Mutt The Race Truck

[Russell]

Do you need a sway bar? I have seen sway bars spaced on mustangs when building a turbo kit.

[tardis454]

Any reason I can't space the sway bar down a bit - say, 1"? That would help.

Dan

Sure, use spacer blocks & longer saddle bolts & shorten the link pins.
I'd use a 33mm (1.300") ZQ8 bar, it's the thickest factory bar GM made for S-10's.
Those are found on 2wd 4dr 98-05 Blazer's, Bravada's & Jimmy's, & 2wd SS & extreme trucks.
They're cheap too, got mine for $25 with the saddle brackets/bushings.

[DanStokes]

I don't need to go around corners fast but I would like stability at speed on the track. I think I'll try a 1" spacer to start and see where that takes me. The bigger bar is just going to be that much more in the way. But thanks for the ideas.

Dan

[tardis454]

I don't need to go around corners fast but I would like stability at speed on the track. I think I'll try a 1" spacer to start and see where that takes me. The bigger bar is just going to be that much more in the way. But thanks for the ideas.

Dan

I figured since you're putting a big heavy diesel between the rails you'd want to keep the front end planted on the ground...

[silver_bullet]

Dropping the swaybar should not cause an issue as long as the end link length is adjusted as well... works well to use an aftermarket universal kit...that way you dont have binding issues..

[DanStokes]

I'm not sure that the Diesel is any heavier than the SBC was. I tried to find a scale I could put on the cherry picker to weigh it but no luck - in my price range. The M-B Diesel is a car engine so I think they made some effort to keep the weight down. Maybe I can find that on line - back in a minute........

OK - I'm back. No real authoritative answers but it looks like 800 to 850 lbs with the SBC coming in at 575 or so. The one that came out had no aluminum heads or intake, IIRC. So I'll be up about 225 lbs or so. But I've deleted the AC, PS, and other unnecessary stuff so I'm thinking it's a bit lighter. The front will sit lower but that's a GOOD thing for LSR. I'm also working to remove as much lard from the front end as possible so I'm not sure how the whole deal will end up.

Dan

[DanStokes]

I just did a fairly extensive on-line search for oil pan mods. Several builders talked about it being an issue but no pics. Guess I'm on my own. I do think the lowering the sway bar and contouring the pan a bit will get 'er done.

I think I'll make my own end links for the lowered sway bar. Seems pretty straightforward and the ones I found (Hellwig) were pricey and way more complex than I need. I think I can just make the tubes shorter by 2" and find a bolt with 2" less shank length (unthreaded portion). Can't be all that tough. The spacers for the bar mounts can just be a couple of pieces of 2" square tubing, which I have.

I'm staying clean today as ME has a party this afternoon for me to attend. Back at it tomorrow.

Dan

[Beagle]

end links on GM's were nothing beyond long bolts. Figure it out with all thread, then get your grade 5 or grade 8 stuff, cut the tubes with a tubing cutter, be on your way. You won't affect angle/effort too much I don't think, since you're not really changing the lever, just where it mounts. Maybe some 5/4 decking boards for a starting point if the 2" is too much?

The shutoff for air intake makes gooooood sense.

850 wouldn't surpise me, I think a 4BT is 920 with turbo. Can you modify the flywheel and move it back? You'll wind up adding weight to the rear anyway if it doesn't have it already I bet. They're butt happy with the 4.3 around 125-130, whole truck starts feeling light.

[DanStokes]

I'm hoping I can make a 2" drop work as that's about what I need. The end link kits are only about $5 at the local AutoAdvance so I'll scoop some up tomorrow, then to the good local hardware for the 2" shorter bolts - should be a POC (that's "piece of cake"). Hoping I can lower the bar with the engine sitting in place so I can decide what else is in the way without another in-n-out. Pretty doable with the engine tilter but still a chore worth keeping to a minimum. I've kept the trans and engine connected as that helps determine how the whole deal will fit but it takes some angleing to get it in the hole.

Dan

[silver_bullet]

sounds like a great plan!!

[Barry Donovan]

Yes.

But seriously, it's built into the pump body - no lift pump. I'm thinking of putting a small fuel cell on the core support although there is one in the bed. Shorter lines, less to mess up. I don't think fuel temp will be much of an issue but I'll have to cross that bridge if and when I get to it.

As built, the stock shut off is a typical case of MB over-engineering. There's a vacuum shut off system built into the pump that's activated when you switch the key to off. There's actually a vacuum switch in the key assembly. I'll need to make it normally off then either sucked to "run" by vacuum or some such. The main issue is that the engine needs to stop running when the safety crew switches the battery off. I'll puzzle it out.

Dan

wow. subscribed.

the tank for the truck will also get you out of an age old problem with the mercedes..that stupid screen.


Go electric pump, and a relief to stop fuel or switch immediately. that is a strange setup they got there..

kent bergsma and other places have vids on you tube, and tools special made for the mb diesel.

[Beagle]

If you've already done the trans shield, can you disconnect the transmission and just bolt the shield up, since it's gonna be the biggest thing down there? Are you using a chain falls or a cherry picker? I'd figure out how to get that trans off cuz I suspect it's gonna be in and out of there a few times.

How about a run-in stand for it? Make sure all the junk works right before you get it into the pretty tight confines of a S10 engine compartment?

I am pretty stoked (haha) about this project...

[Monk]

I'm hoping I can make a 2" drop work as that's about what I need. The end link kits are only about $5 at the local AutoAdvance so I'll scoop some up tomorrow, then to the good local hardware for the 2" shorter bolts - should be a POC (that's "piece of cake"). Hoping I can lower the bar with the engine sitting in place so I can decide what else is in the way without another in-n-out. Pretty doable with the engine tilter but still a chore worth keeping to a minimum. I've kept the trans and engine connected as that helps determine how the whole deal will fit but it takes some angleing to get it in the hole.

Dan

Oil pan mods are usually an easy fix.
Seems we were always cutting 'em up back in the day.

[DanStokes]

Beags - still working out the shield. It's OK to slide it in and out, just a bit of a chore. If I leave them together I'll know how they REALLY fit so no surprises when I do it for real. If I had a spare trans I'd make it a hollow shell for fitment - but I don't.

Dan

[rack4u]

Dan,
I am digging the truck !! Just set the engine back like in the "Stude" and you will not have any worries about where the oil pan sets....You might end up with a 4" drive shaft LOL