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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    New stuff ready to go. Old radiator. Had to quit at 12:30 am so I could get some sleep before work. Hope to be back on the road Saturday.

    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by 74NovaMan; April 26, 2015, 07:17 AM.

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    For the "pictures or it didn't happen" crowd:

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    Last edited by 74NovaMan; April 26, 2015, 07:17 AM.

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    Trans is out!

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    New radiator is in. Time to get the old Trans out.

    Here is a pic of the new parts:

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    Last edited by 74NovaMan; April 26, 2015, 07:16 AM.

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  • STINEY
    replied
    I once cured that problem by tossing the new generic parts store thermostat (actually 3 of them) and stepping up to a STANT SUPERSTAT.

    Hold one of each in your hands, there is no comparison. Cheap thermostats suck.

    The STANT was about $15 at the time.

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  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    I read your problems with interest..
    I also have that same "problem" with my flatbed... Not sure what I did to make that happen.. Might be hose replacement..Or thermostat..
    It will heat up to 220/240 for a half mile or so then drop to 160/180. With a 180 thermostat..
    Never lost water/coolant. Always have some in overflow and radiator.. Heater doesn't warm worth a wee! So sounds like I will try a new cap and filling with the heater hose.. Be some time before I do it as there is a cord of slabs on it right now

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    Thanks again guys. I drove 33 miles home last night and as it warmed up on the freeway it hit about 220. It was there for maybe a minute and then started dropping and wound up around 190. It stayed around there pretty steady for the rest of the drive home. I agree with the air bubble theory for the eariler behavior but the above looks like thermostat to me.

    I picked up a new radiator and another new thermostat yesterday. When I swap those out I'll drill holes and try the heater hose trick as well. I'll make sure to pick up a new cap too. Hopefully that will solve the cooling issues.

    I believe that I have figured out the temp switch/light issue. When I called NAPA for a replacement sender (first one was from O'riely) the guy asks "light or gauge?" Don't remember that question from O'riely. I'm betting I have a guage sender.

    I also picked up the rebuilt transmission and new converter last night. The next couple of days should be busy.

    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by 74NovaMan; February 4, 2016, 01:43 PM.

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    agreed

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  • Scott Liggett
    replied
    Sounds a lot like an air bubble in the block. I drill two or three 1/8 or 3/16 holes in the thermostat. It allows air to escape pretty quickly.

    Also, if you are still using the old radiator cap, get a new one.

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  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    I do typically drill ~1/8th inch hole in the thermostat, however I find the results mediocre. I think because it bleeds air too slowly, hence why I switched to pulling the heater hose. I still do the ~1/8th inch hole anyways out of habit and I don't believe it hurts anything.

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    The swings, especially on the way down (from 220 - 180), took only seconds. Seems to scream air bubble doesn't it?

    Ever drilled a hole in the thermostat to eliminate trapped air?
    Last edited by 74NovaMan; May 21, 2013, 02:00 PM.

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  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    I don't believe a fan can cause rapid temperature oscillations. Either slowly heat up or slowly cool down over a period of a few minutes.

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    It has worked fairly well in the past. It has got to be the thermostat or an air bubble.

    Thanks for the ideas guys.
    Last edited by 74NovaMan; May 21, 2013, 01:53 PM.

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  • STINEY
    replied
    I remember some flex's getting a bad rap for performance.....maybe you have one of those?

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    Flex

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