Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

'80 Triumph Tr-7

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Ha! You got me on the legroom. I fold. You gotta admit the Maserati comparo was unexpected?


    Been browsing the roadracing arena - saw something that has me baffled.

    Look at the plumbing that terminates in a blind fitting next to the driveshaft tunnel in this picture. What the heck is that? Bleed-on-the-fly capability for rear brakes?
    Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

    Comment


    • Fire system.

      The handle is in red, the fitting in front of it has a slot at the otherside spraying fire suppresent.

      I have those on my car.
      Last edited by Bob Holmes; April 4, 2013, 01:34 PM.
      I'm still learning

      Comment


      • Ahhh....of course. Kind of like a Rain-Bird sprinkler head. Gotcha - thanks!
        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

        Comment


        • Bob H tree'd me.

          Dan

          Comment


          • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
            Bob H tree'd me.

            Dan
            Tree'd...I think it was more like "calendared." LOL
            I'm still learning

            Comment


            • Can you see which way the lever or rod is supposed to move on the latch?
              Can you work the latch at all?
              Get lots cars that drivers doors do not open.. Usally do with lube.. Or working the rods to make the latch work.
              Working on a caddy now that will not open with outside handle but will with inside..
              Once the cage, brake pedal and steering are done, it gets welded shut!

              Comment


              • Originally posted by STINEY View Post
                Ha! You got me on the legroom. I fold. You gotta admit the Maserati comparo was unexpected?
                I saw that comparo a mile away. It's the first thing I think of when I see a yellow van that may or may not have abducted children and have to run from the police


                (okay, it was a bit unexpected )
                Escaped on a technicality.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
                  Can you see which way the lever or rod is supposed to move on the latch?
                  Can you work the latch at all?
                  Yep, its very obvious how the latch works. Everything works fine, and although I can move the release 1/4" farther than the handles do, it has no effect. Its something inside the actual latch mechanism, maybe a worn plate with an "extra" notch or a notch that is worn away. Thing is, the fasteners to remove the latch are only accessible with the door OPEN...Grrr...

                  It irks me, cause I'm usually the one people I know turn to in these impossible situations. I'm not often stumped - usually I'm handing out the suprise at how quick I fixed it. This door turned into one stubborn billy goat.



                  And possibly the most valuable pieces of the donor van.....the guages. Mechanical Temp, Voltmeter, and electric Oil Pressure - and a mini Sun Tach.

                  Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

                  Comment


                  • Any chance the lock mechanism is set to 'lock'? If you haven't, see what is supposed to be moving with the lock mechanism and see if it's doing it's job. I know anytime I've ever messed with latch mechanisms, the lock part is surprisingly simple in function and when activated it looks like the handles, rods and levers are all doing their job but the latch doesn't open.
                    Escaped on a technicality.

                    Comment


                    • Not really.....the lock mechanism engages/disengages both the inner and outer handles, so its not really tied to the latch.

                      But I tried it both ways anyhow.

                      I'm really baffled. I can see exactly how everything works, and I can bypass 99% of the handle/lock BS and activate the latch all by itself with a long screwdriver, but that darn safety STILL doesn't release. It has to be a wear issue with in the latch, but how to get to it?

                      WHEN I get it open - BearClaws are starting to look REALLY good to me.
                      Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

                      Comment


                      • They didn't pull the old Duke boy's trick of welding the door shut did they
                        Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                        1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                        1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                        1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                        1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                        1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

                        Comment


                        • what about the door striker? can you get to it from the back side and remove it? Have you tried Google to see if anyone else has had this problem? On wrecked cars I have used a sawsall to cut the striker but that may do more damage they you are looking for.
                          http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                          1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                          PB 60' 1.49
                          ​​​​​​

                          Comment


                          • Striker is bolted in from the same side as the latch. The bolt heads face each other when closed. The back side is an inaccessible body cavity with a loose threaded plate.

                            I'd cut the striker if I could get to it, and weld it back up later.

                            Next option - the front door hinges unbolt from INSIDE the door. That's right gents, nuts inside/underneath the door panel.

                            Perhaps that will give me some more wiggle room. (Hey, weren't the Wiggles British?)
                            Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

                            Comment


                            • Don't get me started on the wiggles, or that damned chica - now back to the doors - I only present the neophites version because this is usually where I call someone for help - the big meathooks at the end of my arms don't do small spaces very well.

                              What is different between the passenger side which works correctly - and the driver side which does not - there must be something different - how far apart have you taken the passenger side?
                              There's always something new to learn.

                              Comment


                              • This will sound crude but it worked for me once (it's taken me a while to remember this one). I had a similar situation and after assuring that the door was unlocked I had someone hold the door handle in the presumed "open" situation and I laid on the seat with me feet toward the offending door. Then the mightiest two-footed kick I could muster and the door swung open. Warn the door handle opener to pull back right after you kick! Worth a try.

                                Dan

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X