FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[silver_bullet]

[SuperBuickGuy]

well now, problems.
Yesterday, I drove my '40 and ended up beside the road because it was overheating. I've had trouble with 2 things, one - it randomly overheats (like it has an air bubble in the cooling system... but how does it get there? thought maybe a heater hose that was loose. then yesterday all the warnings went off and I walked home then towed it home.

I get it home and the lower cooling hose connection is disconnected. It's been there for 7 years - so, while it doesn't have a lip on the tube, it should have stayed... but it didn't... so first checked the thermostat because collapsed hose

took 450* to get this to open

and would close at 139*

got a new one


took it for a drive and blew the hose off again

back to the drawing board - in the past I noticed a bit of coolant in the exhaust on the passenger side.... which leads me to conclude I probably fully cracked the head...

which now leads me to what to do.... I have enough parts to build a 383 (from the crank I have left over from my worst day (those who know, know).

[SuperBuickGuy]

high build applied...
outside, of course



and shot the insides too


now 2-4 hours of sanding - the whole point is blend so it's not immediately identifiable as junk (need to look at it closer to determine that)... but whatever, they're full metal, aren't rusty, and will fit the hole... and, as I said before, probably never used....

[SuperBuickGuy]

I've had these half-doors mostly finished for years... time to get paint on them

all I have to do is a bit of finish work, make them a bit less wavy (and seriously, good enough is more then good enough)

[SuperBuickGuy]

I had a heck of a time bleeding the one on Mutt the Race Truck. I solved it with a veterinary syringe pushing brake fluid back into the master from down below. I now use that method to bleed brakes with usually good results.

fitting the 'stock' FJ40 flex line to the aftermarket slave was the biggest issue. I may yet have to machine a face on the slave cylinder then use a copper crush washer on top of it. The other issue is that you have to adjust the pedal to what seems like a pre-load in order to get it to work. I suspect that over time that will resolve but at the start - it really seems like you're doing it wrong.

[DanStokes]

I had a heck of a time bleeding the one on Mutt the Race Truck. I solved it with a veterinary syringe pushing brake fluid back into the master from down below. I now use that method to bleed brakes with usually good results.

[SuperBuickGuy]

and now the clutch works
what an utter pita to bleed



but the clutch works, and works a lot better then before. so winning

[fatguyzinc]

hoppy easter, honkymofo!

[SuperBuickGuy]

troglodyte?
im impressed. thats a pretty obscure word there, sister.

now you know that there IS a word for you. Happy Easter buddy

[fatguyzinc]

troglodyte?
im impressed. thats a pretty obscure word there, sister.

[SuperBuickGuy]

if it kinks its because you aint got enough weight, size, and/or strength
behind it to bend it fast enough, you girly-man...

I didn't figure you couldn't read a tape measure.

only troglodytes have to deal with such things

[silver_bullet]

I forgot to mention that a !" EMT bender is the same one that is used for 3/4" rigid conduit

[silver_bullet]

oh, i can bend it fine-- i just cat get the PLACEMENT of the bends down.
ive tried all the marks, the star, reverse bend, etc and it still comes out wrong.
maybe its just me being an idiot, i dunno, cant seem to figure out the correct
"put the middle of the bend right HERE' on the tool mark.

so everything comes out too long, or too short, or the length is correct but the
bend is 2"-3" inches to far away or not far enough from the end....

Get EMT (cheap) to practice on and make a pattern.... EMT is the thinwall stuff that isn't threadable... the directions that come with the bender are very helpful... an UGLY'S book will help as well: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ugly%27s+electrical+reference+book&i=stripbook s&hvadid=598729364855&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9018663&h vn etw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8785461028626736512&hvtargid= kwd-3543216266&hydadcr=22593_13531299&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_2dxgniltb2_e

this also will give you considerable insight:

By the way, you need to use a bender marked for rigid and EMT so you get an iron shoe that can take more force... I ahve seen guys thread in a 3/4" 8 foot stick of rigid conduit for more leverage.... have even seen bar stock inserted in the handle to make it beefier ....
The Rigid brand bender has a lifetime warranty... for 3/4" thick wall you need model 35225
Cheapest price I found: https://www.globaltestsupply.com/pro...AaAohnEALw_wcB

[fatguyzinc]

allegedly they are. I had one ages ago, called it my pipe kinker

if it kinks its because you aint got enough weight, size, and/or strength
behind it to bend it fast enough, you girly-man...

[fatguyzinc]

oh, i can bend it fine-- i just cat get the PLACEMENT of the bends down.
ive tried all the marks, the star, reverse bend, etc and it still comes out wrong.
maybe its just me being an idiot, i dunno, cant seem to figure out the correct
"put the middle of the bend right HERE' on the tool mark.

so everything comes out too long, or too short, or the length is correct but the
bend is 2"-3" inches to far away or not far enough from the end....