that would suck. as much as this sucks, its sort of a blessing in disguise. Im going to take the trans to a shop to have it checked out, and while its out, I figure an upgraded servo and a new pump wouldnt hurt. maybe even throw in a shift kit. its a bone stock 700r4 from an 86 camaro, so I figure a little bit of work will help it hold up behind the new motor. the old motor, if I forgot to mention it was a Goodmark "Hecho en Mexico" 350 that was probably just thrown in there as a replacement after the original engine bit the dust. I think those things made 150 horsepower, so at 393hp Im well over double the power.
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The War Wagon... decaring wars on the grocery store since 1966
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Originally posted by Deaf Bob View PostStock 327 probably made clse to 200 ponies if not more..
Yeah. Mid 70's are around 160...
It worked and all. But chugging down the road at highway speed left the car screaming in the upper rpm range. A third gear and overdrive helped with that lolLast edited by Shelty; November 2, 2015, 05:21 PM.Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo
War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...
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so I got around having to pull the trans, with the use of long bolts, I was able to basically slide the trans back a few inches and have enough room to get my torque wrench in between the converter and the flexplate. sounds easy, but it was an amazing pain in the rear. I found out that 4 out of the 6 bolts on the flexplate were loose, 3 out of those 4 were finger loose. I had used threadlocker on the bolts before, but I guess I didnt use enough. This time I used quite a bit of thread locker and torqued them down again. right now the trans is just bolted to the car again. Thumpin455 pointed me into the direction of the TCI Constant Pressure Valvebody, which would solve any issues I have with the TV cable and making sure the line pressure in the trans was ok. so that will be getting ordered this weekend as long as the budget says its Ok.Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo
War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...
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so quick update. Ive got most of the new Valvebody, which showed up on wednesday, installed. Ive got to just swap out the servo and wire up the solenoid control. which is way easier to understand this time around. then I can put the car back together and see how the car likes the changes. I went with the heavy duty option that comes with the valvebody. its more firm than the street setting, but not nearly as harsh as the Street plus, which is street/strip. I dont plan on ever racing this bucket, the heavy duty option is more set up for towing, taxi/police car and other higher abuse uses. with the weight of the car and the power the new engine makes, it cant hurt to keep this thing from shredding its insides apart.Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo
War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...
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Originally posted by Scott Liggett View PostOut of curiosity, are you using the star washers with the flexplate bolts?Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo
War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...
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Good question on the star washers. I just bought ARP flywheel bolts for the Volvo (7/16" and same ARP PN as the Chevy uses) and I need to know the recommendation before I screw the whole deal together. Maybe just LocTite? I'm willing to make a hardware run if needed.
Dan
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Originally posted by DanStokes View PostGood question on the star washers. I just bought ARP flywheel bolts for the Volvo (7/16" and same ARP PN as the Chevy uses) and I need to know the recommendation before I screw the whole deal together. Maybe just LocTite? I'm willing to make a hardware run if needed.
Dan
I got a bit delayed with the wagon, had to order a new transmission pan, the old one ended up having a hairline crack in it. plus it was banged up a bit, so instead of welding the crack and warping the whole deal, I just ordered a new one, which showed up today, so I'll get it buttoned back up over the weekend.Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo
War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...
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I would have but double checking the ARP paperwork, it says to NOT use washers.
as of right now, I have the trans finished up. I swapped out the servo, the new valvebody and pan is on, and its mostly bolted back together.
Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo
War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...
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[QUOTE=Shelty;n1070933]I would have but double checking the ARP paperwork, it says to NOT use washers.
I wondered about that. ARP has always been top notch for me and I was surprised that they didn't include them if they wanted us to use them. I haven't opened my package yet so I haven't read the instructions. I'm guessing a drop o' LocTite red and go with it.
Dan
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im not sure, maybe it has something to do with the clamping force of the bolt. The bolts came with assembly lube, which I used under the bolt head, and you need to torque them to a higher spec than stock bolts. Im hoping they stay put this time. I dont feel like taking the whole dumb thing apart again.Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo
War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...
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I know it's possible (can't speak to "likely") for star washers to break. Then they can work their way out leaving the bolt loose. We always used star washers and LocTite on our dyno driveshaft bolts which were simple Grade 8s. I never saw a broken one but one of our young engineers was nervous about one of the washers breaking - guess he was warned about that in engineering school. Maybe if we'd had ARPs we could have torqued them tighter and skipped the washers.
BTW - These were HUGE U-joints with 12 bolt flanges. It took forever to tighten all of them and there was no room for a socket on many of the nuts, requiring tightening with an open end wrench. We hand tightened them as tight as possible them tapped the wrench with a hammer for max tightness - all our 3/4" wrenches were beat up.
Dan
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