The War Wagon... decaring wars on the grocery store since 1966

[Deaf Bob]

Don't total it up... It WILL make you sick!... Son and I pool stuff with him paying out the most as it is his cars and he drives.. We got to $6,000 on a car that won almost $3K.. Still have it, overbuilt for anything else...

[Shelty]

yeah the feeling of what I spent the beginning of this week does have me a bit weak in the knees. but it will be all worth it when I can cruise down the road in that big gold brick getting hopefully 19mpg.

[Shelty]

got the transmission cooler lines in. took a little coersion, but they are in and looks like they clear any moving/hot parts.

now as for the TCI converter control kit. has anyone installed one of these before? I am a bit confused by the wires and everything. I will snap some pictures a little later, but the wiring harness has me confused. the instructions and diagrams on them suck. I would rather ask and look a fool, then cut something up and realized i just screwed up big time....

[68scott385]

My 700 came from TCI. It has two wires and a vacuum switch. Provide the switch with manifold vacuum. One wire gets grounded the other gets 12v with the key in the run position, preferably with an in-line fuse, 10A should do.

Here's were it gets interesting...either/both wires can be run through a manual off/on switch to turn the lockup on/off or force lockup in any gear.

This is just how mine works, yours is likely different.

[Shelty]

My 700 came from TCI. It has two wires and a vacuum switch. Provide the switch with manifold vacuum. One wire gets grounded the other gets 12v with the key in the run position, preferably with an in-line fuse, 10A should do.

Here's were it gets interesting...either/both wires can be run through a manual off/on switch to turn the lockup on/off or force lockup in any gear.

This is just how mine works, yours is likely different.

mine came with some extra wires and a soleniod switch for 4th gear. its hard to explain, it looks like a round disc that has threads on one end and two terminals on the other. but inside my trans, there are two of those but the 2nd only has one terminal on it. they are in the front side of the trans. I am afraid to cut any wiring and wonder if the external plug/vac switch can just be used. what would be a good keyed source to wire into? distributor? off the ignition off the key? I need to get some more wire, thought I had some but I didnt. and some vacumn hose too. I have a free port in my intake that can take the line so thats covered.

the external plug has the green wire for the extra switch, which I think is a step I will skip for now. I dont see any reason for me to have to turn the OD off right now, no real big hills to climb here at sea level lol

I will try to get pictures, just charging the camera.

[68scott385]

I ALWAYS source power for new circuits from the fuse box. Usually there is at least one unused keyed hot terminal, plug in one end of an in-line fuse there. I've even used a two-from-one adapter to feed more than one low-draw circuit, just make sure both circuits use fuses.

From what I envision from your explanation, you just need to supply 12v to the appropriate wire(s). I don't have any pictures of the valve body in my 700r4 but I was just in my built 200-4r, the switches in the valve body get their ground from the valve body/transmission. This is a good reason to add a ground strap from a bell-housing bolt or tail-shaft housing bolt to the frame or crossmember, or both in my case. I like to remain fully grounded. I wound up with one of each after doing separate modifications...redundancy at its best. Anyway, by supplying the valve body switches with 12v they will close at their predetermined time/pressure to make the hydraulic valves do their thing. I understand what they do & how they do it, just not good at explaining it. I know I'm marginally useful.

[Shelty]

no man, you are helpful.

I dont know if I have an extra slot in my fusebox, I have to look, cuz Its the old school glass fuses. unless I can run an auxillary fusebox for just the transmission and leave some spots open for future additions. unless that is getting too complicated and I am better off just running an inline fuse to a keyed source or maybe run it off the cigarette lighter, unless that would put a draw on the batter when the car is off.

electrics are my weak point.

and I do have a loose ground strap I ground on the case

[Scott Liggett]

Your fuse box should have three spades left of the fuses. Top one is fused ign hot, next one is battery hot, third is ign hot.

