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The War Wagon... decaring wars on the grocery store since 1966

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  • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
    You got the process. This will sound dumb but go slowly! It is really unnerving when you bang your piston into the stop hard! Once you have both stopping spots marked on the dampner get a good measurement and divide by2. Measure out that amount and you have your accurate TDC. I usually punch a dimple there so it's preserved - a paint mark can get wiped or washed off.

    Dan
    thanks!

    I am going to see if I can find a stop tool locally. so far Advance doesnt have one.

    has anyone used one of these before?

    https://www.proformparts.com/product...ategory_id/118
    Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

    War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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    • Do not use the starter! ..
      Had a motor set up with a stop, the "helper" (guy who needed a ride) thought it would be faster to use the starter.. Before a sound came out of my mouth BUMP put a good sized nick in the piston... Needless to sy.. He did NOT get his ride!

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      • Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
        Do not use the starter! ..
        Had a motor set up with a stop, the "helper" (guy who needed a ride) thought it would be faster to use the starter.. Before a sound came out of my mouth BUMP put a good sized nick in the piston... Needless to sy.. He did NOT get his ride!
        ouch!!!

        yeah I wont be doing that. I didnt even bump the starter to install the flexplate bolts. it wont be hard to turn the motor over with a breaker bar and all the plugs out
        Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

        War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

        Comment


        • I made mine out of an old spark plug and a bolt - the kind with threads all the way up. Break out the insulator (that's kinda fun!) and break off the electrode. I brazed a nut to the outside so that the bolt would go thru the hole then rounded the head so contact with the piston wouldn't be too harsh. A second nut will lock the stop in place. I went thru the process a couple of times to get the place where the stop hit to be a couple of inches either way from TDC (hope I explained that well). It seemed to me like it would be easier to measure if the stop marks weren't half way around the dampner.

          EDIT: If you don't want to make yours, Jeg's/Summit/Speedway have them and shipping is pretty quick.

          Dan
          Last edited by DanStokes; October 22, 2015, 05:57 AM.

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          • When I have wanted to find exactly where TDC was in relation to markers on the engine and balancer, I just used a screw driver. I have, or used to have as I haven't seen it in a while, a small but long shaft screwdriver. I just put it in the spark plug hole. As the piston rose up, the handle of the screw driver would drop down. Right after TDC, the screw driver's handle would begin to rise. I had to go back and forth a couple of times to find the exact point, but generally found it to be accurate enough for me.
            BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

            Resident Instigator

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            • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
              I made mine out of an old spark plug and a bolt - the kind with threads all the way up. Break out the insulator (that's kinda fun!) and break off the electrode. I brazed a nut to the outside so that the bolt would go thru the hole then rounded the head so contact with the piston wouldn't be too harsh. A second nut will lock the stop in place. I went thru the process a couple of times to get the place where the stop hit to be a couple of inches either way from TDC (hope I explained that well). It seemed to me like it would be easier to measure if the stop marks weren't half way around the dampner.

              EDIT: If you don't want to make yours, Jeg's/Summit/Speedway have them and shipping is pretty quick.

              Dan
              I could do that, Ive got a handful of old/broken sparkplugs lying around.

              Im gonna grab my buddy's timing light and get at it over the weekend.
              Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

              War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

              Comment


              • figured out the backfire issue my stupid butt had a couple plug wires out of order. So I fixed that, runs smooth now, set the timing and she purrs. I still need to adjust the carb a little bit to fix the idle and stalling in gear but its running and no backfiring. I have the pressure gauge hooked up to the transmission so I can get the TV cable set so I dont burn out the 700r4, may need to drop the pan in the future to rewire the lockup, but I will see how this new converter reacts first. I hope I dont need to mess with the governor again, because that was a huge pain in the rear. but I'll get the hood on and take her for a spin to shake out all the cobwebs soon enough

