55 Wagon Progress

[MP&C]

Next step for the console, we need to cut some holes for the shifter. Using the Chevelle style horseshoe shifter, we don't have the factory style brush seals or trim bezel for the center plexi indicator. So lets see what we can come up with first to seal the shifters side arms. I didn't have any brush stock left over from the splice trailer, and window felt wasn't thick enough. But I did have some bulb seal that looked promising. To make a surround to hold the bulb seal, we used a folded piece of 16 gauge stainless, and put an offset to hide as much of the edge trim that holds the seal as possible.











To close off the ends, we used the linear stretch dies in the Lennox...

https://youtube.com/shorts/cD1TrEwah2o?si=_1kBU5isw7LFb_dK

https://youtube.com/shorts/--rTDf9M2Bk?si=Xt5Dk3opzAYzdQtD

After welding the one end in place, the console was mocked up to get the overall length needed on the shifter seal.

https://youtube.com/shorts/N9mJWH6Rjfg?si=7_w6PBdNXo32kGPq

The top flanges will be trimmed to the same width as our polished stainless edge trim surround on the console insert. This one will be used for the passenger side arm, the drivers side will have a wider flange toward the driver to accommodate the shift selector position marking.


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[MP&C]

Thanks Dan!!


More console work, time to fabricate the hemmed surround for the insert. In order for the surround to be seamless, we need to do some welding.









For our corners we relieve the flange and trim the back side to about half the hem width. This gives us less material in the tucks for shrinking in the corners, and also allows hammering from the back side to bring up any lows.

















We cut a fake insert out of 18 gauge CRS with rounded corners to use as a hammer form, gives us something to hammer against when we heat up the corners.

















Everything's a tool, and when the PVC pipe is the only thing in the shop that matches our needed radius, it's what we use for a radius bender.











To prevent our hem from closing during the radius forming, some 18 gauge strips were placed in the hem.











Press studs used to attach to the console and will be hidden underneath the center panel.











Insert cut out to match our poster board sample, then it gets 800 grit, then 1000 through 5000 foam pads, then buffed..

https://youtube.com/shorts/Wlbrs908hSM?si=FEH0gssNlu9xhBkm

Then we cover it with frisk film to protect our buffed surface.

















Test fit...











Installing the surround to the filler panel











Still have to touch up some areas with the buffer (heat from tacking the press studs) but here's the test fit.










video:

https://youtube.com/shorts/0FhzILNBYVs?si=sCPzr-q_-0oYgu6S

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[DanStokes]

Good to hear from you! One of the highlites of my BS experience!

[MP&C]

Trying to assemble the tailgate so we can put it on, but our latch actuator is absolutely worn out in the square hole, the handle just about rotates inside of it. They don't make repop's (that I'm aware of) and someone just offered a rebuilding service at over $300. So I reached out to my go to used parts outlet and a good used one is on the way, mailed the same day.. Reference photo:





So while we're waiting on parts to load up the rest of the bits on the tailgate, lets chase the threaded holes....








The console just got dropped off, we had some material in the corners that was pulling due to all the stretching that had taken place. In order to keep things more permanent, I came up with some 19 gauge stainless "trim lock". A hemmed edge helps keep from cutting into the upholstery. It gets clipped in place, shoved into the corner snugly, and through drilled for installing solid rivets.

















In order to match our dash insert, the console insert will also be oriented horizontally (lines left to right)








We also got some of the stainless added to the front end. What an alignment pita. Still have some tweaks to do..

[MP&C]

Well in our typical back up and punt fashion, the original battery hold downs that we had already powder coated did not fit the battery, too short. So we ordered some round stock in stainless to fabricate some new ones.





A threaded standoff was modified to provide an angled surface for using as a hammer form to get the bottom "hooks" consistent...








All polished up...





Installed, and no polish job is complete without addressing the ends of the rods..








Assembling our vent windows, the excess rubber is trimmed using a No. 11 scalpel blade for a nice and tidy fit








All the bits assembled





installed...








