The War Wagon... decaring wars on the grocery store since 1966

[Shelty]

well long time no post... think its time for an update.

couple months ago I purchased a 4 bolt main 350 from a local guy for 150 bucks. the motor was grungy but looked useable, or so I thought. got it apart, took her to the machine shop and learned that the front main has spun and put a bevel in the journal. when it spun it also wiped out the teeth on the timing gear, tho didnt destroy the chain surprisingly. However the seller was cool and gave me my money back, dumped the paper weight off with him and searched for the next one.

after researching an LS swap and the cost of that, I decided against it. and due to the scarcity of the worlds most common engine in my area, I decided to purchase a crate motor.

So I bought a Blueprint Engines 355 with the iron vortec heads. Holley 600 carb and an HEI dizzy.

she should scoot the wagon down the road nicely.

Idk when I will get to the swap, probably some time in the next month. I need to get motor mounts, balancer, flexplate, a better converter and a few other small bits. I am excited and cant wait to get it in the wagon. Been burning up some OT at work to finance everything. as of now however, Im still on schedule to get the car ready for PowerTour next year. I plan on going on the tour pending budget and getting time off work...

[DanStokes]

Looks good! And great to hear from you. I suspect you've made a great choice - crate engines are generally cheaper than getting machine work done, gathering up parts, building the engine, etc, etc. If you don't have access to a dyno you're then going to spend who knows how long honing in the combination. So way to go!

Dan

[Deaf Bob]

I am starting to see LS engines in derby cars.. They seem to do real good..
One has a 3 speed manual. Does not lift when he shifts 1-2...

[Shelty]

Looks good! And great to hear from you. I suspect you've made a great choice - crate engines are generally cheaper than getting machine work done, gathering up parts, building the engine, etc, etc. If you don't have access to a dyno you're then going to spend who knows how long honing in the combination. So way to go!

Dan

thanks!

This one came dyno tested, made 393 hp at 5800 rpm

[RustyRodder]

Still sticking with the column shifter?

[Scott Liggett]

Hey Bill, here is an idea!!

http://northplatte.craigslist.org/cto/5059042740.html

[Shelty]

Still sticking with the column shifter?

yurp. until I slam a manual in it one day maybe....

that is one unique monster truck lol

[Shelty]

quick update. Ordered a balancer, flexplate, motor mounts and associated hardware last week. got 1 motor mount bolted to the new engine, the other side is bolted to the crate, so I'll get to that side eventually.

other than that. no real progress. Its been upwards of 90-100 degrees the last few days and my garage doesnt have AC... plus ive been busy with work and havnt had time to get to the car. or to get up with my buddy who has an engine hoist

right now im probably going to leave the trans in the car, just due to the KISS method. plus I have no real reason to pull the trans out. same for the front sheet metal. no real reason to pull the nose of the car apart. would cause more trouble than its worth I think, once the motor is out, im going to gunk/degrease the engine bay, paint what needs paint, then slide the new engine in.

overall goal is to have the car dialed in by the fall. I can then spend the winter finishing cosmetic stuff.

[Scott Liggett]

I put my engine in and out a couple of times on my '65 Impala only pulling the radiator. I even left the fan on the engine.

[Shelty]

the only reason id pull the front end apart is to replace the core support, has some rust in the bottom of it.... but its not a priority right now.

[Shelty]

having trouble with the upload, but I started tearing down the wagon today.

Got the radiator drained, carb, alternator, hoses, fan and converter and header bolts off today.

Radiator is a big 4 core deal, its still in the car, plan on pulling it out and having it tested/cleaned out. it looks to be in good shape too.

If I can get some help over this week, I should be able to get the hood off and the motor out within the next week. I want to set the new motor up on the stand to paint it, a Chevy engines gotta be orange. unless I get lazy and just stay with the black paint.

strangest thing Ive found was the fan has "77 Ford" written on it in old old yellowish grease pencil. I dont know what that is about, but it works.

more pictures as I progress, and if I can get pics uploaded. in the pic that I uploaded, thats a 1966 tag, found the pair at a car show for like 50 bucks. a few bucks later at the DMV and they were registered to the car.

[68scott385]

This is all the help I can give on the hood removal .

[Shelty]

if the garage door wasnt in the way id be all over that.


got the radiator out. has a few bent fins, no big. got the power steering pump unbolted as well.

yet to do, unbolt the collector bolts, unbolt the bellhousing bolts and disconnect/ remove the starter and the motor mounts and it will be ready to come out.

I might have to take the fuel pump off to get the passenger side motor mount bolt out. its in the way. need to take it off anyway to get the pushrod out of it.

[Scott Liggett]

if the garage door wasnt in the way id be all over that.


got the radiator out. has a few bent fins, no big. got the power steering pump unbolted as well.

yet to do, unbolt the collector bolts, unbolt the bellhousing bolts and disconnect/ remove the starter and the motor mounts and it will be ready to come out.

I might have to take the fuel pump off to get the passenger side motor mount bolt out. its in the way. need to take it off anyway to get the pushrod out of it.

I had the same problem. I installed the motor mount bolt in the other direction when I pulled my engine to make it easier the next time.

[RustyRodder]

Bill, are you going to an electric pump or sticking with the mechanical?