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The War Wagon... decaring wars on the grocery store since 1966

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  • Shelty
    replied
    so quick update. Ive got most of the new Valvebody, which showed up on wednesday, installed. Ive got to just swap out the servo and wire up the solenoid control. which is way easier to understand this time around. then I can put the car back together and see how the car likes the changes. I went with the heavy duty option that comes with the valvebody. its more firm than the street setting, but not nearly as harsh as the Street plus, which is street/strip. I dont plan on ever racing this bucket, the heavy duty option is more set up for towing, taxi/police car and other higher abuse uses. with the weight of the car and the power the new engine makes, it cant hurt to keep this thing from shredding its insides apart.

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  • Shelty
    replied
    so I got around having to pull the trans, with the use of long bolts, I was able to basically slide the trans back a few inches and have enough room to get my torque wrench in between the converter and the flexplate. sounds easy, but it was an amazing pain in the rear. I found out that 4 out of the 6 bolts on the flexplate were loose, 3 out of those 4 were finger loose. I had used threadlocker on the bolts before, but I guess I didnt use enough. This time I used quite a bit of thread locker and torqued them down again. right now the trans is just bolted to the car again. Thumpin455 pointed me into the direction of the TCI Constant Pressure Valvebody, which would solve any issues I have with the TV cable and making sure the line pressure in the trans was ok. so that will be getting ordered this weekend as long as the budget says its Ok.

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  • Shelty
    replied
    Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
    Stock 327 probably made clse to 200 ponies if not more..
    Yeah. Mid 70's are around 160...
    I think it was around 250 or so for the stock one. I know the high performance 327 put down a good amount of power. Like 300ish. But I doubt that was in the wagon. But that would have been in front of the power glide I pulled out. Still have that thing. After it leaked all its fluid out into my garage. Which was brown. Lord knows if that was ever changed.

    It worked and all. But chugging down the road at highway speed left the car screaming in the upper rpm range. A third gear and overdrive helped with that lol
    Last edited by Shelty; November 2, 2015, 05:21 PM.

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  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Stock 327 probably made clse to 200 ponies if not more..
    Yeah. Mid 70's are around 160...

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  • Shelty
    replied
    that would suck. as much as this sucks, its sort of a blessing in disguise. Im going to take the trans to a shop to have it checked out, and while its out, I figure an upgraded servo and a new pump wouldnt hurt. maybe even throw in a shift kit. its a bone stock 700r4 from an 86 camaro, so I figure a little bit of work will help it hold up behind the new motor. the old motor, if I forgot to mention it was a Goodmark "Hecho en Mexico" 350 that was probably just thrown in there as a replacement after the original engine bit the dust. I think those things made 150 horsepower, so at 393hp Im well over double the power.

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  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    That sucks..
    We had problems with our flex plate..
    Try removing a 475 with 50-75# of roll cage on it in a bent car with the body sitting on the frame..
    That s a major PITA!

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  • Shelty
    replied
    Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
    Aluminum will NOT stick to a magnet...
    Doh' that's right.

    Though right now I have a bigger problem. After the test drive I took her home and the car developed a huge rattle. Then it died. I got to start it and nothing. Just clicking. Figuring the starter was cooked I left it till morning to cool off.

    Come back out and still clicking so I jump it and the rattle is still there. It's. Loud. So I shut it off and check everything. I discovered much to my disappointment that you can grab the flexplate with two fingers and wiggle it back and forth a good 1/8-1/4 inch. That's not supposed to happen. I'm not sure if the bolts backed out, I used a lot of locktite. Or if the flexplate, which is a scat piece, cracked. So now I'm going to drop the trans out of this pig.

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  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Aluminum will NOT stick to a magnet...

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  • Shelty
    replied
    This engine probably makes double what that tired old motor made. It does feel faster but the shifting just feels off. The fluid smells fine and is still nice and red, not burnt. I may drain it to see if the magnet in the pan is full of aluminum paste. It will rev higher in gear than the old engine did. It shifted into 2nd at 4000 rpm. And held st 3000 rpm till I backed off. The shift just didn't feel strong. It may need a shift kit idk. As for breaking up at high rpm. I think I need to adjust the carb a bit. Or double check the timing. It doesn't start to break up until around 4000rpm right before it up shifts. .

