When you put it that way
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62 Chevy II AF/X
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Header evac... Crank Case Evac Kit Our Price: $59.00 Copper Header Gaskets Our Price: $29.00 Header Wrap Our Price: $20.00 Reduces crankcase pressure throughout entire rpm range for increased piston ring seal, reduced intake charge contamination and fewer oil leaks. Track and dyno tests prove increases in engine performance. Welding required. Cannot be used on cars w/ mufflers. Includes 2 each: Oil Separators/Breathers, Breather/Filler Cap Grommets, One-Way Check Valve and Weld-In Nipple for header collector, use with 5/8” diameter hose.....CANNOT BE USED ON CARS WITH MUFFLERS
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I've read quite a few posts about this and there are about half that say it works with mufflers. There are a lot of variables.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Originally posted by squirrel View PostI've read quite a few posts about this and there are about half that say it works with mufflers. There are a lot of variables.
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They generally will draw a vacuum with mufflers, until the rpm gets too high and the back pressure goes up. It works better with straight thru mufflers, than with chambered mufflers.
I mainly put it on for racing use, when the exhaust system will be removed. There's a PCV system also. It's an experiment, only cost me about $15 to put the header evac on one side.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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I have a friend who has built a number of emissions-legal hot rods using this system to draw AIR (not crankcase vapors) into the 3-way cat so it will light off the NoX biscuit. Works great and avoids having a AIR pump. Those cars run mufflers - but maybe don't make huge HP though they are performance-oriented.
Dan
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That's a neat idea!
Incidently, my car is emissions legal. Just because it's old.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Originally posted by squirrel View PostThey generally will draw a vacuum with mufflers, until the rpm gets too high and the back pressure goes up.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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It might be working ok, didn't notice anything funky with the new setup. But...there are other fun things to deal with. I drove the car to Tucson this afternoon. It was hot out, and the temp was mostly in the 230 range while driving around. Didn't boil over, it just looks scary on the gauge. The new fan shroud isn't helping as much as I hoped it would. There is one other thing I can try, the intake has no water crossover, there are two 3/4" hoses at the front that send water to the remote thermostat housing. There are also two threaded holes at the back of the intake, that I could plumb to the thermostat, to get more coolant flowing thru the system. Those hoses are kind of small!
Went to the races around 6 or so, and Steven met me there. He got video of my two passes, hopefully it'll show up on youtube soon. this is the first time I drove to the strip and ran on bias tires and slicks. The first run, hooked ok, then started going wonky like the tires were soft or something. I got out of it early, and put more air in the slicks. I started with them at 12, so I went up to 15. They're 7.0-29.5 tires, kind of skinny, mounted on 7" wheels. Second run felt better, just the normal "floating" feeling you get with slicks. But about 2/3 or so down the track, it felt like it starved for fuel or something, so I got off it.
Also noticed more oil around the front of the car, on the firewall, and the front crossmember that's under the front of the engine. And on the frame rail...and axle...etc. Looks like it might be coming from the front seal. I guess I need to explore, maybe change the seal.
But I did make it to the strip and run and made it home again. And this was in not optimum driving conditions. I guess the car is coming along, I'll get it all sorted out by September.
Gratuitous time slips. If at first you don't succeed, there's always a second chance to not succeed.
My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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One more thing. I left the 3.25 gears in it. The last time I ran it, I had 26" tall drag radials. This time, those tall slicks. So that may account for most of the big increase in 60' times, about two tenths. Hopefully 3.70 gears will get it moving quicker againMy fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Changed front seal. Swapped to 38 tooth lower pulley, had the 34 on it before. Upper is still 33.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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seems to make around 7 psi now, vs around 4-5. Although I didn't give it a full pass, there are speed limits, and the roads are too short, etc.
I got to playing around with the crank case ventilation system some more. I was wondering what's going on, so I connected a pressure/vacuum gauge to the dipstick tube. Went for a drive, it is usually around 10 in vacuum, gets up to around 15 under certain cruising conditions. Getting on it for a little bit has it drop to just a slight vacuum, under 1", but I didn't see pressure, although it's kind of hard to say what happens with a quarter mile of full throttle acceleration--just can't do that on public roads.
I'm working on making an adapter to relocate the evac breather to the fuel pump hole. Then I'll put a normal open breather in the valve cover. This should get it to have zero vacuum, and hopefully still keep it from building pressure when it's working hard. The plumbing for this is interesting, I think I can make it work.
pic of the pressure gauge connection. I made a 1/8" to 3/8" adapter fitting on the lathe. Somehow I broke two little drill bits, making it. Oops.
My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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