Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

62 Chevy II AF/X

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #91
    Here's a question.... why do the shackles usually go in front?
    Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
    1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
    1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
    1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
    1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
    1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

    Comment


    • #92
      Originally posted by milner351 View Post
      Jim - what's your plan for reinforcement of the rails? Are you going to run a tube from the rail up to the firewall?
      That's the plan. I'm thinking 1.5" chrome moly, .065" wall or something similar.

      The more I look at the stock front frame rails, the more I like them. Strong and light.
      My fabulous web page

      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

      Comment


      • #93
        Originally posted by BBR View Post
        Here's a question.... why do the shackles usually go in front?
        Usually it's because the steering wants to be at the end of the spring with the "solid" hangar, so you get less bump steer
        Last edited by squirrel; December 20, 2013, 01:15 PM.
        My fabulous web page

        "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

        Comment


        • #94
          That certainly explains the "wandering" feel when a Jeep CJ hits a bump. Steering box up front, shackles up front too.
          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

          Comment


          • #95
            more floor work. And more front frame work. I got the trans crossmember bolted in at both ends in it's new rearward location. I had to add some metal to the bottom of the firewall, to meet up with the new floor pan, because of rust. On the front frame, I did a little trimming to make it look pretty, and I tacked on the spring perches where I think they need to be. They're pretty much at the ends of the frame rail, and off to the side so the edge of the spring is even with the edge of the frame, for maximum lateral stability...and the frame rail is stronger on the sides, than in the middle.
            Attached Files
            My fabulous web page

            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

            Comment


            • #96
              this thing is light!

              Attached Files
              My fabulous web page

              "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

              Comment


              • #97
                Naah! You are BUFF under that loose shirt from all that body work! (double meaning)

                Comment


                • #98
                  Nice progress Jim! I look forward to each update!
                  Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
                  74 Nova Project
                  66 Mustang GT Project

                  92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
                  79 Chevy Truck Project
                  1956 Cadillac Project

                  Comment


                  • #99
                    thanks! Got a few more things done this morning. Finished welding in the driver side floor last night, and cut the tunnel out today. Finished trimming the stuff off the driver side front frame rail, and tacked on the spring hangars. Then I put the axle under it, and tacked on the perches. Caster 6 degrees, centered side to side, I guess that's where it goes. Installed the spindles, steering arms, and tie rod. Then put the bearings in the willwood hubs, and installed them and my set of "rollers" centerlines. I dug out the old 396 I built in high school...it's just a block and heads and intake now, but it's good for mockup. Bolted a TH400 case to the back of it, and set it in there. It needs to move back just a smidgen. It's offset to the pass side about 5/8" like the original engine was. Speedway sells some 55-57 fenderwell headers for a reasonable price, that look like they'll fit just fine. I have to figure out the tie rod. It will want to run into the oil pan, so I need to decide what to do about that...it's possible that the notched pan I have on the 427 already, which I got to fit it in the 55, will clear. I might need to play with the tie rod end at the steering box end, to get the right height, I don't know yet. The axle kit did not come with the drag link, I need to measure the length and order some parts for it. Probably use a Heim end at the wheel end, and a tie rod end at the steering gear end.
                    Attached Files
                    My fabulous web page

                    "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

                    Comment


                    • Motor mounts. I'll fill in the middle of the mounts with a plate. Next up: I guess I need to pull the trans shield out of the 55 so I can put it in here and do the trans tunnel.
                      Attached Files
                      My fabulous web page

                      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

                      Comment


                      • does that broom ever get a break? Nice!
                        Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

                        Comment


                        • you make me feel so bloody lazy !!!!!!!

                          Comment


                          • Continued great work! I have an excuse as I'm still in NOLA. Once home I'll need a new excuse.

                            Dan

                            Comment


                            • Thanks! I did a little more over the holiday break...things are moving slow, with all the family fun going on. I cut the inner panel out of the driver door, and got it mounted back on the car, and aligned ok. I also cut the inner panel out of the hood, and now it wiggles and wobbles all over the place. I plan to put some tubing in it to brace it, and see how it works. And I messed with the front fenders, fixing some dents, filling some holes, removing some bracing so they'll be flexible too...and lighter. I was originally going to "tilt" the front end, but now I think I'll just attach the fenders and make some new extra light hood hinges and leave it sort of like a normal car. I also found some pics of the Patriot 55 chevy fenderwell headers that only cost a bit over $200, they look like they'll work ok. And Gary helped me measure where the blower will sit....gonna stick up quite a bit further than it does on the 55. The pulley will stick out of the hood, so I"ll need to cut a real long opening in the hood for it.
                              Attached Files
                              My fabulous web page

                              "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

                              Comment


                              • I think it looks great just the way it is now !

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X