that path. I don't dare start down that other path again. Not at this point in time.

[yellomalibu]

Well, I've been thinking about converting the 12 bolt in the car back to "normal" again... which would require ordering parts to rebuild the Brute Strength, ordering C-clip eliminators for my stock axles (or spider gears for the 33 spline axles with 5/8 studs), and ordering 3.73 gears... then having them installed...


Then I saw this on Craigslist for less money than the above would cost:


3.42 gear, complete drum to drum.
It needs a new brake shoes and bushings - but the guy threw in a brand new Mr Gasket CHROME cover!
... and it's an open diff. Oh well. As soon as I know this one works right (not bent or something) I'll sell the current race set-up rear end for twice what I paid for this, and buy a posi unit. Or maybe I'll one wheel peel for a while... Nah, that will probably drive me crazy the first day.

[Bamfster]

How about adding a loc-right or powertrax locker to the open diff? They are truly a drop in into an open diff ....

[SuperBuickGuy]

loc-rites are awesome - I had one in the Buick. They do pop and they don't always unlock, but you always have both wheel putting power to the ground. Did I mention they are cheap and easy to install too?