[Shelty]

Your fuse box should have three spades left of the fuses. Top one is fused ign hot, next one is battery hot, third is ign hot.

nice! thanks man, I'll have to check tomorrow.

here are some pictures of the inside of the trans.

these are the two solenoid switches located at the back of the trans, not the front like I thought before. the green plug is the one with the single terminal. the one i am pointing at has 2 terminals.




route of the wires



I will leave all this alone for now and see how the transmission reacts for now.

from what I have read the TCI kit is Vacuum operated vs the B&M one which is speed operated. which is also two times as espensive

[Shelty]

getting close finally, got the trans wired up, vacc line for switch run, new TV cable kit installed, just need to adjust it. I need to modify or make a new throttle rod/ convert it to a cable. the way it is, it hits the bracket for the TV cable. if I flip it upside down it clears. but then the air cleaner doesnt fit. for now, I dont care, I'll fix it after I get everything all set up and its running and shifting right. should have mostly done tomorrow, gotta read how to set the cable as per the instructions.

hopefully the battery has enough juice to crank it over.

[68scott385]

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

Important information regarding tv cable adjustment & function. Three part article, something to keep handy for reference.

[Shelty]

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

Important information regarding tv cable adjustment & function. Three part article, something to keep handy for reference.

thanks! I got the kit from them, Ive read this before, plus they included extremely detailed instructions.

ran out and bought trans fluid and 3 pan bolts I was missing somehow. so so so so so so so tired of buying stuff. so I am cutting a couple corners. not buying a drain plug for the pan, cuz I forgot to and now I dont give a damn anymore. and ive not bought the tach... I'll get to it.

tomorrow I will attempt to light it off, will need to pour a little gas down the carb, it is bone dry from sitting for over a month.

[DanStokes]

I'd rethink that drain plug thing. I just grab a 1/4" pipe coupling and cut it at an angle then weld it in sideways in the pan. Screw in a short length of 1/4" pipe as a drill guide and pierce the pan. Clean out all the metal bits and plug the hole with a brass pipe plug and you're done. By putting it sideways it doesn't hang down so it can catch on something. This method costs almost nothing. Every time I haven't added a plug I've kicked myself soundly at a later date when I need to drain the pan.

Dan

[68scott385]

I too find a trans drain plug a convenient item to have and it sure makes maintenance & removal a LOT cleaner. I also understand decreasing patience as the end of a project nears. Main thing is that you are happy with the path you take. ENJOY

[Shelty]

well I didn't do the drain plug, probably going to regret that and cost me a few Tshirts. I was just tired of seeing it on blocks.

got it all buttoned up. got the TV cable hooked up as per Bowtie OD's instructions, with the base setting they described.

car fired up with minimal effort, got the issue with the throttle linkage worked out, it just needed to be coerced. its not leaking any fluids, which is amazing.

car is rather loud since I cut the exhaust. I may just cut the rest out cuz the one side is rubbing the tire.

now the bad news, it runs, and "drives" but it has absolutely 0 none, nada, no balls. at first I thought the throttle was jamming up, which is why I coerced it to fit the right way. the pedal isnt overly stiff, but you put the pedal 1/4 way down and it just wont go. its driving like its only half in gear. it will drive, it just feels like it is dragging 2 sleeping elephants behind it I felt it shift, I didnt mash the pedal, because 1, the TV cable isnt 100% set yet, and 2, its LOUD and I dont want my neighbors to call the cops/get pulled over. I felt it shift into 3rd, and it felt like it was flip flopping in gear, not quite like it was slipping though. It has a 5 quart jug of trans fluid in it, plus 1 quart in the converter when I installed it.

only other thing it could be is the Ebrake, which currently due to the new crossmemeber, the cables are basically just there, not taut or anything, possibly the rear brakes could be stuck as a result?

Ive not hooked up a tach yet, plus the noise it makes is a bit misleading.

anyone have any tips/ideas?

TV cable not adjusted right?
not enough fluid?
rear gears being wrong? I have no idea what they are, but I imagine that they are a 2:something.
ebrake?

I only drove it maybe a mile. just to burn all the dust and spilled fluids off the exhaust.

id go fiddle with it more, but honestly, I am exhausted from work, right now im just happy it crawls under its own power for now.

any ideas will be most appreciated. i dont want to drive it cuz im afraid to break something expensive.

thanks