The car runs! I got the few small things buttoned up, like the solenoid switch, filled it with some fluid, and got the vacuum line run.
fired it up and ran it for a few minutes. I have a minor leak, one of the AN fittings is dripping, so I need to tighten it up. but I should have it on the road sometime this week.
Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo
War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...
WHAT'S THAT NOISE??!! (It's an old chainsaw joke.....)
Great that it's burning fuel. When I fired Mutt up the other day I had that same great feeling so I can relate.
Dan
it's an old Aggie joke. You never tell it, so I will.
Aggie gets a job as a sawyer for the summer and comes back in to camp for the cord tally on his first day. The foreman is taking everyone's counts, 14, 13, 16, everyone is applauding each other, and then he gets to the Aggie who mutters "5" in an embarrased tone. FIVE?! The foreman demands to see his saw, set's the brake, pulls the choke, and yanks on the starter cord. The saw screams to life and the Aggie jumps back in terror screaming "What's that noise!!!!"
she is finally on the ground again, after 6 months. I need to adjust the TV cable, as well as the carb as for some reason the car is running really rich, then air up/replace the rear shocks as those air shocks have seen better days. car is sitting nose high.
but I have work training this week to deal with so Ive not been home much.
I got home from training this afternoon, and after, voting, gym and general laziness, I wanted to hear the car run again. I also figured why not drive it! I let the TV cable self adjust itself, which puts the cable in the general area of where it wants to be, plus with the TCI constant pressure valvebody line pressure isnt as much of a worry as it was before.
drove up and down the street a few times, and made one part throttle pull up to about 30mph (short narrow street) second gear shift is nice and firm. The brakes are surprisingly there. It sounds good for having only a couple hours run time and practically 0 tuning whatsoever
after the drive, just a few minor issues.
-obviously I need to adjust the TV cable properly
the carb needs to be adjusted or rejetted as it runs pig rich. burns your eyes.
as it climbed the RPMs, I could hear it sound like it was breaking up.
in reverse and Drive, the idle drops down low and stumbles or stalls.
hard braking will stall it out.
the throttle is also a bit hard, I was thinking of getting rid of the stock solid bar linkage and put in a new pedal with a cable linkage.?
Im thinking, and please correct me if I am wrong, but all those issues are due to no carb adjustment and a vacuum leak (that Ive not found yet). right? and the breaking up would be a timing issue correct?
like I said, the engine only had the cam break in and a couple hours run time before the trans exploded, I didnt play with the timing very much when I got it broken in, and Ive not touched the carb. This is the farthest Ive driven it in months.
Harbor Freight has a multi-meter under 5 bux that works great!
I concur with Scott..
As derby cars refire multiple times, the batteries lose voltage, the cars WILL run crappy..
I have checked batteries right at the end of an event, 10 volts .. Then a few min they will show 12 v. And run fine..
Harbor Freight has a multi-meter under 5 bux that works great!
I concur with Scott..
As derby cars refire multiple times, the batteries lose voltage, the cars WILL run crappy..
I have checked batteries right at the end of an event, 10 volts .. Then a few min they will show 12 v. And run fine..
I talked to tons of people who wire up a HEI using the old points ignition wire, not knowing that the original wiring has a built in resistor wire that drops the voltage after a couple of minutes. The engine will run on 9 volts but it isn't enough voltage to fire the plugs strong enough. They will run rich and eventually foul the plugs.
Last edited by Scott Liggett; April 28, 2016, 06:22 PM.
Yep, running rich motors to keep from burning valves and overheating 10V or less at half to full throttle causes the stock dizzy to foul..
Remember the majority of derby cars run no alt..
Last edited by Deaf Bob; April 29, 2016, 12:01 AM.
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