Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

The War Wagon... decaring wars on the grocery store since 1966

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • DanStokes
    replied
    Cool! Glad that you worked out the bugs - wiring can be a ROYAL PITA! All them volts and amps and stuff like that.

    EDIT: I'm still working on the wiring on the Volvo along with the fuel system. Bolting the parts in is easy, making the small stuff fit and work is where it gets fussy.

    Dan
    Last edited by DanStokes; June 9, 2016, 11:46 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shelty
    replied
    Ive not made an update in a while. turns out that all the issues I had with the car's quality of running was wiring related. Which was probably the problem the entire time with the car. Scott told me how to fix the issues, so I rewired the car, bypassed all the old ignition wiring, ran an auxillary fuse box for my added accessories, car runs great now, doesnt stall, doesnt bog. I took it for a spin around the block and aside from some minor surging in 4th gear the car is great.

    my transmission builder is coming by sunday to double check the TV system, though im not too worried about it, since I have that valvebody in the transmission.

    soon I can get on to cosmetic upgrades and some work on the mustang. The long delay I had was due to the horrible weather we had until recent and just being STUPID busy at work.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shelty
    replied
    so I tried to check the voltage at the distributor, but I couldnt get a good reading from the multimeter. I did adjust the idle screws on the carb a little bit and the idle smoothed out. I drove it up and down the street and it doesnt break up anymore, it doesnt stall in gear and it doesnt stall when you hit the brakes. It also doesnt smell like its running as rich anymore. I'll see how she behaves tomorrow. Also fond out the brakes take some effort to get the car to stop, so I'll address that.

    the bad news is, the transmission leak is back, no clue where its leaking from. it doesnt look like its leaking from the fittings, its a small dribble, its not gushing fluid out like it did when it leaked when I put it in originally. and I have to adjust the passenger side collector as i can hear a leak. once I set the TV cable, which I have to do still, she should be roadworthy enough to drive.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shelty
    replied
    Thanks. She is in pretty decent shape, some rust, but not that bad. still a little bit of neglect to undo, but shes pretty good.

    I have the multi-meter to check the voltage. I just havnt gotten a chance to do it. the weather has been poor, as well as some life bull-poo thats been interrupting me. I have until the end of may to fix any issues, as thats when Cruizin' Ocean city is, which is an enormous car show. had the wagon there last year and the old girl got some looks.

    Leave a comment:


  • RideTech_Ryan
    replied
    Coming along nicely! That looks to be one clean wagon

    Leave a comment:


  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Yep, running rich motors to keep from burning valves and overheating 10V or less at half to full throttle causes the stock dizzy to foul..
    Remember the majority of derby cars run no alt..
    Last edited by Deaf Bob; April 29, 2016, 12:01 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott Liggett
    replied
    Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
    Harbor Freight has a multi-meter under 5 bux that works great!
    I concur with Scott..
    As derby cars refire multiple times, the batteries lose voltage, the cars WILL run crappy..
    I have checked batteries right at the end of an event, 10 volts .. Then a few min they will show 12 v. And run fine..

    I talked to tons of people who wire up a HEI using the old points ignition wire, not knowing that the original wiring has a built in resistor wire that drops the voltage after a couple of minutes. The engine will run on 9 volts but it isn't enough voltage to fire the plugs strong enough. They will run rich and eventually foul the plugs.
    Last edited by Scott Liggett; April 28, 2016, 06:22 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Harbor Freight has a multi-meter under 5 bux that works great!
    I concur with Scott..
    As derby cars refire multiple times, the batteries lose voltage, the cars WILL run crappy..
    I have checked batteries right at the end of an event, 10 volts .. Then a few min they will show 12 v. And run fine..

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott Liggett
    replied
    Like I said on FB, it could also be the HEI not getting 12 volts.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shelty
    replied
    I got home from training this afternoon, and after, voting, gym and general laziness, I wanted to hear the car run again. I also figured why not drive it! I let the TV cable self adjust itself, which puts the cable in the general area of where it wants to be, plus with the TCI constant pressure valvebody line pressure isnt as much of a worry as it was before.

    drove up and down the street a few times, and made one part throttle pull up to about 30mph (short narrow street) second gear shift is nice and firm. The brakes are surprisingly there. It sounds good for having only a couple hours run time and practically 0 tuning whatsoever

    after the drive, just a few minor issues.
    -obviously I need to adjust the TV cable properly
    the carb needs to be adjusted or rejetted as it runs pig rich. burns your eyes.
    as it climbed the RPMs, I could hear it sound like it was breaking up.
    in reverse and Drive, the idle drops down low and stumbles or stalls.
    hard braking will stall it out.
    the throttle is also a bit hard, I was thinking of getting rid of the stock solid bar linkage and put in a new pedal with a cable linkage.?

    Im thinking, and please correct me if I am wrong, but all those issues are due to no carb adjustment and a vacuum leak (that Ive not found yet). right? and the breaking up would be a timing issue correct?

    like I said, the engine only had the cam break in and a couple hours run time before the trans exploded, I didnt play with the timing very much when I got it broken in, and Ive not touched the carb. This is the farthest Ive driven it in months.
    Last edited by Shelty; April 26, 2016, 05:43 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott Liggett
    replied
    Make sure the choke isn't stuck closed. Check the float level too. After sitting they sometimes stick a bit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shelty
    replied
    she is finally on the ground again, after 6 months. I need to adjust the TV cable, as well as the carb as for some reason the car is running really rich, then air up/replace the rear shocks as those air shocks have seen better days. car is sitting nose high.

    but I have work training this week to deal with so Ive not been home much.
    Last edited by Shelty; April 26, 2016, 01:10 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott Liggett
    replied
    Good news. Just in time for summer cruising. Have fun with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • DanStokes
    replied
    I heard it slightly differently (featured a moron) but that's the story. I figured everyone knew it so I was just reminding folks, not telling it.

    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • STINEY
    replied
    !!!

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X