Mutt The Race Truck

[SuperBuickGuy]

I have no problem with USEFUL bling but no jewelry for the sake of jewelry. I hope that's what I have there.

Dan

I dunno, a lift, some 32" wheels and you'll be illin'

[Beagle]

any smoke on the fender yet? Huh? Huh? Huh?

[DanStokes]

I keep sweeping the pieces into a pile. I HOPE to get it over to Coastal Plains some time this Fall for some shakedown runs. You going to come for the initial runs? Glad to have you.

Dan

[DanStokes]

Our internet connection has been dead for several days (something to do with Time-Warner) but it's up right now so I'll post quickly while I have a chance.

I FINALLY got the accelerator linkage to where it works and I'm happy with it. I redid the cable mount 3 times and decided on the Heim joint solution as shown.


Here's the pedal as mounted in the cockpit. Since this pic I've raised the pedal a bit - everything is adjustable on this jewel. Note the bracing on the cable mount.



Dumb little thing - but it took me 50+ years of messing with cars to think of this. How many times have you gone looking for a missing E-clip? Just tape it near where you'll need it!



One view on the underhood stuff. This shows the Heim joint nicely. I know I'm not the first guy to think of this but I'm glad I did.



A different angle that shows the bell crank better. That was from some of the old Benz bits I have lying around from the 240D and the 300SD - glad I saved some of this stuff.



I like the way this came out - FINALLY!


Dan

[Deaf Bob]

Makin SMOKE yet

[DanStokes]

Not yet but I keep getting closer. I think the radiator will be next!

Dan

[DanStokes]

Chugging away on the radiator. It's in and hoses are in. A trip to the local Advance netted 2 hoses of unknown origin that I was able to make fit pretty well. As always, here comes the pics: Harder to get pics of stuff as I add more to the set-up. Hopefully here's a couple of the lower hose. I have a real mash-up of hose sizes but a little squeezing here and stretching there and they're on.

EDIT: Whoo-hoo! I found out what the hoses are and I'm documenting it in case I need a new one someday. The upper is a Dayco 71696 which is an upper for a 93-96 Camaro V6. The lower is a Dayco 72372 which is from a Dodge Ram 1500 (I didn't find the displacement nor location).

Lower hose pics.



Top hose. That's a support bracket in the GM blue. I'll go to PnP tomorrow for an old floormat so I can line that with rubber.



The hose in the support.



Radiator as it sits in the truck. The radiator shop said that's a C-series radiator. Hopefully Terry will sign on and tell us for sure.



I think there's adequate fan room. I have 1 electric that was on the truck and another from the M-B - I'll have to decide. Or maybe an HHR fan?




No coolant yet (it'll be water). I'm almost afraid to add any and find out where the leaks are! But I guess it's important.


Dan

[Beagle]

Did you leave room for the second turbo, the intercooler, and funds for a big ol Myna pump?

Go Dan Go!

[DanStokes]

IF I did a further turbo upgrade it would be a bigger single. Remember that I have time for spool-up and given that we're not allowed a burn-out having less power at the line is actually a good thing. But I'm only stuffing 3 liters so how much do you need?

Yes, I have a spot picked out for the intercooler. I'n torn between putting the ice water tank in the passenger side footwell or in the bed. If I put it in the bed I won't have to worry if I spill a little when I drain it.

What the heck is a Myna pump? Now I have another Google search.......

I think I'll add water today after I figure out a valve for the block drain - one of the best things I did on the Camaro. Ball valves are GOOD!

Dan

[DanStokes]

OK - a couple of posts on a couple of diverse topics: First, a bit more on the cooling system.

Here's pics:

Upper hose with the unneeded wiggle removed. You can probably tell that I just added a 1 1/4" plumbing-style connector. I also had a hunk of bigger hose that I slit and wrapped around that section of hose so it wouldn't chafe on the support - all done.



Then the block drain. Two push on connectors with a 45* at the block to steer it away from the turbo which is right above it. The hose is heat-resistant but I'll probably add an aluminum heat shield just to protect it. We run pure water so it has to be drained any time the temp gets cold so access is a good thing. If you squint you can see the ball valve handle right at the inner fenderwell.



Dan

[DanStokes]

And then: I started the bodywork. You didn't think I'd leave it like that, did you??!! (I hate patina).

I'm now officially in love with stud guns (no comments from the peanut gallery). I borrowed this from my friend Zack who works for my friend Dave at the nearby shop. Anyhow, Zach has bodywork training and has done some professionally so he has some nifty tools and this is one of 'em. I have the similar dent in the passenger side all pulled and in filler and the one in the pic, though bigger, is almost there. I don't think I have as much as 45 minutes in this - both sides. I had to stop as ME needed me so I'll take it up tomorrow.



Groovy, huh?!! This is the studs welded in place and since this pic much of it is pulled. Turns out that the damage area is bigger than I thought so I have a bit more grinding tomorrow.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

I hate to tell you how to use your stud..... gun, but did you consider just using the heat tip down the center of the low point then cooling it with air? I like my stud.... gun, but I swear it's most useful part is the hot foot (looks like a small, round hammer that goes into the end of the stud gun.) You've forgotten more about body work than I'll ever know, but perhaps the hot foot leaked out with the other unneeded stuff?

[DanStokes]

I don't think Zach has that accessory - but he might. That's NOT a HF gun but I suspect the one that they reverse-engineered from - it's even the same color! Anyhow, those dinks are pretty deep and while the shrink method might help I think it needs pullin'. I'm not sure how those got there but they were driving me nuts! (I know, that's not a drive just a short putt.....). So far the pulling technique has worked GREAT for these particular dents. Metal shrinking can be very helpful sometimes, too. I'm guessing Deaf Bob has no idea why someone would be removing surface dents.

Once upon a time I metal-shrunk the whole front end of my bros 1970 VW van - they had hit something square on with the nose and it was stretched everywhere but straight. I used a torch, dolly and hammer, and a wet rag which is the traditional technique. It worked but took a while. Probably would have been faster to replace the panel but we had the torch and didn't have a new panel so we went with cheap.

Dan

[Deaf Bob]

No, if you look at the rear of the derby car in those pics I sent, you will notice a crease we added to make it stronger.. Pullin dents makes metal weak..

[Deaf Bob]

In the back past the rear wheel well..