Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

[horsewidower]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Road race Ranchero is cool. Hot Rod featured this one:

http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_0801_1965_ford_ranchero/index.html

[cantvalve16]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Here are some pics of what I did earlier this week. Pulled the "floors" loose. They were aluminum pop riveted in and siliconed around the edges. I guess we do what we can how we can, right? The plate on the seat in the first pic was covering the drivers side floor hole. It is much thicker than the floor pan and will be replaced with the correct guage steel. All of these were pulled loose with a hammer and prybar.





This is the block off between the cab area and underbed tool box. It will be cleaned up and welded in (instead of silicone) once the floors are patched up.


The metal around these patches is pretty solid. The car sat in a field for a few years with no way to keep water from puddling up. You are witness to the results. Before the pans are welded up, I plan to make some subframe connectors from square tubing. The plan is to make the transition from front subframe to rear look seemless. I will make the connectors as straight as possible and weld up the new floor around them.

In the handling department, I have a stock rear swaybar from a 5.0 Mustang that I will make some brackets for and install when I get some time.

The suspension is far from the way I prefer it to function. The front shocks are Lakewood drag shocks. The front suspension bushings and perches are worn out. The driver's leaf spring is only attached in the front because the shackle bracket broke loose from the body. With air shocks pumped up in the rear to keep the tires from tagging the quarters too badly, this thing handles like a pig. Can't wait to get some improvements under this thing.

I'll be sure to get some pics up as progress happens.

[trukluvr]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Any progress to report?

[cantvalve16]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Well, I almost traded this one for two old chevy trucks today. When it came down to it, I really like what i have.

My wife and I have saved enough money for a house that I can afford to drop a little cash toward the way of the car. Within the next week or two, I plan to weld in new floors. I am still getting parts together to put my Trick Flow headed 302 in. Gotta get some headers and a carb.

I am gonna be pulling out the 351W and trying to sell it. I really want to put a 5 speed in it with the new motor. I would trade the 351 and C4 for a good 5 speed setup. The car already has the pedals in it as it was originally a 260/ 3(?) speed car.

Been questioning lately if this is the car I need right now, but after today's experience with the 2 trucks, I think it will stay for a while.

[trukluvr]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Looking forward to more updates. I know I would have a hard time gettin rid of that Ranch if it was mine.

[Huskinhano]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

I wouldn't worry about installing a rear sway bar. Leaf springs do not need sway bars as much as a coil spring does. A leaf spring tends to act as a sway bar because as the car rolls in a turn, it twists the leaf from front to back which resist and tries to keep the car level. A coil spring can't do this. That's why you'll see a big rear bar on a coil spring and a small to non on a leaf spring. Installing a more solid front bushing on the front of the leaf spring such as a poly or aluminum bushing also decreases roll as will a Panhard bar. Do not run a Panhard with an aluminum bushing or you'll tear up your frame rails since the two will fight each other.

I plan on doing some mods to my 66 Mustang. A lot of guys that I know on other forums who road race Mustangs do not run a rear bar. It makes the car twitchy and makes it want to swap ends.

[cantvalve16]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Good advise, Husk. That makes sense about the sway bar, but what do the track guys do?

[Huskinhano]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

I hang out at www.vintage-mustang.com A lot of guys who road race have shockingly simple rear rear suspension, nothing fancy, no discs even. Besides decent shocks you'll probably find a Panhard bar. Guys who had rear sway bars have removed them. Even the front suspensions can be fairly stock. The biggies are rollerized spring perches to eliminate the binding from the rubber. The stock ones give funny artificial non linear spring rates. The roller ones just work nice and smooth. Next, adjustable strut rods with a spherical end. Makes it a lot easier to set caster and again, allows the suspension to work smoother, more predictable.

