Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

62 Chevy II AF/X

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Interesting it's a 3-row aluminum radiator as most higher performance ones are 2-row. Typically one 1" aluminum row is equivalent to a 3-core brass/copper radiator, so a two 1" row aluminum is like magical 6 core brass/copper radiator. Looks like that one has three 3/4" rows with an over all width of 2.25", which isn't bad at all. The ones that are 3" thick tend to require a lot more air speed to get air effectively through them.
    Escaped on a technicality.

    Comment


    • too many choices! I don't know what to do
      My fabulous web page

      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

      Comment


      • I do know the aluminum ones handle being beat on better than the brass/copper ones..
        Might have to do with age..
        We are using the same one in 3 cars and repaired 2 times..
        Copper/brass warp easier. (a consideration when your wheels hit the pavement after a 2 wheeled launch)

        Comment


        • The copper/brass radiator the right size is about $200 or so, which is about 30% higher than the aluminum. They all seem to have problems, so I guess it doesn't really matter too much. The important thing might be to use one that I can find a replacement for without any problem...like, one that they stock at the typical chain parts stores.
          My fabulous web page

          "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

          Comment


          • Originally posted by squirrel View Post
            The copper/brass radiator the right size is about $200 or so, which is about 30% higher than the aluminum. They all seem to have problems, so I guess it doesn't really matter too much. The important thing might be to use one that I can find a replacement for without any problem...like, one that they stock at the typical chain parts stores.
            That drives a lot of the car part decisions I've made. Often the EFI stuff is far easier to locate and get than Buick stuff that is always special ordered.
            Escaped on a technicality.

            Comment


            • I haven't tried yet.. Kinda afraid to on a "good" radiator..
              Is it difficult to solder aluminum?
              I fixed this one with JBWeld, the slow curing kind as it will creep into the fin area without needing poked.. And a plate over it with holes for the JB to ooze around..
              I suppose I should try on a junker...just don't have one yet..

              Comment


              • I hauled the leaking-but-sealed-with-stop-leak radiator to the scrap pile...oh well.

                I got my new blower belts, and put one on the car. I also found a set of 3.50 used original Ford rear gears for a reasonable price on ebay, and bought them. I'll put them in the "race" third member when they get here, and install it in the car, and see how it does.

                I put the bias ply L78-15 tires on some original steel 15x5" 55 chevy wheels, after blasting and painting the wheels black. They fit pretty well centered in the wheelwell side-side. They should clear the stock fender lip, if it were there. I did some measuring on the slicks, and the Cragar GT wheels, and they might fit ok inside the stock fender lip, or they might not. I might mount one up and see. I was thinking about what it would take to get rid of the radius...I can buy a wheel opening patch panel for about $80 per side, and could probably tack them on and finish and paint them. Just a thought, not sure if I want to do this or not. also I need to confirm the slicks would fit first, which is iffy. And those wheels weigh a ton, which will slow the car down a bit.

                I've been thinking about the 9.99 NHRA stuff, and I'm pretty sure I just want the car to run tens. It makes life so much easier. I have a couple nine second runs on it, so I can already brag that it's a nine second car...even if it never runs a nine again!

                Click image for larger version

Name:	20150927_200147.jpg
Views:	52
Size:	978.3 KB
ID:	1060562
                My fabulous web page

                "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

                Comment


                • also I pulled the valve covers, and looked things over...nothing to report. Which is good.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	20150928_151833.jpg
Views:	55
Size:	1.26 MB
ID:	1060565
                  Attached Files
                  My fabulous web page

                  "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

                  Comment


                  • Spotless , don't you run any oil ?.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by squirrel View Post
                      I hauled the leaking-but-sealed-with-stop-leak radiator to the scrap pile...oh well.

                      I got my new blower belts, and put one on the car. I also found a set of 3.50 used original Ford rear gears for a reasonable price on ebay, and bought them. I'll put them in the "race" third member when they get here, and install it in the car, and see how it does.

                      I put the bias ply L78-15 tires on some original steel 15x5" 55 chevy wheels, after blasting and painting the wheels black. They fit pretty well centered in the wheelwell side-side. They should clear the stock fender lip, if it were there. I did some measuring on the slicks, and the Cragar GT wheels, and they might fit ok inside the stock fender lip, or they might not. I might mount one up and see. I was thinking about what it would take to get rid of the radius...I can buy a wheel opening patch panel for about $80 per side, and could probably tack them on and finish and paint them. Just a thought, not sure if I want to do this or not. also I need to confirm the slicks would fit first, which is iffy. And those wheels weigh a ton, which will slow the car down a bit.

                      I've been thinking about the 9.99 NHRA stuff, and I'm pretty sure I just want the car to run tens. It makes life so much easier. I have a couple nine second runs on it, so I can already brag that it's a nine second car...even if it never runs a nine again!

                      [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1060562[/ATTACH]
                      It's great as is , don't F with a good thing . Just play with it and enjoy it ! , the car that is .

                      Comment


                      • thanks! you know how it is, can't leave well enough alone. I've been messing with a lot of little things since Drag Week, getting ready for Drag Weekend.

                        My fabulous web page

                        "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

                        Comment


                        • That 3.50 gear might be a good go between gear. I bet its decent on the highway and might slow it down just enough to not worry about hitting that 9 second zone again.
                          1968 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 340 with a 360
                          1997 Jeep Cherokee off road toy/driver. lifted, lockers, stroked 4.0

                          Comment


                          • I liked the other wheels better. The black doesn't do it for me. That is the cleanest head I have ever seen! Have you thought about bracket racing it?
                            http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                            1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                            PB 60' 1.49
                            ​​​​​​

                            Comment


                            • I agree with the above!
                              Local person
                              sigpic

                              Comment


                              • I love how it is now, it's a bit throwback, and unique at the same time.
                                I like the attitude of the car when you had the aluminum slots on the back way back in June 2014. That fatter tire on wider black steel wheel would be cool too.
                                Looks like you prefer the narrower wheels lately so I could see making some changes to the rear wheel openings to keep it interesting.
                                Last edited by mike343sharpstick; September 30, 2015, 10:48 AM.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X