Mutt The Race Truck

[milner351]

Dan - it all depends on the ambient temps - I would say you'd probably be safe to get the shop good and warm, then shut off the furnace and spray, then let the mist settle for a while before firing up the furnace again.

I will also say that with a GOOD quality brush and equipment enamel, you can get a pretty darned good finish, but it sure takes a while.
A friends compressor died on him and he decided he was going to brush paint gray tractor enamel on his engine compartment and move ahead with installing his engine instead of waiting to get the compressor fixed - the only way you could tell that job was done with a brush was if you were under the car and could see where the brush strokes stopped in the transmission tunnel - but - it was summer time when he did it so it was plenty warm for the paint to flow out and level. He also used a $30 colibri house painting trim brush - as with everything - the right tool makes a world of difference!

[DanStokes]

The Rustoleum mist that will settle is still tacky and sticks to pretty much whatever it touches. I had that experience years ago and have no desire to repeat it! My first Snap-On tool box had a black overtone for years until I replaced it. I'm guessing it STILL has black overtones - if you see a mid-size Snap-On box with a full Buick Tri-Shield and the circle around it, that's it. Might turn up at a garage sale in John's neck of the woods.

I think a decent bristle application system is for sure the way to go. And the light gray hides a lot of sins, too.

Dan

[Beagle]

the good news is - the gray will show oil leaks. The bad news is - the gray will show oil leaks. It'll look fine, nobody is gonna notice the paint color , they're gonna notice the five oil lines and lack of distributor.

[DanStokes]

And RACK, RACK, RACK!

Got something done - or at least started - today. Chopping up the tunnel! After looking at it I decided that the only mod really needed was to make room for the front of the bellhousing/scattershield so I could just sort of notch the whole deal and be OK. The tricky part of it will be remounting the accelerator pedal.

First shot is the tunnel as it was (sorta). I had started cutting when I realized that I hadn't taken a "before" pic.

Second shot is slot cut and the tunnel bent upward. The slanting part of the tunnel will make the top of the altered area.

Third shot is the interior with the cut and bend in place. You can see that the accelerator area is gone (for now).

Fourth shot is my cardboard template and the sheetmetal blank to be welded in. I decided to make the repair in at least 2 pieces so I just used half the template for now. Things were wiggling too much to decide how the whole deal was going to fit until I got some structure back into it.

Fifth shot is the first piece welded in. I'll figure out the accelerator pedal thing as I go (I do a lot of stuff that way). I may need a pedal with a different mounting system.

Dan

[DanStokes]

Got a bit more done today but I ran out of cut-off wheels for the 4 1/2" grinder so it's off to Harbor Freight in a few minutes. Enough fabrication for tonight, though.

The first shot is the hole in the frame for the plate that the rubber biscuit will bolt to.
Second shot is the plate (a big honkin' hunk of angle trimmed to fit) tacked into place. The big welder seems to like this stuff! I had this stock and it's thick enough that I can just tap it for the mount bolts and I won't have to fumble with nuts.


After I get the other side cut and tacked in I'll test fit again and mark the spots for the biscuit mounting holes. I also need to brace the angle stock with a couple of triangles to keep the whole deal from rotating.

Looks like the tunnel mods will work well though I need to pull the shifter as it's getting in the way. I may have to make a lump to mount the Benz shifter in there as I doubt the quadrant in the B&M will work with the Borg Warner trans.

Dan

[silver_bullet]

Yer Gettin' there!!

[rack4u]

Dan
Looking good !

That motor mount looks allot like a mezzanine 90 degree tab ........

[DanStokes]

Exactly! BTW David - got a guy here in Wilmington who would like a hunk of mezz like mine. Got any lying around?

Dan

[Bob Holmes]

Dan, you should box that and then weld the tab.

I know you have a plan to put the strength back in the framerail, so maybe I should just wait and see.

[rack4u]

Exactly! BTW David - got a guy here in Wilmington who would like a hunk of mezz like mine. Got any lying around?

Dan

Hi,
Sorry not at the moment but things change quickly. I will let you know.

PARTS IS PARTS

I am excited about your build !!

[rack4u]

Dan, you should box that and then weld the tab.

I know you have a plan to put the strength back in the framerail, so maybe I should just wait and see.

I agree, or put a a heavy plate as a cap overlapping both sides at the top and a gusset down to your mount depending on clearance.

[DanStokes]

Dan, you should box that and then weld the tab.

I know you have a plan to put the strength back in the framerail, so maybe I should just wait and see.

Oh, it'll be stout! I HATE flimsey stuff and overbuild everything. Remember, weight doesn't count in LSR.

BTW - I got the driver's side mount pad in place today and started welding it in. I dropped the engine in and it looks pretty good. It's almost flat front to back but a little lower on the passenger's side. Probably doesn't matter much but I can fix it easily and will on the next engine removal. There's a spacer between the rubber mount and the engine mount and I'll just cut one a little longer for that side - easy-peasy. More pics tomorrow.

Dan

[DanStokes]

And David - Where's your update on the Avanti!!?? (Challenge). Love to see pics as it comes along.

Dan

[Monk]

Got a bit more done today but I ran out of cut-off wheels for the 4 1/2" grinder so it's off to Harbor Freight in a few minutes. Enough fabrication for tonight, though.

The first shot is the hole in the frame for the plate that the rubber biscuit will bolt to.
Second shot is the plate (a big honkin' hunk of angle trimmed to fit) tacked into place. The big welder seems to like this stuff! I had this stock and it's thick enough that I can just tap it for the mount bolts and I won't have to fumble with nuts.


After I get the other side cut and tacked in I'll test fit again and mark the spots for the biscuit mounting holes. I also need to brace the angle stock with a couple of triangles to keep the whole deal from rotating.

Looks like the tunnel mods will work well though I need to pull the shifter as it's getting in the way. I may have to make a lump to mount the Benz shifter in there as I doubt the quadrant in the B&M will work with the Borg Warner trans.

Dan

Progress .....looking good

[DanStokes]

Got the mounts all welded in today. Somehow I lost my mounting hole markings for the rubber biscuits so I'll have to put the engine back in tomorrow and remark - will that be "remarkable"?

Here's the pics -

First is the passenger side from the bottom. Having the hoist makes everything easier, including picture taking.

Second is the driver's side bottom. It was tough welding in there as there wasn't quite enough room for me and the welding helmet. Probably should have removed the sway bar but I didn't think of that until I was almost done. Notice that there is a triangle from the rear of the mount to the old engine cradle. This was as close to supporting the center part of the mount as I could get as it's sort of hanging off the frame. I think it'll be PLENTY stout.

Third is the passenger side top. Needs wire brushing! Notice that I welded plugs in the formerly open spots in the frame where I cut in as shown in the last set of pics.

Fourth is the driver's side top view.

Fifth is an overview of the engine bay with these welded in.

It's fun eating this elephant!

Dan