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Scott's 1967 GMC 1500 pickup

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  • My '67 would be warm within 3 miles even in winter. Four-core radiator, 180* - 195* thermostat even with the stroker to have winter heat. 160* thermostat just didn't allow heat buildup for my frozen toes & Rudolf nose.

    I concur with your heater hose routing as pictured, mine was that way and worked when a hotter thermostat was in place.

    Sweet ride...
    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...n-block-wanted

    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...-Blue-Turd(le)

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    • What kind of valve is that? Looks restrictive to me.

      The megasquirt shows the temp in my Skylark rises about a degree every 2 seconds until it gets to the thermostat temp while driving to work (slower when just sitting there idling). My Centurion is the only car I have that seems to have an issue maintaining temp in temps below 20ºF, but otherwise no issues. When the symptoms the Centurion had was the temp would oscillate between the thermostat temp and 120ºF. A small sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator solves the oscillations. The other cars don't seem to have this issue.
      Escaped on a technicality.

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      • Sometimes I think it's the shear volume of cold air against the engine that keeps it from warming up no matter what T stat you use.
        Tom
        Overdrive is overrated


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        • On the recommendation of a friend, I took my two rallys to the local farm irrigation company to sand blast and powder coat the wheels. They did his new wheels for his pulling truck and they looked great. So, I gave them a shot. For $45 each they did a fantastic job.

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          • Beautiful!

            Hope you had a tire shop spin them up first, to make sure they are true and round.

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            • Originally posted by yellomalibu View Post
              Beautiful!

              Hope you had a tire shop spin them up first, to make sure they are true and round.

              Naw. Just rolled them down the driveway.
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              • It occurred to me that except for maintenance parts, spark plugs, brake shoes, etc; all of this truck's build, upgrades, and repair parts all came from the junkyard. Maybe I should have put this build thread in the Under $5000 Challenge section.


                I suppose I should have test fitted these damn wheels sometime before I ended up here.




                Mounted up on truck. I took the rusty lug nuts, took my little wire brush and steel wool and in twenty minutes they looked new again.
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                • Wow...sandblast and coating for that money is a great deal!

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                  • Originally posted by AFFORDILLAC View Post
                    Wow...sandblast and coating for that money is a great deal!

                    I was surprised as well. They charged me for actual time to do the work. 15 minutes each for sandblasting (Their guy must be a speed demon on the blaster) 15 minutes painting each wheel, then 1/2 lb of color and 1/2 lb of clear. $10/lb for color and $5/lb for clear.
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                    • Found and grabbed complete power steering set up for the truck. Brackets, pulleys, pump and box. Only need a new pressure hose. Truck must've spent it's life in Western Nebraska. There was 10 pounds of red clay on the steering box.
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                      • nice score! might want to rebuild the pump and replace the seals on the box before you install them... it saves your vocal cords (and knuckles) later...
                        Patrick & Tammy
                        - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                        • What a kool truck...I'd love to drive that daily.

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                          • The power steering install came to screeching halt today. Seems the pump I found sitting in the engine compartment of a '68 Suburban was for a long water pump. Brackets are wrong. Back to the junk yard I go.

                            I did mount the alternator in it's correct position, up on the cylinder head. Fixed the wiring to it. The ground wire was broke altogether and the others were about to break. Probably why the ammeter didn't work.

                            Did a bit of painting while the front of the engine was bare. Just the front of the engine, the unpainted water pump and balancer. Then installed the new crank and water pump pulleys.
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                            • Those wheels look great.The best part is that they weren't made in China.
                              Tom
                              Overdrive is overrated


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                              • Originally posted by Huskinhano View Post
                                Those wheels look great.The best part is that they weren't made in China.

                                Thanks. I am trying to keep this build as low buck as possible. Using some ingenuity and junkyard creativity to get where I want. I did already order up the LMC and Classic Industries truck catalogs. Already have the PDF versions on my laptop.

                                While trying to figure out my situation with my power steering conversion. I discovered that I will probably need to order up the lower bracket new. Kinda sucks. I swear GM changed the brackets every freaking year. I used my contacts at the junkyard to get a pump off a '68 GMC they have in holding. It's completely different than the set up I got off a 1972. WTH?!! The '68 brackets and pump would hit the '72 alternator bracket. As much as GM did not change much on the exterior of their small blocks, this shit pisses me off to no end. I rolled around the yard last night on the golf cart looking at trucks from '65 to '01 with small blocks and power steering and nearly everyone was different.

                                In my research above, I discovered that lower alternator bracket looks to be one of Alan Grove's setups. They make fancy and pricey brackets for hot rods and they are not even painted or powdered coated. This one priced out at $75.
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