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The Silver Buick's 1969 Firebird OHC six project.

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  • Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
    Maybe a welding school and tell them what you want..
    I just talked to my local welding supply guys and they know by what I buy and our reputation for tough cars from other derby guys and they said a couple of the salesmen could spend a couple hours showinf us how to use the equipment.
    I go in and say, 023 wire or a tip for the welder or torch.. They have it on file..
    There is no welding school or salesmen around here. There is one automotive shop in town that advertises welding aluminum, but I am skeptical of their abilities.

    Those brazing/soldering rods look interesting.

    I think I'm going to step down the wire size on my MIG for the header build. It's currently 0.03x" and will see about going down to a 0.02x" size to reduce burn through.
    Escaped on a technicality.

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    • I've been contemplating what kind of exhaust to put on the car, balancing cost versus efficiency, versus function (sound!). I think I have a rough idea of what I'll do to minimize some of these costs.

      I think I'll run a 4" exhaust off the turbo and as soon as the pipe is parallel under the floor boards have a cut out split with a pair of V-band connections on it. The direction with the best flow will get a sealed cap for day to day driving, and have a 4" diameter 90º pipe to take it's place when I want it un-corked. The other direction will reduce down to 2.5", or maybe a pair of 2.5" pipes, that I happen to have sitting around from the Skylarks old system, and run out the back of the car, unmuffled to start but if a single pipe I can add a muffler easily, or spring for a dual inlet/outlet muffler. Then possibly have the exhaust supported in such a way that I can simply unclamp the 2.5 pipe(s) and put the V-band sealed cap over that way to have all the exhaust go out the 4" pipe. Not including a dual inlet/outlet muffler I think I can build this system for around $200. 4" stuff is pricey! I could probably eventually install a remote cutout valve, similar to the Skylark's, on it as well.

      Alternatively, I would be around $290-$300 to run 4" pipe to the rear of the car, with some expected complications getting that size pipe around the axle and gas tank, and that doesn't include any muffler cost.
      Escaped on a technicality.

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      • If you are using a 110v wire feed, by all means go to 0.023 wire!
        The machine will not need to be running on high all the time..
        You can get away with your current tip, but may experience "walk"
        And I would use Argon..

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        • @ Silver Buick- I took a chance and bought some of the "muggyweld" rods (kit) years earlier I had bought the rods that the guys weld pop cans together with at the shows/fair. THOSE SUCK.
          My Dad, was giving me hell for being 'ripped off again' thinking they were the same product. They ARE NOT.
          I was able to fix the front trim on my Auburn with the muggyweld brazing kit. The original Auburn parts are made out of "Unobtainium" (v. potmetal) and I am still delighted with the results. I kinda screwed myself as fellow ACD guys saw my fix, and had me working on their junk!
          See my build at: www.1932auburnsedan.com

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          • Originally posted by V12guy View Post
            @ Silver Buick- I took a chance and bought some of the "muggyweld" rods (kit) years earlier I had bought the rods that the guys weld pop cans together with at the shows/fair. THOSE SUCK.
            My Dad, was giving me hell for being 'ripped off again' thinking they were the same product. They ARE NOT.
            I was able to fix the front trim on my Auburn with the muggyweld brazing kit. The original Auburn parts are made out of "Unobtainium" (v. potmetal) and I am still delighted with the results. I kinda screwed myself as fellow ACD guys saw my fix, and had me working on their junk!

            That's good to know!
            Escaped on a technicality.

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            • Progress! First set of headers I've ever attempted to build, but so far I'm satisfied with the progress. Before I stitch the tubes together I'm going to get a smaller wire for my welder to reduce the chance of blowing through the metal. Once I have the tubes welded, I'll build a pair of collectors down to the 1.75" pipe, then do final metall stretching and welding to the flange.




              I'm going to be giving it more thought, but I think this routing will let me use the pipes I have as is. I just need another 90º coupler or two. This routing will require just one hole through the core support on the driver's side. Then I'll build a new intake manifold and line up the throttle body with the tubing.
              Escaped on a technicality.

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              • I looked at the 2.7 twin turbo in the new F150 and they're hanging the turbos right off the end of the manifolds... really close to the mill. Hell, you could put two right there! Just how committed to a single are you? Kidding... Looks great man, you're getting gooder!
                Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                • I'm fully committed, but this guy on the Pontiac OHC forum has hung a pair of Volvo turbo's off the side of the engine. He is still building the truck it's in, but did a short test drive around the block. He has some small things to still sort out.







                  Escaped on a technicality.

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                  • Andy - Thanks for the Muggyweld info. Looks like just what I'll need when I make mods to the intake side for a bigger turbo sometime in the future.

                    Randal - The trick to welding thin stuff like exhaust tubing is to NOT expect to run long continuous beads like you would do on heavier stock. A short dot here and there (move them around to minimize warpage) until all the dots connect together. This is from a guy with MANY years of melting body metal together. There's a tendency to think "I could polish this off quicker if I ran this bead a little longer" and you'll blow thru and/or warp the whole deal. A bit less heat and smaller wire all help but still, do little dots.

                    For SS I have my little MIG set up with SS wire and a pure Argon cylinder. IF I get the base metals really clean it works great. I forget what diameter wire I'm using but probably 0.023".

                    Our local community college does NOT offer a class that includes MIGging aluminum, darn it. I have a spool gun that came with my Eastwood welder and the solution may be to just start melting aluminum wire 'till I get the hang of it but it would be nice to start with some instruction. I've bugged our local welding shop to do some weekend seminars but so far no luck.

                    Dan

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                    • I did some practice MIG'ing yesterday on all the scrap pieces. Got the welder settings to about where I think they should be to do the final welding.

                      The Mrs. also agreed that if I have the turbo on the Firebird by the time Drag Week 2017's registration opens, I can register Motivation!
                      Escaped on a technicality.

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                      • She's a keeper.

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                        • It's too late to figure that out, he already married her

                          Yes, she is great!
                          My fabulous web page

                          "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                          • I guess I'm old fashioned.. Marry for life.. She was a keeper when I asked her to marry me! Still is. 42 years in less than a month.. Is that a keeper?

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                            • Sounds like it, but you better ask her.

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                              • Originally posted by hauen View Post
                                Sounds like it, but you better ask her.
                                Afraid of the answer, so I'll stay mum..

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