And more stainless we missed, the parting bands for the front arm rests, complete with a form-fitted sanding/polishing fixture

[MP&C]

More progress on the wagon, working on the parts so we can assemble and install the vent windows. For our glass installation, we did things twice as the 1/16 rubber did not give a snug enough fit. So here is our second round using 3/32 thick rubber. One inch wide strips were cut out of the sheet and lubricated with an Ivory/water mix.























The rubber was wrapped around the glass and it was pressed down inside the frame by hand. Then a "slight" squeeze of the frame to ensure it wasn't sprung open from the installation process.















These got moved to the attic for a good heat baking (drying the soapy solution) and we'll trim the rubber flush with the chrome vent frame in a couple of days.




Next, onto prepping the stainless trim for the vent windows for buffing, refining the scratches. Detail work like this is more difficult with parts flopping around in your hand, so some MDF was found the correct size (width) to hold the wide portion of the trim, and another piece of MDF was shaved to fit the narrow piece of trim. We should have these done this weekend.

https://youtube.com/shorts/aXjasXvwN10?si=ag3weASGnXwPDeuK

https://youtube.com/shorts/KaRW2OMmoUc?si=FeaHI9eAk13uNpS6

Next, we picked up our battery, but the lifting handle bosses on the ends of the battery interfered with our OEM hold down.























Not to be dissuaded, the belt file made short work of a shave.















Luckily the mount hides our sanding marks. Much better down where it belongs...















Like it's made to go there...

[MP&C]

Picked up the vent window frames from The Shop at Shortys, done in a Gunmetal Gray Cerakote finish.





and we got our final piece of stainless trim from The Stainless Shoppe...





Packaged very well....








Steering column installed...








Friday was our appointment for lettering the blue wagon, rode up to PA to HotRodJen's art studio..





We opted for a script that deviated from the stock "decals", why hand paint something to match a factory decal? Let's go with looks fast while standing still...














and reassembled for the trip home..

[DanStokes]

Jesse Harris, a metalshaper local to me, did a recent video on using the TIG for performing spot welds. He was kind enough to send me the video so we could share it with others...


https://youtu.be/JRBcLeRjN3Q

Nifty trick! Now, if I had a TIG....... But I know a guy.

[MP&C]

More installing stainless trim. The screw holes for the beltline trim that wraps into the tailgate opening had been filled when we shaved the lead seams. So we used some tape to protect the paint as we aligned the side trim to the lift gate trim before drilling the holes.














One piece to go on the left side, awaiting the trip from WI.





Next, we attempted to install our vent windows in the "reconditioned" frames the owner had bought. Only we noticed they weren't so ready for installation...





and bent...





Well, since we're on a roll, lets check the stainless trim that divides the vent and side windows. This had been "reconditioned" and included with the bent and cracked vent frame. Looks like they just polished up the dents and scratches. Not going to meet our standards.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToR2iF0sNeQ


So we media blasted the original frames, which had no damage, and dropped them off at the Shop at Shorty's for a Cerakote finish.





Inspecting the stainless trim, we found the originals to be less beat up than the reconditioned stuff, so we opted to straighten out the originals. Here's a comparison of the trim, the two on the left are the reconditioned that had been polished right over the defects. The two on the right are the originals, the left of the two has had any dings/dents pushed from the back in prep for our refinement process. (except the one up top I missed) The right one has gone through our w/d 360, 600, 1200, 1500, 2000, and 2500, all done wet. There are some minor scratches still, so we'll go through this process once more prior to buffing to make sure we have a flawless finish.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIQcvWRF9nU


And a helpful hint for those who dabble in polishing stainless. We've all had occasion where the stainless slips off the buffing wheel, bouncing off the buffer shaft, causing another 2-3 hours to correct. We added a rubber grommet to cover the nut and a plastic end cap to cover the threads. Less chance of damage from those mis-steps.








We did get some more chrome on the front. Look, no bolts!!

