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The War Wagon... decaring wars on the grocery store since 1966

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  • Shelty
    replied
    Well solved the fluid mystery. The damn servo cover popped off somehow. The snap ring is hanging from it. Hell if I know how that happened

    Last edited by Shelty; November 29, 2015, 08:22 PM.

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  • Shelty
    replied
    Well hit another problem.

    I get her all ready to go for a spin around the block. I get to the end of the street and hear a pop and a hiss. Then I see smoke billowing from the hood. I throw it in reverse and go back into my driveway. Pop the hood and ATF is everywhere. It's hard to tell if a line burst or if I overfilled it as fluid is all over the pass side. So I shut it off and open the garage to pull it back in. I start it and then I hear the starter is still engaged so I turn the key off. And it's still running. I pull the negative battery cable and it dies. Ok weird shouldn't it stay running? . I go to hook it back up and the starter turns on. It's just spinning not engaging the flexplate at all. I walk it with a jack handle and it won't stop sticking.

    So I ask, what broke?
    Last edited by Shelty; November 29, 2015, 05:26 PM.

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    Good to hear that she will be terrorizing shopping markets again soon!

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  • Shelty
    replied
    She LIVES! AGAIN!

    got it fired back up today, had to jump it as for some reason the battery died. had a new small issues to fix prior to starting it back up. but its pretty much good to go now. tomorrow I plan on taking it out for a drive. the pressure gauge I had attached to the trans is peaking out at around 250 psi, so that new valve body is doing its job. I just need to remove the gauge since its temporary and then I can get her off the stands and see how she behaves.

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  • Huskinhano
    replied
    Slightly off topic but with lock washers. I never put a flat washer under a lock washer. It's defeating the purpose. You've done away with that sharp edge of the washer to dig in. Dan, you're right, I've seen a lot of broken star washers.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    I know it's possible (can't speak to "likely") for star washers to break. Then they can work their way out leaving the bolt loose. We always used star washers and LocTite on our dyno driveshaft bolts which were simple Grade 8s. I never saw a broken one but one of our young engineers was nervous about one of the washers breaking - guess he was warned about that in engineering school. Maybe if we'd had ARPs we could have torqued them tighter and skipped the washers.

    BTW - These were HUGE U-joints with 12 bolt flanges. It took forever to tighten all of them and there was no room for a socket on many of the nuts, requiring tightening with an open end wrench. We hand tightened them as tight as possible them tapped the wrench with a hammer for max tightness - all our 3/4" wrenches were beat up.

    Dan

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  • Shelty
    replied
    im not sure, maybe it has something to do with the clamping force of the bolt. The bolts came with assembly lube, which I used under the bolt head, and you need to torque them to a higher spec than stock bolts. Im hoping they stay put this time. I dont feel like taking the whole dumb thing apart again.

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  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Wonder why..
    Chews up the heads?

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    [QUOTE=Shelty;n1070933]I would have but double checking the ARP paperwork, it says to NOT use washers.

    I wondered about that. ARP has always been top notch for me and I was surprised that they didn't include them if they wanted us to use them. I haven't opened my package yet so I haven't read the instructions. I'm guessing a drop o' LocTite red and go with it.

    Dan

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  • Shelty
    replied
    I would have but double checking the ARP paperwork, it says to NOT use washers.

    as of right now, I have the trans finished up. I swapped out the servo, the new valvebody and pan is on, and its mostly bolted back together.

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  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Use star washers!
    I always do.. On derby cars we did not, the bolts backed off.. Of course on the street you are not revving up and down..

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  • Shelty
    replied
    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
    Good question on the star washers. I just bought ARP flywheel bolts for the Volvo (7/16" and same ARP PN as the Chevy uses) and I need to know the recommendation before I screw the whole deal together. Maybe just LocTite? I'm willing to make a hardware run if needed.

    Dan
    I think they rattled loose becasue I didnt use enough loc-tite last time. I say that because I applied it to the threads, and when I unscrewed them when I fixed the issue, there was no evidence of any loc-tite on the bolts. this time around I was very liberal with it,

    I got a bit delayed with the wagon, had to order a new transmission pan, the old one ended up having a hairline crack in it. plus it was banged up a bit, so instead of welding the crack and warping the whole deal, I just ordered a new one, which showed up today, so I'll get it buttoned back up over the weekend.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Good question on the star washers. I just bought ARP flywheel bolts for the Volvo (7/16" and same ARP PN as the Chevy uses) and I need to know the recommendation before I screw the whole deal together. Maybe just LocTite? I'm willing to make a hardware run if needed.

    Dan

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  • Shelty
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott Liggett View Post
    Out of curiosity, are you using the star washers with the flexplate bolts?
    no, they didnt come with the ARP bolts that I bought. The old stock bolts had them, but I didnt want to reuse them because I had no clue how old they were

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  • Scott Liggett
    replied
    Out of curiosity, are you using the star washers with the flexplate bolts?

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