                I do have a video to post, its on my facebook, I'll figure out how to upload it here, but she sounds really good.
                Last edited by Shelty; October 26, 2015, 11:32 PM.
                Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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                • It's my belief that there are mechanics who have crossed a wire pair before and mechanics who have crossed a wire pair before and won't admit it. Maybe Squirrel never crossed a wire before, but he's an alien robot, so that doesn't count. Good catch!
                  Last edited by Beagle; October 27, 2015, 06:13 AM.
                  Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                  • Originally posted by Beagle View Post
                    It's my belief that there are mechanics who have crossed a wire pair before and mechanics who have crossed a wire pair before and won't admit it. Maybe Squirrel never crossed a wire before, but he's an alien robot, so that doesn't count. Good catch!
                    I was telling him how I broke the cam in on my Monte Carlo with the 5 and 7 backwards and the 6 and 8 not even connected. Reconnected the 6 and 8 about 15 minutes into the run, very hot! Didn't notice 5 and 7 were backwards until I tried revving the engine after break in and it would back fire above idle. Whoopsie.
                    BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

                    Resident Instigator

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                    • its funny because when I fixed the wire and started it up, i saw smoke, I panicked a bit till i realized that it was just paint burning off the #2 header pipe... i guess the number 2 cylinder never made any combustion.... lol. I wirebrushed and then painted the headers with that high temp ceramic paint to make them look decent.
                      Last edited by Shelty; October 27, 2015, 11:13 PM.
                      Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                      War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

                      Comment


                      • So I got the hood back on her, got the idle adjusted so it won't stall in gear and fiddled with the TV cable on the trans. It's got about 60psi of line pressure at idle. Idle is hovering around 900rpm once it's warmed up. Took her out to the gas station and stomped on it. Noticed two things. 1st I can hear it start to break up at high rpm, and it doesn't really want to accelerate. I adjusted to tv cable again and went down the street. Acceleration was better but I honestly can't feel it shift. I've seen it shift up into 3rd and the concerning thing is that the pressure gauge never gets higher than 150psi. I can get wot with the pedal, and at wot the tv cable is tight. It's a stock 700r4 with a monster transmissions 200rpm stall. It's a different converter from the "stock" converter that was in the car originally. Would that cause the different feel with shifting? On the old engine you knew when it shifted because it would shift rather firmly.

                        I'm head scratching. Trying to remember stuff from over a year ago before I get frustrated and look into a manual conversion. 😏
                        Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                        War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

                        Comment


                        • This engine probably makes double what that tired old motor made. It does feel faster but the shifting just feels off. The fluid smells fine and is still nice and red, not burnt. I may drain it to see if the magnet in the pan is full of aluminum paste. It will rev higher in gear than the old engine did. It shifted into 2nd at 4000 rpm. And held st 3000 rpm till I backed off. The shift just didn't feel strong. It may need a shift kit idk. As for breaking up at high rpm. I think I need to adjust the carb a bit. Or double check the timing. It doesn't start to break up until around 4000rpm right before it up shifts. .
                          Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                          War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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                          • Aluminum will NOT stick to a magnet...

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                            • Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
                              Aluminum will NOT stick to a magnet...
                              Doh' that's right.

                              Though right now I have a bigger problem. After the test drive I took her home and the car developed a huge rattle. Then it died. I got to start it and nothing. Just clicking. Figuring the starter was cooked I left it till morning to cool off.

                              Come back out and still clicking so I jump it and the rattle is still there. It's. Loud. So I shut it off and check everything. I discovered much to my disappointment that you can grab the flexplate with two fingers and wiggle it back and forth a good 1/8-1/4 inch. That's not supposed to happen. I'm not sure if the bolts backed out, I used a lot of locktite. Or if the flexplate, which is a scat piece, cracked. So now I'm going to drop the trans out of this pig.
                              Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                              War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

                              Comment


                              • That sucks..
                                We had problems with our flex plate..
                                Try removing a 475 with 50-75# of roll cage on it in a bent car with the body sitting on the frame..
                                That s a major PITA!

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