[Monster]

Very cool (I mean hot) !

[MP&C]

Jesse Harris, a metalshaper local to me, did a recent video on using the TIG for performing spot welds. He was kind enough to send me the video so we could share it with others...

https://youtu.be/JRBcLeRjN3Q

[Captain]

Groovy Idea !!!
Pun included......
No Shame in Shop Made Tools.....
If you have the Vintage "Motor Shop Manuals"
They have diagrams, and instructions to make tools
to save buying Dealership (Expensive) tools from common shop supplies.

[MP&C]

Friday night was paint night. We started with a coat of SPI epoxy thinned for sealing, then two coats of Galaxy gray shimrin basecoat, then 4 coats of Cobalt Blue Kandy, and two coats of SPI universal clear.

















First coat of Kandy:











It was loosely assembled Saturday morning and carried into the sunlight for pictures. The low morning sun was not enough to wake up the metallic in the basecoat, and this looks jet black.











A bit later, it’s starting to wake up the blue….





[MEDIA=youtube]SeT3ykEg_wA[/MEDIA]





After wagon assembly and photo op, we did some more Stainless scratch refinement... Two long pieces left to go. and one on order. Dana had taken one somewhere for straightening, and the results left us with a wrinkle and a crack forming. So that one's replacement is on the way from The Stainless Shoppe.

















Jared putting the eagle eye on the remaining stainless to find any defects...











Reassembling the steering column after painting...





some heat shrink was added to the harness to help prevent abrading against the steering shaft. Our steering wheel puller kit did not have the needed parts for compressing the spring for the ts cam/horn ring, so we made a push ring and modified some 5/16 bolts for the cause. Much cheaper than grinding on the snap on parts.



































Sunday morning I did a shop tour for Pete, his son, and his neighbor. I was too busy running my mouth to take pictures... After that we loaded up the wagon for it's maiden voyage, a shakedown run at Eddie's Brunch and Car Show, located at Bailey's Olde Breton Inn. This isn't a real large show (although it grows every year) but it's one of those must attends, and all the proceeds benefit our local Hospice.



Some takeaways on the wagon design, the pull handle length that was designed for a small child inside the wagon was too short for a 6' tall fella with a long stride. Felt like yap dogs at my heels . And I think the frame design may need air bags, where it did well on the pavement, there was quite a bit of drag (rolling resistance) with the grass up in the frame.









































*Car show pictures borrowed from FB

[Loren]

I've fixed a bit of stainless over time for the Corvette guys, I'd make special dinging tools to hammer in, and use foam-polishing compound (w/ wheel dedicated for it) for a final go-over, a competitor-of-sorts couldn't figure out why the color on my stuff was nicer than his but I wouldn't tell him about that part. All very time-consuming.

[MP&C]

More stainless polishing. We had been doing some of the shorter sections by sanding on top of my 4 wheel shop stool as it has a nice flat top surface.















Once we got to the longer sections of trim, this became too cumbersome, so some 1/2" MDF was repurposed as a "holding fixture" while we refined the damaged scratches and dings. A Black Diamond longboard was used with 500 grit PSA paper to highlight any low spots, high spots, or other carnage. Then some LIGHT DUTY metal bumping to address the issues and a repeat of the highlighting sanding. Once all the defects were addressed, we then worked progressively through 600, 1200, 1500, 2000, and 2500 w/d paper. Then 3000 and 5000 Trizact, and finally on to the buffer.

https://youtu.be/THKxgvIdVZw

A modification of our "fixture" to hold the curved end of the trim...

https://youtu.be/N5cgoFXjCDk

https://youtube.com/shorts/tViITsStf_A?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/zYWU_zc4q1w?feature=share

Jared helps out here to help stabilize the skinny trim and keep it from flopping around. Once quick mis-step at this point is about an hour minimum of recovery.

https://youtu.be/Q0h6FuKog44

Nice reflection of the door opener in the ceiling after buffing...















trim clips added...























...and our driver's mirror added...