62 Chevy II AF/X

[Deaf Bob]

I do know the aluminum ones handle being beat on better than the brass/copper ones..
Might have to do with age..
We are using the same one in 3 cars and repaired 2 times..
Copper/brass warp easier. (a consideration when your wheels hit the pavement after a 2 wheeled launch)

[squirrel]

too many choices! I don't know what to do

[TheSilverBuick]

Interesting it's a 3-row aluminum radiator as most higher performance ones are 2-row. Typically one 1" aluminum row is equivalent to a 3-core brass/copper radiator, so a two 1" row aluminum is like magical 6 core brass/copper radiator. Looks like that one has three 3/4" rows with an over all width of 2.25", which isn't bad at all. The ones that are 3" thick tend to require a lot more air speed to get air effectively through them.

[68scott385]

THANK YOU!!!

[squirrel]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141782668928

[68scott385]

shocking!

I swiped the horn out of my 55 to put in the Chevy II. I found a couple other horns I can put in the 55, they don't look good enough for the fast car, but they'll do for the slow one.

Looking into radiators...I found an aluminum cross flow that's wider than the one I have now, mostly fits 70s Cadillacs, has a 30" wide core. And the tanks look sort of like the old ones, with the pressed ribs. I might buy it, and see how it does. Of course I'd paint it black. $160, probably made in China also. If I make the brackets to mount this one at the headers, then I can easily replace it when on the road...it's a relatively common size, although the normal replacements at parts stores have plastic tanks and only one row of tubes.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1059861[/ATTACH]

What's the part number on that Jim? And the manufacturer too if you don't mind doing my homework for me.


Thinking that might work in my w(r)agon, the in/out/heater connection/trans cooler all works but iirc mine (both cars take near identical radiators with heater connection being the difference) are 27"-28" wide. I could probably find some extra width.

[/hijack] sorry

[squirrel]

shocking!

I swiped the horn out of my 55 to put in the Chevy II. I found a couple other horns I can put in the 55, they don't look good enough for the fast car, but they'll do for the slow one.

Looking into radiators...I found an aluminum cross flow that's wider than the one I have now, mostly fits 70s Cadillacs, has a 30" wide core. And the tanks look sort of like the old ones, with the pressed ribs. I might buy it, and see how it does. Of course I'd paint it black. $160, probably made in China also. If I make the brackets to mount this one at the headers, then I can easily replace it when on the road...it's a relatively common size, although the normal replacements at parts stores have plastic tanks and only one row of tubes.

[Scott Liggett]

GASP!!!!

[squirrel]

It honked for registration. I borrowed one from a fellow racer!

[Scott Liggett]

There is some angle between the transmission and the driveshaft...when I talk about pinion angle, I always mean relative to the transmission centerline. I think it wants around 3 degrees, and it's probably close to that now.

I put another odometer in the car, one I had in an old cluster. I changed the oil, put 5W30 in it to replace the 20W50. I also took a sample to send in for analysis.

I've been looking at replacing the radiator, but I'm not sure yet what I want to do. I might swipe the one out of the 55 and put something else in the 55, and be done with it.

I might also clean up some old steel wheels, to put the bias ply tires on the car again for driving around town. It looks better that way, even if it rides a bit funny.

I ordered a few new blower belts, cheap off ebay, genuine Gates surplus.

and I pulled the distributor this morning, and swapped out one of the advance weight springs, for a shorter one. now it starts at 20 degrees initial, starts advancing at 1500, all in by 2500 at 36 total. I still need to play with the idle speed and mixture. And it seems to be idling a bit rougher than it used to. I should probably do a compression test and look under the valve covers, just for fun.

I still need to find a horn.

Wait. Wait Wait!! Turk passed your tech card with no horn?!!!

[squirrel]

There is some angle between the transmission and the driveshaft...when I talk about pinion angle, I always mean relative to the transmission centerline. I think it wants around 3 degrees, and it's probably close to that now.

I put another odometer in the car, one I had in an old cluster. I changed the oil, put 5W30 in it to replace the 20W50. I also took a sample to send in for analysis.

I've been looking at replacing the radiator, but I'm not sure yet what I want to do. I might swipe the one out of the 55 and put something else in the 55, and be done with it.

I might also clean up some old steel wheels, to put the bias ply tires on the car again for driving around town. It looks better that way, even if it rides a bit funny.

I ordered a few new blower belts, cheap off ebay, genuine Gates surplus.

and I pulled the distributor this morning, and swapped out one of the advance weight springs, for a shorter one. now it starts at 20 degrees initial, starts advancing at 1500, all in by 2500 at 36 total. I still need to play with the idle speed and mixture. And it seems to be idling a bit rougher than it used to. I should probably do a compression test and look under the valve covers, just for fun.

I still need to find a horn.

[Deaf Bob]

Basically stockers is 5-7* down.. You could bring it up to 3* down..
Derby cars I like to make them 5-10* up because as the back of the car smashes up, the pinion goes down..
Having th pinion level causes oiling problems and the u-joint does not get worked to lube. Supposedly..
Might you have some twist?

[squirrel]

I'm pretty happy with how the car performed on Drag Week this year. There are a few things that cause problems...the blower was a big one, but I think we have that mostly figured out now. I probably ought to O ring the intake manifold, that would be a big help.

The new mufflers are great. The air shocks worked fine. The new seats are so-so...better than before, but still not very comfortable after a week. I'll keep looking for something better.

The new distributor has some issues, mainly my fault for not taking the effort to completely sort out the advance curve. It comes on too early, and I didn't tighten the stop things well enough, so they slipped. Loctite and a different spring should solve it. The points are still working OK after the 4000 mile drive. Although I never put a dwell meter on it. The plugs are the same ones I put in last September on the last week of Drag Week 14. They are kind of brown, but seem to be firing ok.

Oil consumption on this engine is surprisingly low, about 1 quart or less per thousand miles. The new transmission work and new converter seem to be doing fine, although I ought to pull the pan and see for sure. Never had any hints of slipping or noises out of it.

The driveline angle is something I had not really paid attention to. It seems to be slightly pinion down right now, I guess I need to see how much it changes at launch, and see if I can raise it up any to get rid of the remaining vibration around 45-55 mph.

[squirrel]

add about 70 miles more for when the odometer got stuck just outside of St Louis. This old car is getting wore out.

[corvettedad]

Congrats Jim, always like the Chevy II's and the blower don't hurt it.