See? You can teach an old dog new tricks, as long as your using old stuff he's somewhat familiar with.
For a while this ol' dog was chasing his tail! But the young guy (well, he sounded young on the phone) took me by the virtual hand and led me thru the process. Actually I was doing it correctly but I didn't see the correct "inst" input (one of the prompts that comes on the screen) as one of the possibilities. It's the one that tells the readout what kind of sensor to look for. Easy once you know the code.
Canceled the room and left a note to cancel the registration though I suppose they've already done that. ME was worried about Covid and is just as happy that it fell thru though I am, of course, disappointed.
This does, however, leave more time to polish the turd that I call Mutt. Having had turbo plumbing blow apart under pressure on dyno engines I decided to use one of the tricks we used to keep the tubing connected. While a bead is a great way we found that a few beads of weld were adequate to prevent the tubes from blowing apart. Given that these are only 2" in diameter 3 beads per joint should be adequate. So here's the pic:
I tried a different welder for this and he seemed to do a great job. He charged me for a half hour which I think was fair. As planned, I reworked the beads slightly - if you look at the angled piece you'll see that the beads are somewhat more refined.
It's all reassembled now and the beads are past the clamps such that the tubes can't blow out of the connections. This ought to work (says I 'till I have to eat my words).
And the new turbo seems to be ready to go. I insulated the cool air return tube so it won't heat up from passing ober the turbo. I also have a turbo blanket on order so that should help, too. It's possible that the turbine side might get red hot so anything to contron the heat should help both in spinning the turbo batter and in controlling the heat.
Pic of the insulation: I used my high temp electrical tape trick to contain the header wrap. Also note that the inner fender well got a new coat of Rustoleum industrial gray.
Last edited by DanStokes; June 24, 2020, 05:33 PM.
Can't. His name is "Truck". Always has been since I've had him.
I have the outer piece of the old cage out. Lots of cutting with lots more to come but it's a start. I bought a fire blanket at Harbor Freight and it seems to be doing the job. It's big enough to double over and I was able to attach it pretty firmly so I'm going to go with it. The worst thig that can happen is I need a new windshield so we'll see how it goes.
More to come........
Last edited by DanStokes; June 25, 2020, 05:13 PM.
I cut the dash bar loose from the upper down tube and started fitting the new lower part down to the floor. Here the replacement tube is in place and slid into the sleeve that will reinforce the joint between the top and bottom. I was able to keep it as wide as possible to increase foot room which is at a premium.
Close up of the joint where the upper and lower and the dash bar come together. The dash bar actually fits better than it looks like in this pic and I'll pull it rearward when I weld it. The shiny edge of metal you see to the right of the sleeve is just a brace that holds the dash in place - I'll weld it in place.
And finally, the seat braces are cut out. I have a nifty idea to facilitate adjustment though as small as an S-10 cab is it'll be limited. Note that the shoulder bar is cut, tto. It'll get a sleeve and a curved bar to allow rearward positioning of the seat. I'll gain about 3-3.5" which is a lot in this little cab.
Last edited by DanStokes; June 26, 2020, 05:25 PM.
First tube is in place. I welded the base of the tube to the floor plate so I could continue with the fabrication but I plan to get a real weldor to weld up the rest. I'm just so good at welding and my safety hangs on this. Interesting that the built-in spell checker doesn't recognize "weldor".
Anyhow, this is the down pipe in place. I also painted the part that would be inaccessible once the final welding is complete. Note the 4 3/8" grade 8 bolts holding the plate in place - the bottom bolts thru the flange of the front cab mount so it ought to be plenty strong. I might make a plate to go on the bottom just to overkill the whole thing.
Also note that the upper sleeve is now sporting 4 rosette weld holes. After I spoke with a Bonneville official and long time racer he suggested that rosette welds were also needed to prove that everything is properly welded together. The rosettes are in addition to welds around the circumference.
I have the shoulder bar bent but it needs a bit more fitting tomorrow before I can declare it ready for the weldor whoever that may be.
Last edited by DanStokes; June 27, 2020, 07:30 PM.