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The War Wagon... decaring wars on the grocery store since 1966

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  • Not trying to scare you but if the tv cable isn't real close you could kill a trans in a mile. And on that note my hi-perf 200-4r is going to meet its maker Monday...off topic.

    Did you check the fluid level while the trans was hot? You should have. Anytime I've swapped a trans & converter they have taken close to 10 quarts of fluid to be full. An auxiliary cooler and deep tranny pan only add to the volume of fluid needed to fill the system, sans those two items the system could/should take 7 quarts.

    To get real close on the tv cable setting:

    1) install cable in throttle/tv cable bracket...mine are home-made to fit the applications because I haven't found an aftermarket version I like and they are EXPENSIVE to be trying one then another until some picky snit is happy.

    2) install cable end on throttle arm of carb...late AFBs have a hole at the bottom of that arm that is CLOSE to the correct location to connect a tv cable but should have a geometry corrector installed. Everybody makes them (Jeg's, Summit, Edelbrock, etc, etc) for a variety of carbs but each brand/style of carb requires its own so shop with that in mind.

    3) make sure the tv cable adjustment slider is all the way to the rear...there is a "button" to push to allow it to retract...may have to do each manually...push button with one hand, move slider with other

    4) with the engine & key OFF, move the throttle lever to full throttle with your hand. The tv cable adjuster SHOULD pull out on its own, evidenced by audible clicking. The idea is to have full throttle & full tv pull at the same time.

    I'm sure you did all this as it should be laid out in the instructions.

    Even if the e-brake was dragging now, did you do anything to make it drag any worse than it was before the trans swap? You can check to make sure this isn't an issue but IMO if you didn't touch the e-brakes during the swap, nothing should have changed. I wouldn't worry about rear gears yet.

    And finally, the difference between a th350's first gear (2.52) and a 700r4's first gear (3.06), ANYTHING should act as if it instantly had 18% more balls than it did before the swap.

    JM or quarters worth
    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...n-block-wanted

    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...-Blue-Turd(le)

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    • IDK what type carb your Summit is...



      Later model Q-Jets should have the tv stud in the correct location already, being factory parts and such.

      Hope this helps.

      If I think about it I can take pics of early & late Q-Jet throttle levers to show which style will already have the correct tv stud location.
      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...n-block-wanted

      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...-Blue-Turd(le)

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      • thanks, it didnt have a stud on it, the TV made ez from Bowtie ODs fit perfectly, followed their instructions to the letter. Leave it to GM tho to make something that is so simple yet so complex be the one thing that can grenade a transmission in no time at all lol

        I hadnt planned on touching the Ebrake, but the cable system for it had a small bar that connected it to the trans cross memember. since I changed the crossmember, I couldnt get the OE bar that holds the cable to hook back on so right now the cables are kind of floating in the wind, there is a chance that it is still engaged. I was really tired yesterday so after I limped it down the street and pissed off my neighbors, I parked it and figured I'd mess with it today. I guess the info I read online was wrong, will have to go pick up another thing of trans fluid today. I dont have to work this weekend so I'll play with it some. I doubt I hurt anything cuz I hardly even moved the car. just hoping its something stupid simple.
        Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

        War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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        • once again, if it wasnt for this website, I'd have been calling on a tow truck more than once.

          Put a gallon of fluid into the trans, on top of what was already in there and that seemed to have fixed the issue of why it felt like the brakes were dragging, which they were not after all.

          I need to call Bowtie OD and talk with them, Im trying to get the TV cable set, ive got it close I can tell. I drove it to the gas station and around the block, with moderate throttle it will go into what I think is 2nd and 3rd. It wont shift into 4th though, idk if its because I didnt go fast enough, the rear gearing is wrong for this trans or if I am really starting out in 2nd and its shifting into 4th gear. I need to bite the bullet and get a tachometer to see what the engine is doing. I need to do some more tweaking because it will rev pretty high before it will change into the next gear. but the shifts are firm and positive.

          only other thing I can think of is that the vacuum switch for the OD lock-up isnt grounded enough so its not shifting into 4th gear for that reason.


          any ideas? cuz Im stumped.




          *probably wont drive it again till monday when I can call Bowtie. I dont want to break anything. plus with the center part of the H-pipe cut out, its extremely loud, the cabin fills with fumes quickly and I am suprised I have not had the cops called on me. well, sort of surprised, pretty much everyone at the office knows I own what is probably the only gold '60s GM full size wagon in the county. for now I may just go to the auto parts store, get some exhaust tubing and cut out the rest of my factory exhaust, which is rubbing the tires anyway and just make some home made dumps with some cheap mufflers for now. or see if I can salvage the stock ones, tho they are pretty much junk, one looks like its mostly Jb weld.
          Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

          War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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          • Start with the ground since thats the easiest!


            Go the Bruab route- Cherry bombs right of fhe headers.
            Local person
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            • Have you checked/adjusted your mechanical linkage? If you put the gear selector (on the steering column) and trans lever (on the side of the trans) in neutral or high gear (pick ONE) then make sure the mechanical linkage is adjusted so that the two are in agreement. I'm at a loss for words to paint a better picture. You want the transmission to be in the gear that the gear indicator indicates. This is the only way I know to do it using a 4-speed auto trans and a column indicator with less than 4 forwards gears. You will have PRND32 if column originally was used with a 3-speed auto trans OR PRND3 if the column was used with a Powerglide. Does this make sense yet? The point is that you won't be mechanically able to pull the trans down into the lower gear(s), because of the column's original shift pattern, but the rest will be there.