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  • Shelty
    replied
    So I got the hood back on her, got the idle adjusted so it won't stall in gear and fiddled with the TV cable on the trans. It's got about 60psi of line pressure at idle. Idle is hovering around 900rpm once it's warmed up. Took her out to the gas station and stomped on it. Noticed two things. 1st I can hear it start to break up at high rpm, and it doesn't really want to accelerate. I adjusted to tv cable again and went down the street. Acceleration was better but I honestly can't feel it shift. I've seen it shift up into 3rd and the concerning thing is that the pressure gauge never gets higher than 150psi. I can get wot with the pedal, and at wot the tv cable is tight. It's a stock 700r4 with a monster transmissions 200rpm stall. It's a different converter from the "stock" converter that was in the car originally. Would that cause the different feel with shifting? On the old engine you knew when it shifted because it would shift rather firmly.

    I'm head scratching. Trying to remember stuff from over a year ago before I get frustrated and look into a manual conversion. 😏

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  • Shelty
    replied
    its funny because when I fixed the wire and started it up, i saw smoke, I panicked a bit till i realized that it was just paint burning off the #2 header pipe... i guess the number 2 cylinder never made any combustion.... lol. I wirebrushed and then painted the headers with that high temp ceramic paint to make them look decent.
    Last edited by Shelty; October 27, 2015, 11:13 PM.

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  • Scott Liggett
    replied
    Originally posted by Beagle View Post
    It's my belief that there are mechanics who have crossed a wire pair before and mechanics who have crossed a wire pair before and won't admit it. Maybe Squirrel never crossed a wire before, but he's an alien robot, so that doesn't count. Good catch!
    I was telling him how I broke the cam in on my Monte Carlo with the 5 and 7 backwards and the 6 and 8 not even connected. Reconnected the 6 and 8 about 15 minutes into the run, very hot! Didn't notice 5 and 7 were backwards until I tried revving the engine after break in and it would back fire above idle. Whoopsie.

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  • Beagle
    replied
    It's my belief that there are mechanics who have crossed a wire pair before and mechanics who have crossed a wire pair before and won't admit it. Maybe Squirrel never crossed a wire before, but he's an alien robot, so that doesn't count. Good catch!
    Last edited by Beagle; October 27, 2015, 06:13 AM.

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  • Shelty
    replied
    figured out the backfire issue my stupid butt had a couple plug wires out of order. So I fixed that, runs smooth now, set the timing and she purrs. I still need to adjust the carb a little bit to fix the idle and stalling in gear but its running and no backfiring. I have the pressure gauge hooked up to the transmission so I can get the TV cable set so I dont burn out the 700r4, may need to drop the pan in the future to rewire the lockup, but I will see how this new converter reacts first. I hope I dont need to mess with the governor again, because that was a huge pain in the rear. but I'll get the hood on and take her for a spin to shake out all the cobwebs soon enough

    I do have a video to post, its on my facebook, I'll figure out how to upload it here, but she sounds really good.
    Last edited by Shelty; October 26, 2015, 11:32 PM.

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  • Shelty
    replied
    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
    I made mine out of an old spark plug and a bolt - the kind with threads all the way up. Break out the insulator (that's kinda fun!) and break off the electrode. I brazed a nut to the outside so that the bolt would go thru the hole then rounded the head so contact with the piston wouldn't be too harsh. A second nut will lock the stop in place. I went thru the process a couple of times to get the place where the stop hit to be a couple of inches either way from TDC (hope I explained that well). It seemed to me like it would be easier to measure if the stop marks weren't half way around the dampner.

    EDIT: If you don't want to make yours, Jeg's/Summit/Speedway have them and shipping is pretty quick.

    Dan
    I could do that, Ive got a handful of old/broken sparkplugs lying around.

    Im gonna grab my buddy's timing light and get at it over the weekend.

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