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'80 Triumph Tr-7

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  • Geez, measure it before you do anything.
    I'm still learning

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    • Baseline EVERYTHING before changes..
      It ran once before like that..
      Must be a reason why no longer is..
      Whatever the reason.. Your changes need somewhere to start from.. The bump steer might not even be there after the car has the M/T installed..

      Comment


      • Of course.....just some thinking out loud there. Bench-racing as it were.


        More cleanup last night. Got the rocker panel 6x9 90's speaker hackery removed, and the spray foam dug out.

        Found more of those darn sticker cactus spawns of satan too. Grrr..

        This was in the rocker.........BEFORE they foamed it. Bet that rattle was hard to diagnose?




        "I don't often stuff beer bottles down my rocker panels, but when I do, it's O'Douls Amber."


        And what's this buried in the foam?



        Of course! Always need an opener handy!



        Removed the carpeting and padding, and one sides' tar-board. Of course, that's the side that it came off relatively easily, the other shows every sign of being a PIA to get up.

        But look! Actual steel for floors, not some iron-oxide wanna-be floor! This could be the first project car for me whose floors didn't come separately in a UPS box.
        Last edited by STINEY; March 29, 2013, 06:13 AM.
        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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        • Front end: Flip sway bar over and flip ball joints over maybe? Might flip the spindle arms left to right to correct the ball joint taper?

          Thinking out loud.....
          Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
          1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
          1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
          1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
          1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
          1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

          Comment


          • I was wondering if you could re-taper the arms and put the tie rod ends in from the bottom. But I agree - try it first.

            Dan

            Comment


            • Originally posted by BBR View Post
              Front end: Flip sway bar over and flip ball joints over maybe? Might flip the spindle arms left to right to correct the ball joint taper?

              Thinking out loud.....
              I bet it'd put the rack within striking distance of the ground... I don't know this personally, but I suspect that racks hitting the ground is a bad thing.... just a guess, mind you
              Doing it all wrong since 1966

              Comment


              • No, not a rack flip.

                Swaybar is contoured at the ends to clear the tie rods. Flip it over so the contour favors the other direction.

                The steering arms bolt to the spindles and are mirror images of each other.


                Swap them side to side and this will flip the taper and allow you to rotate the tie rod to the bottom thereby making the tie rod much closer to parallel with the control arm.

                Clear as mud?
                Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

                Comment


                • Beautiful. That should work wonderfully.
                  Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

                  Comment


                  • I'm skeptical.... I think the tie rod needs to be dead center of the steering arm.... flipping it over will, IMO, make it too low
                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

                    Comment


                    • If all else fails, HEIM JOINT IT,

                      Comment


                      • An old friend of mine who use to road race his 66 Mustang knew his stuff when it came to suspensions. His comment to me about bump steer was it's one thing to go into a turn at 30 MPH and it's another at 130 MPH. Basically it's how much you'll tolerate. I agee with the others. See how it is before doing anything. On the Mustang forum I hang out on, another guy who road races and sells parts under the name of "Opentracker" posted a really clever and simple way of checking bump steer. With the car facing a flat wall or anything flat, strike a vertical line on the wall. With the car at ride height, spring removed and a cheapy laser level strapped to the spindle with it's beam shining next to the vertical line you just drew, raise and lower the suspension and observe it's path compared to the vertical line. You won't get numbers to plot a graph but you will visually see the bump steer and go from there on any corrections if desired.
                        Tom
                        Overdrive is overrated


                        Comment


                        • Its not whether or not they are parallel, its whether or not their relationship changes as they swing through their respective arcs. It can be difficult to get to 0 bumpsteer, but through various devices you can generally get very close. I do know of certain combinations of parts for Mustangs where the tie rod end and steering arm have to occupy the same space, so not everything is easily fixable.

                          It's great that everyone is thinking of solutions, yet we don't even know the nature of the problem. Measure it, plot the measurements on graph paper and then we can find a proper solution.
                          I'm still learning

                          Comment


                          • Yes you are correct Bob, but my assumption is that the tie rod was more or less parallel with the lca before the rack was lowered. If the rack and inner pivot is lowered 2", then the center point of the outer pivoting end (tie rod end) also needs to be lowered a corresponding 2". This is of course also assuming the Truimph engineers designed it with minimal bump steer in the first place! If not, all bets are off!
                            Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                            1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                            1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                            1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                            1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                            1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

                            Comment


                            • One would like to think that a design that was meant to take the world by storm (in 1980) would have had good steering geometry......

                              But who knows. The British also think Lucas is a good idea.....


                              On that topic, just got off the phone with Rebel Wire in Tennessee. After last nights excavation on the TR7, I found lots of screwed up wiring. The main harness going to the back of the car apparently met up with the saw that cut the speaker hole in the right rocker, some that maybe one of those packrats found particularly tasty, and some that just are old and brittle.

                              Not to mention that every wire under the hood is painted blue along with the rest of the engine compartment.

                              I may just go with one of RebelWires' 9+3 circuit kits.

                              http://rebelwire.com/rebel-wire-prod...at=Wire%20Kits
                              Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

                              Comment


                              • STINEY... I got out & took some pics of our 80 TR-7 today...

                                Right door is ok, has some rust, opens/closes fine..

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                                The rust..

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                                The body kit I was telling you about is still surprisingly intact!!!

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                                Still has some interior parts too...

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                                Here's 1 of the 8.8 Explorer axles we discussed.

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                                This is a 'D4' 3.73 limited slip out of a 00 Mountaineer..

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