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Mutt The Race Truck

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  • #31
    Runaway diesel gate valves.



    Interesting read of a few horror stories, one unfortunate sole got his hand sucked into a runaway intake.



    Another aftermarket valve




    Be careful Dan, diesels can be weird creatures when hopped up. Lots of fun, but weird.
    Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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    • #32
      Dan - if it's a "suck to stop" Lord that sounds awful...
      anyway

      just hook up the vacuum pump to turn on when you want the engine to shut off, put it on a momentary on switch.

      Flip on and hold until diesel shuts down... then release.... done and done, simple, and all vac lines stay under hood.

      Does this one have the manual priming lever? thought that was a cool feature - very handy if you ever run it out of fuel!
      There's always something new to learn.

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      • #33
        My 4BT had a manual priming lever......just had to manually prime, crack the lines open at the injectors, crank until it fires, then tighten the lines after its running. NO way it would even try to start until those lines were cracked open.
        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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        • #34
          Someday I will have a 4BT in something really cool - like a cruiser wagon, or a cracker box bronco.
          There's always something new to learn.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by milner351 View Post
            Someday I will have a 4BT in something really cool - like a cruiser wagon, or a cracker box bronco.
            I'm still learning

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            • #36
              Them 4BTs are HEAVY! But cool. There's one that runs at Bonneville - I think it's in a streamliner - maybe the Swamp Witch car. I remember several of the Diesel cars/trucks but I can't for sure retain which engine was in which car.

              John - I like the idea but I not sure how the battery kill switch would activate it. So far the best idea seems to be a vacuum can and a normally open solenoid valve - kill power to the solenoid and the vacuum is applied to the shut off. Leave it to M-B to make the easy hard!

              Dan
              Last edited by DanStokes; December 20, 2012, 10:29 AM.

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              • #37
                or a pushrod to a ball valve that shuts down fuel flow - but the rule is you have to have a single point of shut off at the rear of the car?
                There's always something new to learn.

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                • #38
                  Exactly. The concept is that if the safety crew gets to the scene a flip of the switch has to disable everything and shut off the car - from the rear. Pretty sure NHRA is the same. We occasionally get cars that have run in sports car venues and they have the shut offs on the rear panel just ahead of the trunk or even on the cowl.

                  I think the LSR folks want to keep the safety crew as far from the scene of the action as possible, with the assumption that a fire would most likely happen in the general area of the engine bay (it's where the hot stuff is). Fire supression is either discharged by the driver or automatically - I'm kind of surprised that there isn't a rear fire system discharge as well.

                  Dan
                  Last edited by DanStokes; December 20, 2012, 10:51 AM.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                    Exactly. The concept is that if the safety crew gets to the scene a flip of the switch has to disable everything and shut off the car - from the rear. Pretty sure NHRA is the same. We occasionally get cars that have run in sports car venues and they have the shut offs on the rear panel just ahead of the trunk or even on the cowl.

                    I think the LSR folks want to keep the safety crew as far from the scene of the action as possible, with the assumption that a fire would most likely happen in the general area of the engine bay (it's where the hot stuff is). Fire supression is either discharged by the driver or automatically - I'm kind of surprised that there isn't a rear fire system discharge as well.

                    Dan
                    maybe convert an electronic throttle to open with the switch on, and close with the power off - no air = no runaway
                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                    • #40
                      Sweet project Dan, looking forward to watching it develop for you. Good skill!

                      Gene
                      The official Bangshift garage door guru. Just about anything can be built using garage door parts, trust me.

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                      • #41
                        Thanks Gene! The skill, however, has yet to be proven. I did a preliminary test fit today and it looks like it'll fit OK. I have to remove the frame mounted Chevy motor mounts and take more stuff off the engine (oil cooler lines, etc. but it looks like it'll settle in OK. The M-B has a front sump but it looks like the sump will sit ahead of the cross member with the shallower part of the pan clearing the cross member. Probably won't be able to pull the pan with the engine in the car but that's not an issue from my perspective.

                        Interesting that the Borg-Warner trans is quite a bit smaller than the TH350 that was in there. I'm in the process of welding up a flywheel shield and adding a trans blanket to be compliant with the rules and even with an external shield it will still fit better than the TH. (pics to follow). Probably going to have to use the M-B shifter, which I saved. The trans guy who did my Dodge has offered to swing by and help me figure out what I need to make it work (wiring, vacuum supply, etc.). He's familiar with this trans.

                        Has anyone used Zolotone as an engine bay finish? Thinking of trying that. I still have lots of cleaning to do, mounts to make, etc. before I do any painting.

                        Um - Gene....... Do you think we can make a tonneau (with holes for the rollbar down pipes) out of garage doors?

                        I'll take pics tomorrow after I prep the bay and the engine a bit more. Hopefully it will sit where it goes then.

                        Dan
                        Last edited by DanStokes; December 20, 2012, 06:25 PM.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                          I'm guessing Tardis can chime in with knowledge on the brakes Dan - surely the low option early S-10 four bangers were available with manual brakes?
                          Yup, Dan IM'd, here's what I know..

                          For S-10 manual brake parts I look up 82 S-10 w/1.9 motor.

                          The interchange says S-10 manual brake masters fit:
                          CABALLERO/EL CAMINO 82
                          S10/S15 PICKUP 82-88
                          PARISIENNE 82

                          I searched wreckers in your area for manual brake S-10's.

                          Jacob's Auto Parts in Council is showing an 84.



                          Deals On Wheels Raleigh is showing an 87.




                          Rock Auto has 1 master in stock on close-out for $16, non-stock price is $77 grab it before it's gone!
                          Here's the latest discount code.. 2794E541593B

                          RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.



                          If you want 12" rotors & regular spindles use 77-90 B body spindles w/90 Camaro LE1 rotors.<---best choice for heavy diesel engine, strong serviceable spindles!

                          LE1 Rotors..

                          RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.


                          Another option is 98-05 4dr 2wd Blazer, Bravada, Jimmy knuckles w/ 11" rotors, dual piston calipers & throw away hubs. I'm using this set-up with a 'ST' dual diaphragm booster.

                          4dr 2wd & 2 & 4dr 4wd Blazers, Bravada's, Jimmy's use the same parts..

                          RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.


                          Hope that helps Dan, let me know if you need more info.

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                          • #43
                            THANKS! I'll get right on the Rock Auto deal (have 'em bookmarked - they're a go-to for me).

                            Any clue on the pushrod? Maybe just a trip to the salvage yard. I'll call them.

                            The S-10 already has discs so I'll go with them for now. I doubt I'll need more stopping power but if I do I now know how to do it.

                            Dan

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                              Any clue on the pushrod? Maybe just a trip to the salvage yard. I'll call them.

                              Dan
                              Yeah, call the wreckers I have listed, they're showing to have manual brake S-10's..

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                              • #45
                                Hit a snag. The oil pan is two piece deal with an aluminum main section and a blot-on stamped steel front sump. I'm guessing the sump houses the pickup - I lent a friend a my M-B manual so I'm not sure quite what's in that sump. The front of the sump hits the sway bar and the rear is going to hit the steering linkage if I can get the engine to drop down a tad where I want it. All in all, I'd like the engine down about 2" and I think I can gain that with some pan surgery.

                                Any reason I can't space the sway bar down a bit - say, 1"? That would help.

                                I'll pull the sump tomorrow and see if I can take a corner off each end. I'm thinking I could weld in quarter of a piece of exhaust tubing and end up with good clearance.

                                So no trial fitting pics today as I just found out what needs accommodated. Maybe tomorrow. I feel like this may be the hard part.

                                Dan

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