Lower your upper control arms 1" and back 1/8". Originally by Klaus Arning at Ford, who was a suspension engineer who worked on the Mustang. He came up with this modification to work with the independent rear suspension the Mustang was suppose to get but the bean counters thought Ford wouldn't sell more then 100,000 Mustangs. Any way Klaus gave this mod to Shelby to use. This makes a big difference. It raises the roll center and improves the caster curve. It's suppose to make a huge difference. I'm trying to decide wether to to this or use a set of Global West upper control arms. But again, a lot of knowlegable guys just keep the stock upper control arms relocated 1" down and do quite well! This guy's suspension is pretty stock http://www.cardomain.com/ride/667160 I've talked with quite a bit for advice. He has stock control arms 1" down and runs with late model Audis, Vettes and Porches. He told me the Audi guys were shocked to see how stock his suspension was. BTW, check out his road race videos.



Using the GW arms present some issues.You cannot use them on anything up to 66 Falcon or Mustang if you use 67 & later spindles. The later spindles have slightly different tie rod arm off set on the spindles that cause some serious handling issues to the point of being undriveable unless you use a bump steer kit. No Granada discs unless you use a bump steer kit. You can find a ton of info thereon suspensions. I have also been reading a good book by Bob Bolles http://www.amazon.com/Stock-Car-Setu...4831400&sr=1-1 Great book!!!!

[cantvalve16]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

The following are some pics of my floorpan replacement. I started with just the passenger side. Used a sawsall, grinder with cutoff wheel and grinding wheels, hammer, and prybar for removal of the old sheetmetal. Then started fitting my square tubing in which will connect the two subframes. That is as far as I have gotten so far. Got about 5-6 hours in it so far. The last pic is of the pile of old floor pan material and of the T5 I just got to slide in with the 302. Fab work is a mess so please excuse the clutter in the pics. :

[Weldangrind]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Kind of hard to tell, but are the front and rear sub frames at the same level, meaning that the front portion of the square tube has yet to be cut to length? It looks as though the square tube could be cut to mate with the front sub frame. Once you weld the square tube in, do you intend to cap part of the sub frame to take full advantage of the square tube, or just weld around the three existing sub frame sides?

[cantvalve16]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

I thought the floor would act like the cap to the subframe. The new floor will be fully welded to the old subs, not spot welded like before. Any advice? I will be working on it today.
The subframes are at different levels. Probably a 1.5 to 2 in. drop from back to front. I have marked the tubing where to cut, but went through my last cutoff wheels and blades and had to stop Saturday. Got some more now! Let the mayhem begin!

[Schtauffer]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Totally dig it. Awesome "work truck".

[cantvalve16]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Long time for an update. Some things have been done since the last update. New front suspension in the form of stock replacement parts. Granada disc brake swap with braided soft lines.

The 351 and C4 have been sold. I am now in the "replace previous owner's mistakes" mode. The stock towers were hacked to make the 351 fit. The exhaust was simply hideous. There is a film of oil everwhere. Today has been stripping paint and cleaning day in the engine compartment as well as squaring up the radiator support hole that was previously hacked bigger. Should be able to finish cleanup on engine compartment tomorrow and begin cutting out the driver's floor for replacment.

Drivetrain plans include a roller 302 shortblock w/ a Weiand X-cellerator, Holley carb, TrickFlow heads and valvetrain, Blackjack headers, summit exhaust kit, '94 Cobra 5 speed and all the supporting cast.

Did I mention that I have about 2 solid weeks to thrash on this thing to get it to daily driver status? I have blocked out my schedule for the next 2 weeks to make us a 2 car family again. So, here we go. Oh, and pics to follow... maybe tonight but prolly tomorrow.

[Bamfster]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Thats the way, jump in head first and get 'er done! I like the way you built the frame connectors. Keep us posted.

[Weldangrind]

Re: Cantvalve16's '64 Ranchero

Thats the way, jump in head first and get 'er done! I like the way you built the frame connectors. Keep us posted.

X2. I'm looking forward to seeing the frame connectors. Vegaman might choose to do something similar on his car.

How did you connect the square tube o the front subframe? Now that you've explained it, I can see how the square tube butts up against the rear sub, but is on top of the front sub. I agree that the floor pan, properly welded, acts as a cap for the old subs. Nice work!