Well solved the fluid mystery. The damn servo cover popped off somehow. The snap ring is hanging from it. Hell if I know how that happened
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The War Wagon... decaring wars on the grocery store since 1966
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Well hit another problem.
I get her all ready to go for a spin around the block. I get to the end of the street and hear a pop and a hiss. Then I see smoke billowing from the hood. I throw it in reverse and go back into my driveway. Pop the hood and ATF is everywhere. It's hard to tell if a line burst or if I overfilled it as fluid is all over the pass side. So I shut it off and open the garage to pull it back in. I start it and then I hear the starter is still engaged so I turn the key off. And it's still running. I pull the negative battery cable and it dies. Ok weird shouldn't it stay running? . I go to hook it back up and the starter turns on. It's just spinning not engaging the flexplate at all. I walk it with a jack handle and it won't stop sticking.
So I ask, what broke?Last edited by Shelty; November 29, 2015, 05:26 PM.
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Good to hear that she will be terrorizing shopping markets again soon!
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She LIVES! AGAIN!
got it fired back up today, had to jump it as for some reason the battery died. had a new small issues to fix prior to starting it back up. but its pretty much good to go now. tomorrow I plan on taking it out for a drive. the pressure gauge I had attached to the trans is peaking out at around 250 psi, so that new valve body is doing its job. I just need to remove the gauge since its temporary and then I can get her off the stands and see how she behaves.
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Slightly off topic but with lock washers. I never put a flat washer under a lock washer. It's defeating the purpose. You've done away with that sharp edge of the washer to dig in. Dan, you're right, I've seen a lot of broken star washers.
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I know it's possible (can't speak to "likely") for star washers to break. Then they can work their way out leaving the bolt loose. We always used star washers and LocTite on our dyno driveshaft bolts which were simple Grade 8s. I never saw a broken one but one of our young engineers was nervous about one of the washers breaking - guess he was warned about that in engineering school. Maybe if we'd had ARPs we could have torqued them tighter and skipped the washers.
BTW - These were HUGE U-joints with 12 bolt flanges. It took forever to tighten all of them and there was no room for a socket on many of the nuts, requiring tightening with an open end wrench. We hand tightened them as tight as possible them tapped the wrench with a hammer for max tightness - all our 3/4" wrenches were beat up.
Dan
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im not sure, maybe it has something to do with the clamping force of the bolt. The bolts came with assembly lube, which I used under the bolt head, and you need to torque them to a higher spec than stock bolts. Im hoping they stay put this time. I dont feel like taking the whole dumb thing apart again.
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[QUOTE=Shelty;n1070933]I would have but double checking the ARP paperwork, it says to NOT use washers.
I wondered about that. ARP has always been top notch for me and I was surprised that they didn't include them if they wanted us to use them. I haven't opened my package yet so I haven't read the instructions. I'm guessing a drop o' LocTite red and go with it.
Dan
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I would have but double checking the ARP paperwork, it says to NOT use washers.
as of right now, I have the trans finished up. I swapped out the servo, the new valvebody and pan is on, and its mostly bolted back together.
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Use star washers!
I always do.. On derby cars we did not, the bolts backed off.. Of course on the street you are not revving up and down..
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Originally posted by DanStokes View PostGood question on the star washers. I just bought ARP flywheel bolts for the Volvo (7/16" and same ARP PN as the Chevy uses) and I need to know the recommendation before I screw the whole deal together. Maybe just LocTite? I'm willing to make a hardware run if needed.
Dan
I got a bit delayed with the wagon, had to order a new transmission pan, the old one ended up having a hairline crack in it. plus it was banged up a bit, so instead of welding the crack and warping the whole deal, I just ordered a new one, which showed up today, so I'll get it buttoned back up over the weekend.
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Good question on the star washers. I just bought ARP flywheel bolts for the Volvo (7/16" and same ARP PN as the Chevy uses) and I need to know the recommendation before I screw the whole deal together. Maybe just LocTite? I'm willing to make a hardware run if needed.
Dan
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Originally posted by Scott Liggett View PostOut of curiosity, are you using the star washers with the flexplate bolts?
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Out of curiosity, are you using the star washers with the flexplate bolts?
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