Caveman's 'Anti-Rescue' rig '74 4x4

[Caveman Tony]

I
am
a
moron.

[DanStokes]

As long as you're more on than off. Is a moreoff worse?

Dan

[milner351]

better than an oxy-moron I suppose

[DanStokes]

Or oxy-contin. Hate that stuff.

CRASH, TINKLE TINKLE, CRUNCH!!!!! (The sound of the train coming completely off the track).

Hey Tony - it's OK and can be fixed.

Dan

[Russell]

Should it have been the other mark to the left?

[SuperBuickGuy]

Should it have been the other mark to the left?

whew, I was concerned I wasn't the only one who didn't get the issue.... those marks are 4* adv/center/4* retarded - other than changing where the powerband occurs.... not sure why it would make your more or less retarded

[Russell]

I got it! when it is 0* the key should be to the right so its way more than 4*

[SuperBuickGuy]

I always have to look it up when I'm doing a motor, but IIRC, retarding the motor moves the powerband up, advancing moves it down (in rpm). Honestly, I've yet to own a car where it made any real difference - mostly because fuel quality on a street car can affect the hp output more than advance, center, or retard ever does

[Caveman Tony]

Having installed my cam with the 'dots' lined up, I FAILED to get enough sleep the night before, FAILED to drink some caffeine, FAILED to see that I wasn't supposed to line up the "keyway" dot, but the 'outer' dot on the perimeter of the crank gear.

Therefore, this cam was installed INCREDIBLY reTAHTED, which pretty much proves that I am too.



This, folks.... is why we degree a cam.




Upon removing the balancer, I immediately realized my mistake, pulled off the timing chain, and put it back on in the correct alignment.

And whuddyaknow.... it degreed-in perfectly, right on the numbers this time.

DUH.

[Huskinhano]

At first I couldn't see what the problem was, it looked fine. Looking at it again I see what the problem....or isn't. Stock type timing chain gears retard the can by like 4*, that's what you're looking at. Match it up to a multi keyed sprocket, you'll see that.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Having installed my cam with the 'dots' lined up, I FAILED to get enough sleep the night before, FAILED to drink some caffeine, FAILED to see that I wasn't supposed to line up the "keyway" dot, but the 'outer' dot on the perimeter of the crank gear.

Therefore, this cam was installed INCREDIBLY reTAHTED, which pretty much proves that I am too.



This, folks.... is why we degree a cam.




Upon removing the balancer, I immediately realized my mistake, pulled off the timing chain, and put it back on in the correct alignment.

And whuddyaknow.... it degreed-in perfectly, right on the numbers this time.

DUH.

meh... I've done worse

[Caveman Tony]

So, progress is moving (albeit slowwwwly) on the truck...

The Beeg Block is getting closer. I've been putting in an hour or 2 every other weekend when I drive up to Mass. This commuting sucks... I need a job in MA. NJ = not my cup of tea, no offense Spiff, Spidey, et al...

Although, you guys do have a kick-ass swap meet at E-town twice a year.

Scored an Edelbrock aluminum intake there for $85. Thought it was a SCREAMIN' deal, right up until I noticed a couple little things..

This:



Someone drilled out and heli-coiled three of the carb studs... except they effed-up the angle on one. Bad enough so that I couldn't even get the carb to go down over the stud. UGH.

[SuperBuickGuy]

can a thick, heat spacer gasket or a 1" spacer cure the issue?

[Caveman Tony]

And as is often the case, the simplest solution is the best.

Problem solved.



Just move the dang stud to the other hole.


Two people pointed that out to me, nearly simultaneously... They both pointed to the other hole, and started to say "Hey, why don't you just..." and I smacked myself in the forehead. DUH. Luckily the carb has corresponding holes for different base intakes. Still need to put some sealant down the old hole, as the doofus with the drill also went a bit too deep.... like right into the runner. Also DUH...

On the motah... long block is done.. need to put on the oil pump, timing cover, oil pan, rear main seal, get lifters/pushrods/rockers, etc, and drop on the intake. Then its test time. My ole man wants to run it on the stand, not a bad idea, but we'll need some bracing and will also have to figure out how to get the flywheel on while its still on the stand.

And can anyone recommend a good way to truly 'steam clean' the gunk off the engine bay? It's naaaaassty...

[DanStokes]

I've tried to either rent or hire someone to actually steam clean (NOT pressure wash) the S-10 engine bay and the M-B Diesel. No luck. Seems steam cleaners are a thing of the past. I was FINALLY able to get the engine decent with repeated applications of Gunk and a wire brush and the pressure washer. Guess I'll have to do more of that to the engine bay - I've already done it several times.

At EPA we had a Clayton steam cleaner - looked like a small locomotive. It took a while to get up a head of steam but once it was going it really kicked butt. Sometimes we'd get a test car or engine that was a bit grubby and that was the tool of choice for takin' care of business.

Seems like in Mass there would be some old-fashioned shop somewhere that still has a REAL Steam Jenny.

Dan