Just in case... I found the set I chopped up for the Ranger on Steve's Nova Site for cheap.
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62 Chevy II AF/X
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Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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I still think I'm going to make some...unless maybe a set appears magically. I haven't seen any for sale lately. I decided to move the engine back 7/8", it just barely clears the firewall now. I swiped the trans shield from the 55, put it on the mockup trans in the Chevy II, and discovered I need to do some more floor work. It's in there, but the hole I need to cover keeps getting bigger!My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Did you test pull the distributor?
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The distributor has plenty of room, at least an inch behind it, and yes it comes out with the cap still on it. Driver side valve cover has about 1/8" to the firewall, at the lip. That's the tightest pointMy fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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No, but I want a hood on it. It's a pain, but necessary to look right.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Originally posted by Russell View PostWhat is that? Tubeing?TomOverdrive is overrated
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Originally posted by Huskinhano View PostBoyles gas law. The hotter the gas, the thinner it is and the more pressure there is. The exhaust is going to be so hot, Squirrel can use 1/8" tubing to flow the same amount of exhaust gas as a conventional BBC.Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.
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Yeah, stealth tubing....
I've run the blower motor with 2.5" pipes before, it does still work.
I've been messing with my carburetors. I bought a few Carter 9755S 750 cfm Competition Series AFBs, on ebay. All were made in 1995. Two of them had some corrosion, so I bead blasted the outsides to make them look more like the old AFBs, which were just raw aluminum. These ones all came with some fake polish shiny type finish, which just doesn't look right. But it's gone now. I also need to get some slot Fillister head screws to hold them together, the Torx crap doesn't belong.
I've been looking at the jets, and reading about using these carbs with a blower. Interesting stuff, the more I read the more I realize I need to get them installed and running, and watch the O2 sensor to see what they do in real life. A few guys claim they need to be boost referenced, but most don't think it's necessary. I never boost referenced my Holleys, and they seem to work ok...although they do run rather rich under cruising conditions, usually around 12.x AFR. I've tried leaning them out, and never got too far...they are usually running on the idle transition circuit under cruise conditions, so jetting doesn't do much.
The AFBs I got were jetted in strange and mysterious ways. One had 86 and 100 jets in it, instead of the stock 113 and 107 jets. I wonder how that worked? Anyways, I might see what it would take to get these carbs installed on the 55 and see what they do. Linkage, fuel lines, etc will need to be changed.Last edited by squirrel; January 7, 2014, 07:29 AM.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Originally posted by squirrel View PostYeah, stealth tubing....
I've run the blower motor with 2.5" pipes before, it does still work.
I've been messing with my carburetors. I bought a few Carter 9755S 750 cfm Competition Series AFBs, on ebay. All were made in 1995. Two of them had some corrosion, so I bead blasted the outsides to make them look more like the old AFBs, which were just raw aluminum. These ones all came with some fake polish shiny type finish, which just doesn't look right. But it's gone now. I also need to get some slot Fillister head screws to hold them together, the Torx crap doesn't belong.
I've been looking at the jets, and reading about using these carbs with a blower. Interesting stuff, the more I read the more I realize I need to get them installed and running, and watch the O2 sensor to see what they do in real life. A few guys claim they need to be boost referenced, but most don't think it's necessary. I never boost referenced my Holleys, and they seem to work ok...although they do run rather rich under cruising conditions, usually around 12.x AFR. I've tried leaning them out, and never got too far...they are usually running on the idle transition circuit under cruise conditions, so jetting doesn't do much.
The AFBs I got were jetted in strange and mysterious ways. One had 86 and 100 jets in it, instead of the stock 113 and 107 jets. I wonder how that worked? Anyways, I might see what it would take to get these carbs installed on the 55 and see what they do. Linkage, fuel lines, etc will need to be changed.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Back in the late 70's early 80's guys were jetting down for economy.. Saw alot of burned valves at that time..
The "trick" was as small jets possible for cruising, larger jets in secondaries to make up the too small jets in the primaries..
Yes majority of the cars were DOGS,
I tried it.. Didn't care for it.. Did my jetting the normal way... Suddenly it was the "new" trick" !!
Got a question on your headers... Do you use thicker walled headers because of the blower or just what is out there $$ wise?
Reason I ask is a guy was saying blower motors must run manifolds not headers because of boost and heat.. Claims heat will warp standard headers.. I tried to add 2 cents... That pretty much all blower motors I seen were headered.. He countered that they were thicker or wrapped.. I'm not gonna go back and reargue it.. Just got me thinking..
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I suspect he might be confused by turbo applications. You can make turbo headers but it's difficult - they love to expand and contract large amounts and therefore crack. I have a friend in the Detroit area who is one of the few with the skills to make these live. Cast iron turbo manifolds often have an expansion joint especially if it's a long Diesel like say a Cummins 6 cylinder.
EDIT: My turbo Mercedes Diesel does not have an expansion joint but the manifold is fairly short and I'd guess that there's less heat coming from 3 liters. However, it's a pretty stout hunk o' cast iron with pretty thick walls.
I agree with you that most Rootes blown engines I've seen run headers (or zoomies, depending).
DanLast edited by DanStokes; January 7, 2014, 03:56 PM.
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I have over 90k miles on the headers in the 55, they are doing fine, never blown a gasket either.
I ordered a buttload of parts today, since I sold my 57 pickup. It'll be Xmas in JanuaryMy fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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