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The War Wagon... decaring wars on the grocery store since 1966

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  • Casper
    replied
    12 bolt still has C-Clips... those floor pans are looking pretty minimal, if that's an east coast car it must have been garage kept and hardly ever driven.

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  • Shelty
    replied
    Originally posted by RustyRodder View Post
    Guys, it doesnt matter if your rear is black or brown or clean or dirty! Well, maybe dirty.


    Bill, have you thought about swapping in a 12-bolt rear? or found your gearing yet?
    have not found the gearing yet, will do that before I pull the driveshaft. as for swapping to 12 bolt.... meh, I dont see the need to. I dont see the car needing one.

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  • JOES66FURY
    replied
    hell, that thing is freaking solid! Nice!

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  • RustyRodder
    replied
    Guys, it doesnt matter if your rear is black or brown or clean or dirty! Well, maybe dirty.


    Bill, have you thought about swapping in a 12-bolt rear? or found your gearing yet?

    Leave a comment:


  • Shelty
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott Liggett View Post
    The original trunk key should open the glove box lock. My glovebox was missing as well. Just cardboard stapled into a three sided box anyways.

    My rear is cleaner than your rear.
    If I ever get the time id take a wire wheel to the axle to clean it up and hit it with some por15 or some chassis paint. but for a car thats spent is life in the North east, its not as rusty as I thought it would be. Factory undercoating saved it. at the most it needs 1 patch on the driver side and I may just see about replacing the pass side front pan, cuz it is probably easier than fabricating the drain plug. that and I am going to rely on a friend to do the welding. I got to talk to him, I think he has a mobile rig, so if I can cut out all the bad and just have him weld in the new, it could be done in a day.

    I dont have the trunk key, the PO said he didnt have it either when I bought it, all I have is the hex shaped keys. I figure if I can have a locksmith rekey the glove box, it will work on the tailgate too.

    however I have noticed that on the 80s k9 blazer, the lock [;ate for the rear tailgate is the same shape as the one on my wagon, and those trucks had the power rear window. if I could find one in a junkyard I could swap it in and have a power rear window. Im sure it would work with some fiddling.

    but I can have that done while I have the car apart for its trans swap which I may start getting to in a week.

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  • Monk
    replied
    Like it.........long roof racer

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  • Scott Liggett
    replied
    The original trunk key should open the glove box lock. My glovebox was missing as well. Just cardboard stapled into a three sided box anyways.

    My rear is cleaner than your rear.
    Last edited by Scott Liggett; April 2, 2014, 06:19 PM.

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  • Shelty
    replied
    yeah, the rust isnt nearly as bad as I feared. I was going to rip out the rear carpets, but then I decided not to cuz it looks more labor intensive. the front carpet tore to shreds as I pulled it out, but I need to hold on to it so I can use it as a template for when I order new carpet at some point.

    I reached up under the dash too and was able to jimmy open the glove box. the PO ripped the liner out, probably because the lock will not open. I am going to take the door off eventually and have a locksmith pick and key the lock for me if they can. worst case I will try to track down a new lock for it. did find something neat when I opened the door, someone glued a 1966 quarter to the inside of the glovebox door. Must be for good luck, so I am going to leave it be.

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  • RustyRodder
    replied
    Really not bad at all- A weekends worth of work if you dick around.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Not bad at all.

    Dan

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  • Shelty
    replied
    peeking under the car I noticed something, please dont be jealous Scott, but my wagon was equipped with a rear sway bar. I have no idea if it was OE or installed sometime long ago, the condition of it shows its been on the car for quite a while. Id guess that if it was OE it is because the added weight over the rear end would cause adverse handling.



    lastly, in the storage compartment under the bed floor, there is some rot in the same area on both sides. I kind of knew about this before hand, but I'll have it cut and patched before it gets worse.

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  • Shelty
    replied
    the driver side isnt as bad, save for one spot it looks like its all surface rust.



    the spot by the parking brake looks like its the worst spot






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  • Shelty
    replied
    Got brave today and decided to see how bad the floors were up front, so I ripped out the stained, torn faded and nasty carpet.

    the floors are not as bad as I thought. The are the original pans too.

    the area around the plug is a little weak, I think I can get away with just patching them. I dont think I need the entire floor skin. The rusted areas looks surface, wont know till I take a wire wheel to it, but I figure if they clean up fine, I can get away with just por-15.




    this needs a patch



    this can probably just be cut and patched

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  • Shelty
    replied
    thanks man! Im holding on to the junk carb, figure if its not good for backup parts, I can always use it as a return.

    I need to get a timing light tho, car still has a tendency to have a rough or irratic idle,also is hard to start when cold, even with the choke shut. I am thinking that the timing may just be off a few degrees. or its a vacuum leak or a bad vacc advance
    Last edited by Shelty; March 30, 2014, 05:28 PM.

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  • NASBackyard
    replied
    Nice wagon ! And decent price ! I had a 66 327 w/ Qjet in my 55 Chevy. Great combo with the OD trans. Put some disc on the front and you will more golden ! That carb core is worth hanging on to..

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