Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

The Silver Buick's 1969 Firebird OHC six project.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • I've got a DIYautotune relay board in the Skylark engine bay with that same connector on it since 2009, and the MS3/3X harness with that plug since 2013, no issues. So I bought a couple for the Firebird and they have been working since the beginning of 2014. Probably could put some dielectric grease in them for extra protection, but I haven't.

    I thought I had a better picture of the Skylark's, but this is the injector and coil pack harness plug before I put the covers on.


    Makes it pretty easy to pull the engine when the harness stays on it.


    Escaped on a technicality.

    Comment


    • I love exhaust dumps for the track. How about getting a removable plate to cap off the bottom of the 4" down pipe the t into the side of the 4" with the 3.5"
      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
      1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

      PB 60' 1.49
      ​​​​​​

      Comment


      • Wow, haven't updated this in a while.

        The engine has been in machine shop jail for longer than its supposed to have been... but the rebuilt transmission made it back to me! I'm working on all the other details as time allows.

        I finally finished the battery relocation to the trunk and got the car fired up and moving. The low pressure fuel pump promptly quit on me, but I've since changed it out. Moved on to changing out the body bushings and adding subframe connectors.









        A big thing is new headers that clear everything. I've got the rear collector welded up, and am working on the front merge but only have it mocked up so far. I need to cut the holes in the primary pipe and then weld the tubes on. I've since lost my EZ-up to the wind :'( Didn't have it tied down well enough. It's served me well since 2011.




        Don't look too closely at my welding!








        Moved the car into the garage to start the transmission swap. It's nice working on concrete again! I've removed the 2004-r and have started the process of installing the new 4L60e. The LS versions of the transmissions have funny spacing between the torque converter and bellhousing mating surface, so have been working through those issues. Might put it in tonight...


        Once the transmission is in, I will go back to focusing on the headers. With the transmission in, I can bring the car to Drag Week in naturally aspirated trim, with the headers finished, I can bring it with the turbo. With or without a new short block. I may be taking a few days off work to get this all done. The machine shop said today it's being bored and decked. The crankshaft is done. They will need to do honing, cut valve reliefs, and make a small spacer to let me use a Chevy 250 SFI flex plate. I was going to make a new wiring harness but do not think I have the time, so will simply change out the injector pigtails with the new ones for the new injectors.

        For the turbo engine particularly, I need to re-do my fuel system. I am plumbing -8 fragola fuel line in and running a return line from the fuel rail, which currently I do not. I plan on going back to the "pipe" style surge canister, but will weld it shut instead of screw on caps and no brass fittings. Should look a lot more acceptable! lol
        Escaped on a technicality.

        Comment


        • If you want people to stop hassling you about the surge tank, just grab some electrical tape and attach a small clock to it.

          Comment


          • Or just quit posting pictures of it. Not like anyone could see it in the car =P

            Picked up a Drag Week trailer for $120. Need to put new wood down, change the trailer plug to one my vehicles use and for prudence change the wheel bearings. Came with a spare tire in one of the boxes. Now I need to get a trailer hitch on the car!!






            Not to mention it came with this!
            Escaped on a technicality.

            Comment


            • Excellent work! Hope you have a great week with quarter miletimes better than you hope for.

              Comment


              • it just dawned on me - I guess the Love Shack didn't make the trip to the new house?
                Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Beagle View Post
                  it just dawned on me - I guess the Love Shack didn't make the trip to the new house?
                  No it didn't, and to make it worse, I completely forgot I left a small generator and window A/C in in it

                  Mostly finished the header the other night. I had to go work out of town for the weekend, so I dragged my welder and stuff with me to work on after hours. I am going to cut the collectors down for 90º bends when I have it mocked back up on the engine. I'm going to paint, then wrap it. That ought to hide my welds!

                  Escaped on a technicality.

                  Comment


                  • the question is, will the leaks be hidden?

                    My fabulous web page

                    "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by squirrel View Post
                      the question is, will the leaks be hidden?
                      Haha, I actually plan on pressure testing it. Looking to pickup a 1.5" rubber stopper next time I'm at Ace Hardware. Drill a hole in the stopper, soap it down, and add a shot of air. I may not get all the leaks sealed, but I should be able to make sure there aren't any big ones. Then there is of course always exhaust manifold paste!
                      Escaped on a technicality.

                      Comment


                      • Would filling it with water be a good idea to check leaks?
                        http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                        1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                        PB 60' 1.49
                        ​​​​​​

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Russell View Post
                          Would filling it with water be a good idea to check leaks?
                          Rubbing alcohol...

                          Comment


                          • Air with soap and water will do. I bought a stopper, just need to test it. May do that today. I have exhaust putty on hand!

                            Finally got the transmission in and driving. Had some electrical issues when my ground wire pulled out of a connector unbeknownst to me, but got that sorted. I didn't initially believe the line pressure being read by the sensor because it was so high, excess of 250psi, but put a mechanical gauge on it and it confirmed.

                            The way it works is the Microsquirt transmission computer commands the pressure relief valve to open or close a certain amount, but does not directly command a pressure. So a sensor is needed to see how much pressure it's making at a given opening. Fortunately there is plenty of control on it and I am easily able to bring it down to 90psi in neutral, 150psi under normal driving conditions and 200psi at WOT. This is good for the transmission, transmission pump and for the engine thrust bearing surface.

                            I have not foot braked the converter, but locking it in high gear and hitting the throttle puts the rpm right at 2,700rpm while the car continues to accelerate. It really does not start moving the car until about 1,500rpm, which is a new experience to me. Fortunately it's a lockup style converter so shouldn't have any issues slipping in the long run. I can lock it up in 2nd gear at low loads. I have a terrible video of going for a test drive at 10:00pm, but photobucket is taking its sweet time loading it up.

                            I'm using a ~2005 4L60e and its longer than the 200-4r I removed by about 3". This is the second time I've cut the driveshaft and welded it back together, lol. However this time, the shortened driveshaft just has to get me by until I put a 9" rear axle in then the new driveshaft on the left will go in.


                            Using LS transmissions on old engines is tricky. I read in a few places that I needed a .400" thick spacer, but when I put it together the torque converter was bottomed in the transmission and buried in the crankshaft. I determined I needed a ~.625" (5/8") spacer to pull the torque converter off the transmission by about 1/8". Fortunately Summit sells BOP adapter plates that are 5/16" thick, so I bought two and had one water jetted to clear the flywheel.Then every thing lined up.


                            I used the same dipstick and tube as I had on the 200-4r, but moved the mounting tab down to account for the different location of the dipstick hole, as well as marked the dipstick for the proper "full" level.


                            Bought the longest dowels I could too. The deep skirt nature of the OHC L6 puts the starter in a lower position than most GM engines, so I had to trim the bellhousing to clear the starter nose cone.




                            Started back on the exhaust plumbing. Short of going all the way back past the transmission then front again the cross over pipes were going to hang low. So I went under the oil pan for the time being. I bought a few sets of flanges so I can unbolt the cross over, but summit was one flange short for how many I needed so I am waiting for the last flange to come in to finish up the pipes and welding. Then I'll have to plumb in the wastegate. Going to put it on the passenger side and will likely dump right into the down pipe.




                            Escaped on a technicality.

                            Comment


                            • With the pipes running under the pan like that have you considered external oil filter/cooler to keep its temps down?
                              If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

                              Comment


                              • If you really want to get fancy, once the header is assembled, you could ceramic coat it. Does a shockingly good job at keeping heat inside the pipe and away from nearby things that don't want the extra heat.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X