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62 Chevy II AF/X

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  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    I haven't tried yet.. Kinda afraid to on a "good" radiator..
    Is it difficult to solder aluminum?
    I fixed this one with JBWeld, the slow curing kind as it will creep into the fin area without needing poked.. And a plate over it with holes for the JB to ooze around..
    I suppose I should try on a junker...just don't have one yet..

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  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    Originally posted by squirrel View Post
    The copper/brass radiator the right size is about $200 or so, which is about 30% higher than the aluminum. They all seem to have problems, so I guess it doesn't really matter too much. The important thing might be to use one that I can find a replacement for without any problem...like, one that they stock at the typical chain parts stores.
    That drives a lot of the car part decisions I've made. Often the EFI stuff is far easier to locate and get than Buick stuff that is always special ordered.

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  • squirrel
    replied
    The copper/brass radiator the right size is about $200 or so, which is about 30% higher than the aluminum. They all seem to have problems, so I guess it doesn't really matter too much. The important thing might be to use one that I can find a replacement for without any problem...like, one that they stock at the typical chain parts stores.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    I do know the aluminum ones handle being beat on better than the brass/copper ones..
    Might have to do with age..
    We are using the same one in 3 cars and repaired 2 times..
    Copper/brass warp easier. (a consideration when your wheels hit the pavement after a 2 wheeled launch)

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  • squirrel
    replied
    too many choices! I don't know what to do

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  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    Interesting it's a 3-row aluminum radiator as most higher performance ones are 2-row. Typically one 1" aluminum row is equivalent to a 3-core brass/copper radiator, so a two 1" row aluminum is like magical 6 core brass/copper radiator. Looks like that one has three 3/4" rows with an over all width of 2.25", which isn't bad at all. The ones that are 3" thick tend to require a lot more air speed to get air effectively through them.

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  • 68scott385
    replied
    THANK YOU!!!

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  • squirrel
    replied
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/141782668928

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  • 68scott385
    replied
    Originally posted by squirrel View Post
    shocking!

    I swiped the horn out of my 55 to put in the Chevy II. I found a couple other horns I can put in the 55, they don't look good enough for the fast car, but they'll do for the slow one.

    Looking into radiators...I found an aluminum cross flow that's wider than the one I have now, mostly fits 70s Cadillacs, has a 30" wide core. And the tanks look sort of like the old ones, with the pressed ribs. I might buy it, and see how it does. Of course I'd paint it black. $160, probably made in China also. If I make the brackets to mount this one at the headers, then I can easily replace it when on the road...it's a relatively common size, although the normal replacements at parts stores have plastic tanks and only one row of tubes.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1059861[/ATTACH]
    What's the part number on that Jim? And the manufacturer too if you don't mind doing my homework for me.


    Thinking that might work in my w(r)agon, the in/out/heater connection/trans cooler all works but iirc mine (both cars take near identical radiators with heater connection being the difference) are 27"-28" wide. I could probably find some extra width.

    [/hijack] sorry

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  • squirrel
    replied
    shocking!

    I swiped the horn out of my 55 to put in the Chevy II. I found a couple other horns I can put in the 55, they don't look good enough for the fast car, but they'll do for the slow one.

    Looking into radiators...I found an aluminum cross flow that's wider than the one I have now, mostly fits 70s Cadillacs, has a 30" wide core. And the tanks look sort of like the old ones, with the pressed ribs. I might buy it, and see how it does. Of course I'd paint it black. $160, probably made in China also. If I make the brackets to mount this one at the headers, then I can easily replace it when on the road...it's a relatively common size, although the normal replacements at parts stores have plastic tanks and only one row of tubes.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	radiator.jpg
Views:	20
Size:	281.8 KB
ID:	1059861

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  • Scott Liggett
    replied
    GASP!!!!

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  • squirrel
    replied
    It honked for registration. I borrowed one from a fellow racer!

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  • Scott Liggett
    replied
    Originally posted by squirrel View Post
    There is some angle between the transmission and the driveshaft...when I talk about pinion angle, I always mean relative to the transmission centerline. I think it wants around 3 degrees, and it's probably close to that now.

    I put another odometer in the car, one I had in an old cluster. I changed the oil, put 5W30 in it to replace the 20W50. I also took a sample to send in for analysis.

    I've been looking at replacing the radiator, but I'm not sure yet what I want to do. I might swipe the one out of the 55 and put something else in the 55, and be done with it.

    I might also clean up some old steel wheels, to put the bias ply tires on the car again for driving around town. It looks better that way, even if it rides a bit funny.

    I ordered a few new blower belts, cheap off ebay, genuine Gates surplus.

    and I pulled the distributor this morning, and swapped out one of the advance weight springs, for a shorter one. now it starts at 20 degrees initial, starts advancing at 1500, all in by 2500 at 36 total. I still need to play with the idle speed and mixture. And it seems to be idling a bit rougher than it used to. I should probably do a compression test and look under the valve covers, just for fun.

    I still need to find a horn.
    Wait. Wait Wait!! Turk passed your tech card with no horn?!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • squirrel
    replied
    There is some angle between the transmission and the driveshaft...when I talk about pinion angle, I always mean relative to the transmission centerline. I think it wants around 3 degrees, and it's probably close to that now.

    I put another odometer in the car, one I had in an old cluster. I changed the oil, put 5W30 in it to replace the 20W50. I also took a sample to send in for analysis.

    I've been looking at replacing the radiator, but I'm not sure yet what I want to do. I might swipe the one out of the 55 and put something else in the 55, and be done with it.

    I might also clean up some old steel wheels, to put the bias ply tires on the car again for driving around town. It looks better that way, even if it rides a bit funny.

    I ordered a few new blower belts, cheap off ebay, genuine Gates surplus.

    and I pulled the distributor this morning, and swapped out one of the advance weight springs, for a shorter one. now it starts at 20 degrees initial, starts advancing at 1500, all in by 2500 at 36 total. I still need to play with the idle speed and mixture. And it seems to be idling a bit rougher than it used to. I should probably do a compression test and look under the valve covers, just for fun.

    I still need to find a horn.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Basically stockers is 5-7* down.. You could bring it up to 3* down..
    Derby cars I like to make them 5-10* up because as the back of the car smashes up, the pinion goes down..
    Having th pinion level causes oiling problems and the u-joint does not get worked to lube. Supposedly..
    Might you have some twist?

    Leave a comment:

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