2014 Jeep JoKe was SAR 5, now SAR 5d? Cummins r2.8 install

[SuperBuickGuy]

shiny new parts

more shininess

new motor mounts


maybe I should get the gas out

well look a hole

seems like a lot of room, but it's not

well sure, if I use the gas axe

stuffing

oil filter - you have 2 (maybe 3) options with the kit - to remote relocate... problem is... where?

another view of the problem

there's another unseen problem - the shifter is about 6" too far forward
I might cheat 3" before a major firewall remodel


I've seen this fit - so I know it must but at this point... wow is it tight

a/c won't fit in the 'stock' location but I have a mid-mount... problem is I'm not sure it will fit there either


yet still, I've done tougher but it is going to be quite a mountain to climb

[SuperBuickGuy]

I bet the EPA is leaning on conversion companies about putting this motor in post-99 vehicles.... yet still, pictures like this from SEMA 2017 really help... e.g. the fuse box is 90* to stock ;) and they removed a plastic guard I've been fighting.

[SuperBuickGuy]

onward
I can set the transmission on the original cross member - it needs a lot of work to make it work but it works

time to move it back over where I can move it with the crane

the crane

it all needs to come back out to put this bracket in place

[SuperBuickGuy]

clutch fitting
storytime, I have a person at Centerforce 'looking' and a message to Quickdraw about what clutch/pressure plate works with this system.... so far, crickets. While I'm waiting (4 days and counting) for their input, I did this.
Removed the clutch/pressure plate from the stock set up and bolted it in place on the new flywheel.

with 'new' throwout bearing in place


so here's the problem, it does bolt up but it may not work. I had a double clutch setup for a LS/t-56 combo, it bolts in place on an 11" flywheel (thus can 'fit') on pretty much any V8 GM vehicle.... problem is it doesn't give enough room to fully disengage the clutch.... this one - I don't know, my calibrated eyeball says the fingers are too tall - thus it will start slipping pretty quickly as there isn't enough pressure on the flywheel to hold the clutch in place... the aftermarket bellhousing allows for quite a bit of adjustment but I'm still stuck back on the 'may not be enough pressure' .... will call other manufacturers next week because clutch/pressure plates start at $700 and I really don't want to deal with something that doesn't work - because there's no returning a used setup.

so I wait. I have the new shift setup on order - meaning I can't set the engine in place until I know where everything is going to land (especially in the vertical). I also maybe put a short lift to gain some oil pan clearance (which my wife won't like)....

[SuperBuickGuy]

spent most of the day, doesn't look like I did much at all
of course, to get that a/c pump in place required removing the motor... but that's easy

and while I was in there, remove what was left of the motor mounts... note the rust?

mark my words, that will be a Jeep buy back eventually.....
before removal of the plate

now nice and polished up

then started the process of designing a rear mount


yep, that's all....

[SuperBuickGuy]

starting to narrow into where the motor is going to live
as usual, starting with the rearmost

it's in there, but not right - the motor's rotation threw me off and I got the trans 3/4" to the passenger side... ah well

this rotation... what a pain to get it leveled

but now it's about where it needs to live

the biggest headache is this low pressure line on the ps pump. It can't be rotated - it's cast into the housing

after getting it in place, I have plenty of room behind the motor (thought I will put the radiator in place before I go full weld

not sure how these "for a JK" mounts are supposed to work. If you weld them to the frame the upper control arms will hit them

[SuperBuickGuy]

I think I'm to the point of fab. Maybe.
I finally bought a engine holder.... which allows me to compress the suspension

and try different altitudes

the most challenging spot

well now all I have to do is fab mounts... all

[SuperBuickGuy]

time for mounts

driver's side

actually sitting on its mounts... that said, the passenger side sagged so there will be some cutting and lifting tomorrow night

[SuperBuickGuy]

another day on the heep

cross member finishing

fun fact, cat can't stay on with the motor mounts in place

yes, now flat - the biggest problem was the mount compressed more then an inch... this compresses but only like 3/8"

motor mounts welded and painted

other mount welded and painted


in other news, why I hate heeps.... see the stud? that is right dead on top of the transmission... creates clearance problems and a fantastic way to take skin off hands

[silver_bullet]

You are doing better than I imagine I could ever do !

[DanStokes]

The crossmember looks like my handiwork only with better welds. Curious - did the engine come with an after treatment system (you'll think it's a cat which it sort of is)? I know way more about Diesel after treatment than any human should and find myself wondering what loadings they used and what regeneration technique they used for the NOx adsorber regeneration and........

[SuperBuickGuy]

The crossmember looks like my handiwork only with better welds. Curious - did the engine come with an after treatment system (you'll think it's a cat which it sort of is)? I know way more about Diesel after treatment than any human should and find myself wondering what loadings they used and what regeneration technique they used for the NOx adsorber regeneration and........

before it fell off in a tragic sawzall accident, my 1994 Suburban had a cat.... I should replace that but I think polar bears are not cute and they need a bath. Don't even get me started on penguins. Evil creatures.

[silver_bullet]

[DanStokes]

before it fell off in a tragic sawzall accident, my 1994 Suburban had a cat.... I should replace that but I think polar bears are not cute and they need a bath. Don't even get me started on penguins. Evil creatures.

Just so you know: That engine may have been set up for DEF to regenerate the NOx biscuit or it might have a regeneration cycle built into the computer to drive the mixture rich when the back pressure across the NOx brick reaches a certain value. Either way, if you aren't using the aftertreatment you'll need to work with the ECM to delete the regeneration cycle. If you can make it fit I'd go with the aftertreatment - they really do work and cost you very little. I tend to agree with you on the '94 - those systems really weren't very good.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Just so you know: That engine may have been set up for DEF to regenerate the NOx biscuit or it might have a regeneration cycle built into the computer to drive the mixture rich when the back pressure across the NOx brick reaches a certain value. Either way, if you aren't using the aftertreatment you'll need to work with the ECM to delete the regeneration cycle. If you can make it fit I'd go with the aftertreatment - they really do work and cost you very little. I tend to agree with you on the '94 - those systems really weren't very good.

there is no DEF system. I can delete the cat - Cummins even makes a kit to do so; however, when the system works - it works. Point is, for now, it stays but the moment it gives me trouble, it's outta there.

joking aside, I still hate penguins.