Love it you will be hanging the hoops by spring!
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62 Chevy II AF/X
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[QUOTE=STINEY;828118]Okay, so you don't suck as much as I originally figured. $500 is probably a pretty fair price, given the butcherage.
I would have no problem what so ever paying $500 for this starting point , what can you get for $500 now a days ?. It's not perfect , so there is nothing holding you back from cutting it up and doing what ever you want to do with it . Most of what is missing you don't want or would replace anyhow and the parts that you need that are missing wont be hard to find . I love these cars , my first car was a 64 Chevy II . I'll be watching , now hurry up and get started . hahahaha
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If it's not raining too much tomorrow, I'll go looking for some more parts.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Is that an 8" Ford under that?Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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same rear as in a 55-64 full size chevy, sort of. It's lighter duty.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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I know where a Nova body is sitting Jim, it's got your front clip. It's in Needles Ca. Shoot me a P.M. if your interested. He was talking $500 for the shell. It's a 2dr but I can't be positive on the year, 62-64. There's no axles on the car, it would take some work to get it on a trailer.
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Hmmmmm..... might be headed to Needles for something else for the car. We'll see. I looked at a couple parts cars today, one has a nice trunk/rear on it, the other is a bit rusty but has decent front end parts. I might be able to make a deal on parts off of one of them, we'll see. Sucks when the parts cars you find cost more than the car you're building! I also started trying to fix the right rear subframe rail. It's bent, and cracked, and I think I can fix it by removing it and straightening it. It's not very thick, maybe 19 gauge? I started drilling spot welds. And I rough straightened the dents in the floor.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Looks like I might be able to just buy parts off one of those parts cars I found. And I did some more work on the trunk floor, I cut out the subframe rail, straightened it, and welded it back in. I will probably get the corner piece welded back in tomorrow, and then get the quarter panel to fit better. I also ordered front floor pans, summit has them with free shipping for a reasonable price. I also test fit a TH400 case...I will need to cut open the tunnel to make it fit, especially with the trans shield on it which is needed to run 10s. I also ordered some 20 and 22 gauge steel sheet, for fixing the floor, etc.
I took all the little parts off the dash and firewall, except the steering and brakes. I kind of like being able to roll it around and steer it, and use the parking brake.
I've been looking at weight savings....I will probably cut out the inner door panels, and use a strap to hold the windows up. I'll probably leave the vent windows, and replace at least the side glass with Lexan. I took off the driver side door (it needed some adjustment of the hinges, which can't be done with the door on), and weighed it...60 lbs, complete with hinges and windows etc. I'm going to see if I can get away without using subframe connectors, but I'll probably add sill bars to the roll cage. If I were really serious about weight, I'd get someone to tig weld a chrome moly cage for me. I might look into that...see how much it would cost.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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After you get the cage in put it on three jack stands and measure the twist. That may help determine if it needs subframe connectors.
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