62 Chevy II AF/X

[squirrel]

few more pics.

[squirrel]

Thanks for the thoughts.


I agree, the black wheels don't look as nice. They do keep the tires from being hit by the quarter panel on big bumps, which has happened a few times. I need to get the car outside and take some pictures of it in different settings, see how it looks.

just for fun I measured the height of the rocker panel, front and back, and the car is sitting perfectly level right now. There is enough air in the shocks to make the rear tire fit perfectly centered in the wheelwell radius.

And I do like the looks of the car with slicks with the slots on back...

[Deaf Bob]

Back in the 70's the tire used on drag cars was narrow tall slicks..
I can't really remember seeing wide tires except on street cars jacked up to the moon.. Very few were fender massaged to take wide tires
A neighbor had a 57 Belair that he drag raced.. Had small spokes up front, black narrow tall MH slicks on the back.. He could pop small wheelies on launch with a 2X4 tunnel ram 292 ci small block with a Muncie..

If Jim could add a few bars to run 9's.. That would be cool.. But it will probably ruin the look he went for and nailed..
"What if" is a terrible monster...
"What if I drove one of our current derby cars"... I fight that all the time but know I CANNOT afford to risk it..

[mike343sharpstick]

I love how it is now, it's a bit throwback, and unique at the same time.
I like the attitude of the car when you had the aluminum slots on the back way back in June 2014. That fatter tire on wider black steel wheel would be cool too.
Looks like you prefer the narrower wheels lately so I could see making some changes to the rear wheel openings to keep it interesting.

[RustyRodder]

I agree with the above!

[Russell]

I liked the other wheels better. The black doesn't do it for me. That is the cleanest head I have ever seen! Have you thought about bracket racing it?

[BlueCuda340]

That 3.50 gear might be a good go between gear. I bet its decent on the highway and might slow it down just enough to not worry about hitting that 9 second zone again.

[squirrel]

thanks! you know how it is, can't leave well enough alone. I've been messing with a lot of little things since Drag Week, getting ready for Drag Weekend.

[langleylad]

I hauled the leaking-but-sealed-with-stop-leak radiator to the scrap pile...oh well.

I got my new blower belts, and put one on the car. I also found a set of 3.50 used original Ford rear gears for a reasonable price on ebay, and bought them. I'll put them in the "race" third member when they get here, and install it in the car, and see how it does.

I put the bias ply L78-15 tires on some original steel 15x5" 55 chevy wheels, after blasting and painting the wheels black. They fit pretty well centered in the wheelwell side-side. They should clear the stock fender lip, if it were there. I did some measuring on the slicks, and the Cragar GT wheels, and they might fit ok inside the stock fender lip, or they might not. I might mount one up and see. I was thinking about what it would take to get rid of the radius...I can buy a wheel opening patch panel for about $80 per side, and could probably tack them on and finish and paint them. Just a thought, not sure if I want to do this or not. also I need to confirm the slicks would fit first, which is iffy. And those wheels weigh a ton, which will slow the car down a bit.

I've been thinking about the 9.99 NHRA stuff, and I'm pretty sure I just want the car to run tens. It makes life so much easier. I have a couple nine second runs on it, so I can already brag that it's a nine second car...even if it never runs a nine again!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1060562[/ATTACH]

It's great as is , don't F with a good thing . Just play with it and enjoy it ! , the car that is .

[langleylad]

Spotless , don't you run any oil ?.

[squirrel]

also I pulled the valve covers, and looked things over...nothing to report. Which is good.

[squirrel]

I hauled the leaking-but-sealed-with-stop-leak radiator to the scrap pile...oh well.

I got my new blower belts, and put one on the car. I also found a set of 3.50 used original Ford rear gears for a reasonable price on ebay, and bought them. I'll put them in the "race" third member when they get here, and install it in the car, and see how it does.

I put the bias ply L78-15 tires on some original steel 15x5" 55 chevy wheels, after blasting and painting the wheels black. They fit pretty well centered in the wheelwell side-side. They should clear the stock fender lip, if it were there. I did some measuring on the slicks, and the Cragar GT wheels, and they might fit ok inside the stock fender lip, or they might not. I might mount one up and see. I was thinking about what it would take to get rid of the radius...I can buy a wheel opening patch panel for about $80 per side, and could probably tack them on and finish and paint them. Just a thought, not sure if I want to do this or not. also I need to confirm the slicks would fit first, which is iffy. And those wheels weigh a ton, which will slow the car down a bit.

I've been thinking about the 9.99 NHRA stuff, and I'm pretty sure I just want the car to run tens. It makes life so much easier. I have a couple nine second runs on it, so I can already brag that it's a nine second car...even if it never runs a nine again!

[Deaf Bob]

I haven't tried yet.. Kinda afraid to on a "good" radiator..
Is it difficult to solder aluminum?
I fixed this one with JBWeld, the slow curing kind as it will creep into the fin area without needing poked.. And a plate over it with holes for the JB to ooze around..
I suppose I should try on a junker...just don't have one yet..

[TheSilverBuick]

The copper/brass radiator the right size is about $200 or so, which is about 30% higher than the aluminum. They all seem to have problems, so I guess it doesn't really matter too much. The important thing might be to use one that I can find a replacement for without any problem...like, one that they stock at the typical chain parts stores.

That drives a lot of the car part decisions I've made. Often the EFI stuff is far easier to locate and get than Buick stuff that is always special ordered.

[squirrel]

The copper/brass radiator the right size is about $200 or so, which is about 30% higher than the aluminum. They all seem to have problems, so I guess it doesn't really matter too much. The important thing might be to use one that I can find a replacement for without any problem...like, one that they stock at the typical chain parts stores.