1972 Chevy C10 with 4.8 LS: Project Chimera

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

Russel - got a link to how they did that one?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=277456

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

I know you're not. You're the most unreasonably pessimistic person on the forum, about practically everyone's projects. I'm not going to argue my facts against your opinions and leaving it at that.

glad you think your words are facts

[Matt Cramer]

You don't have to have a high pressure pump in the cab to smell gas all the time. Just a leaky fill spout coupling or the cab gasket being worn out will leave a lovely reek o fumes in the cab. I had an old Ranger (F100) that smelt like gas after every hard right hand turn.

Er, yes, I've already got the annoying "fumes in the cab after a fill up" issue. It's likely to guaranty the tank isn't staying in the cab indefinitely.

http://www.lmctruck.com/features/cb/cbgtn.htm

has a relocation kit, may be the one the Trucks! guys used.[/QUOTE]

Thanks! I'm also looking into the possibility of using a '69 Camaro tank with a filler under the license plate (need to be sure I can keep the trailer hitch) or a fuel cell.

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

Er, yes, I've already got the annoying "fumes in the cab after a fill up" issue. It's likely to guaranty the tank isn't staying in the cab indefinitely.

http://www.lmctruck.com/features/cb/cbgtn.htm

has a relocation kit, may be the one the Trucks! guys used.

Thanks! I'm also looking into the possibility of using a '69 Camaro tank with a filler under the license plate (need to be sure I can keep the trailer hitch) or a fuel cell.[/QUOTE]

should be able to keep hitch, just not a hidden hitch..

this is the blazer tank "kit" installed, the 69 f body tank goes in same spot with filler neck going through that back cross member and is no were near as deep. both will allow the hitch , the f body tank you may have to move the back cross member back some here is a thread on that tank install

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=448386

iirc the chevy/gmc vans up till the early 90's with tank about the same size as the blazer tank in mine that are plastic have a sender set up for an intank pump.
but are as deep as the 67-72 blazer tank that's in the first photo.
most of the blazer "kits" senders are based off the 67-68 the later ones have 2 lines on the sender and not 100% sure but 72 has an extra bung either on the tank or the sender for the emission set up..
the burb tank that is the same size as the blazer puts the filler neck in a different spot .
the filler neck on these tanks are 1.5" and no parts stores carry that size anymore, so you have to go to a marine/boat parts store and get 1.5" i.d. boat exhaust hose as the fuel won't bother it, and it's has a steel reinforcement that wraps around it,like a spring and is between the layers.. so suction won't suck it closed, not an issue in the tank use but for the boat,I guess it must be..

[Matt Cramer]

I'm working on a wiring diagram for putting an MS3-Pro on this engine. Check it out here: http://www.diyautotune.com/downloads...g_diagrams.pdf

[BigAL]

I've been looking at this setup for my truck, you just cut a hole in the bed of the truck for the filler.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-72-63-64-65-66-67-68-69-70-CHEVY-GMC-C10-TRUCK-ALUMINUM-BED-GAS-FUEL-TANK-/160973784207?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1972%7CMake%3AGMC&hash=item257ac9048f&vxp=mtr

[Matt Cramer]

Tried to get the transmission in tonight, and was having trouble mating it up. So, I took the converter off to check if it wasn't sliding into the flexplate right. It actually would - but I realized I had another issue: The bolt circle was totally wrong. I've heard of cases where the flexplate used an 11.8" bolt circle and the converter used an 11.7" bolt circle, but here, there's a difference of at least half an inch in bolt circle diameters.

Time to take a step back and figure out what's going on.

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

Tried to get the transmission in tonight, and was having trouble mating it up. So, I took the converter off to check if it wasn't sliding into the flexplate right. It actually would - but I realized I had another issue: The bolt circle was totally wrong. I've heard of cases where the flexplate used an 11.8" bolt circle and the converter used an 11.7" bolt circle, but here, there's a difference of at least half an inch in bolt circle diameters.

Time to take a step back and figure out what's going on.

one bolt circle is 10" something

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

I've been looking at this setup for my truck, you just cut a hole in the bed of the truck for the filler.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-72-63-6...c9048f&vxp=mtr

if you are going to spend that much coin, get a s/s from here

http://www.rickstanks.com/

[Matt Cramer]

one bolt circle is 10" something

Yeah, measured things again this morning, looks like I've got a 10.75" bolt circle converter.

BigAl, thank for the link, but I'm probably going to try something a bit more budget oriented.

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

in your thread I posted a link to the spike power block and the trucks show, they show how to use the blazer tank(cheap) and a 200? 'burban fuel sender/pump unit in that tank.. it's almost 2 easy..

iirc it's this link..

http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes/TK2013-03/1971-c-10-ls-engine-swap

We're installing our freshly harvested 6.0 LS engine and its 4L80 transmission in our 1971 C-10. Then, we're relocating the gas tank to under the bed before installing our modified engine harness and firing it up.


yup correct one..

the pick up/sender/pump unit is a junkyard away and just install your pump on/in to it..

[Matt Cramer]

My Advance Adapters flexplate arrived today. Should solve the torque converter issue.

[Matt Cramer]

This thread is long overdue for an update. Yes, the Advance Adapters flexplate worked great. I used a Street & Performance bracket for a kickdown cable mount. The bracket was ridiculously overpriced - $50 including shipping gets you a flat 2" piece of sheet metal with two holes in it, one of which makes no sense whatsoever. Would have fabbed my own if I'd known what I was getting. The kickdown cable wasn't long enough to reach; I'm trying to adapt something that I think was meant for a 700R4.

Other stuff that I need to get some pictures of:

The exhaust was pretty easy to set up - Camaro manifolds exit straight down and more or less lined up with the stock pipes, so I just needed a set of 2 bolt flanges, 90 degree bends, and a couple feet of piping. Someday I'd like to come back and put a crossover pipe in there.

Ended up attaching the MS3-Pro ECU to the A/C evaporator box with riv-nuts. Sounds a bit crazy but it ought to work. It's pretty lightweight and designed to go under the hood, but there wasn't any other good spot on the firewall.

Radiator hoses from a 2005 Silverado are almost a direct fit. I did have to trim an inch off both ends of the lower one.

Bent a new brake line to snake around the exhaust better. After getting nowhere with a Mity-Vac, one of my co-workers suggested I just open the bleeders at the back one at a time and gravity bleed the system. Got all the air out with a lot less work.

Yesterday, I took it for a spin around the parking lot. Had a transmission coolant line that was leaking, but I just needed to tighten up some fittings and that solved that. I think it's ready for tuning.

[Beagle]

That's great Matt! Hey, it's a Chevy, it's kind of expected that it will mark it's territory. Haha. Had to.

Do you have a canned tune or will it get time on the rollers?

[milner351]

Fantastic - I wasn't aware the pro was an all weather unit - that's cool. I'm sure you'll have this thing going faster while getting better mpg than a new truck in no time. Well done.