              As far as the transmission itself, shifting is a function of hydraulic pressure & throttle position (transmitted through the tv cable), more throttle the higher rpm before it shifts to the next gear, and less throttle the lower rpm when it shifts. It will always take off in first gear unless you have a full manual valve body. Ideally it should shift into high gear at light to medium throttle at roughly 45-50mph, any higher than that the tv cable tension needs to be backed off a tooth or two. I know it's not always easy to get out and test drive it to highway speeds or more.
              Last edited by 68scott385; June 28, 2014, 07:58 PM.
              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...n-block-wanted

              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...-Blue-Turd(le)

              Comment


              • Originally posted by 68scott385 View Post
                Have you checked/adjusted your mechanical linkage? If you put the gear selector (on the steering column) and trans lever (on the side of the trans) in neutral or high gear (pick ONE) then make sure the mechanical linkage is adjusted so that the two are in agreement. I'm at a loss for words to paint a better picture. You want the transmission to be in the gear that the gear indicator indicates. This is the only way I know to do it using a 4-speed auto trans and a column indicator with less than 4 forwards gears. You will have PRND32 if column originally was used with a 3-speed auto trans OR PRND3 if the column was used with a Powerglide. Does this make sense yet? The point is that you won't be mechanically able to pull the trans down into the lower gear(s), because of the column's original shift pattern, but the rest will be there.

                As far as the transmission itself, shifting is a function of hydraulic pressure & throttle position (transmitted through the tv cable), more throttle the higher rpm before it shifts to the next gear, and less throttle the lower rpm when it shifts. It will always take off in first gear unless you have a full manual valve body. Ideally it should shift into high gear at light to medium throttle at roughly 45-50mph, any higher than that the tv cable tension needs to be backed off a tooth or two. I know it's not always easy to get out and test drive it to highway speeds or more.
                I get what you are saying. since the car had the powerglide originally, the indicator on the column says PRNDL (low) I spent several hours fiddling with the lokar column adapter when I installed it and I do have full sweep of the gears. The gears on my trans should be P,R,N,OD,D,2,1. the pointer doesnt line up with the column indicator, so I count over the number of clicks. and I feel it engage when it goes into OD. but I can select all of those gears at will. I know that part is correct, spent more than enough time working on that part.

                I probably just need to adjust the TV cable a little more, I think I have it close. Ive not had the car up to WOT yet, mostly just 1/4-half throttle.

                I'll get a tachometer installed on it soon, as well as use my GPS to get the mph when it shifts, in case the speedo is off. and I'll probably do like what Brian did for now exhaust wise... , just so I can hear myself think, and not garner any attention from my fellow law enforcement there are a few who I work with who are not fond of modified cars, and have been known to write tickets.
                Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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                • Shift it manually.. My suburban needle is disengaged, can feel each shift manually.. If you don't go fast enough to engage OD, you can shift to d and feel it shift back into 3rd.. The suburban has 3:73 and ALWAYS shifts out of 1st by 15 mph..

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                  • The pointer needle is adjustable. It is attached to the column by a cable. The bracket on the column has adustability on it. It has a small hex head screw holding it. It is also something you would need to remember to disconnect if you ever need to drop the column. Easy to snap the cable.
                    BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

                    Resident Instigator

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                    • nothing has happened with the wagon in the last two weeks. been busy with work, had training that ate up my off days, plus its been hovering around the triple digits heat wise, with like 80% humidity, which has killed any ambition I had...

                      waiting till I get paid next week to order headers, then there is a shop about 6 miles from me that will do a custom exhaust for around 350. going to go that route, cuz it is farrrrr cheaper than buying new OEM style exhaust. plus 2.5 inch exhaust > 2 inch oem.

                      hopefully updates in the next week or so
                      Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                      War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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                      • It's so much fun driving to the exhaust shop with open headers at 7 am.
                        BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

                        Resident Instigator

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                        • I already know the back way lol. less likely to run into one of my coworkers. Its a small barrack, most know what the wagon looks like lol.
                          Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                          War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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                          • Unless you get a hardcase, you will be severely laughed at....

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                            • headers showed up yesterday, so today after work I got to turning wrenches.

                              got the driver side in, thanks for the tip scott, had to jack the engine up a decent bit to get the header between the engine and the steering box. but bolted up enough to be in the car. I need to modify the alternator mount, since the car was equipped with the manifolds that have the bosses for the alternator in it, but thats the least of my problems.

                              now the passenger side, that hasnt gone so well so far. got the outer bolts on the stock manifold out. the center two bolts however.... snapped off right at the head of the bolt as soon as I went to loosen them. I drowned them in pb blaster. they wouldnt budge, so I heated them up. as soon as I began to loosen them and SNAP, now Ive got two sockets with bolt heads stuck in them. and since the studs are still in the head, I cant get the manifold off, it isnt budging.

                              any tips on how to get the pass side manifold off? should I try to drill them out until I can get the manifold off, then try an easy out? I dont know what is holding the bolts up, if its rust or someone used locktite.

                              was hoping the passenger side would be the easy side.
                              Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                              War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

                              Comment


                              • Tapping on the bolt heads and using PBBlaster worked for me.. You wanna rap hard enough to break the threads free.. Looks like a couple days of soaking them is your choibe unless you can heat them up.. If you get the manifold off and can use vicegrips, rocking it on/off helps, going more off every time you get easy..

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