FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[Deaf Bob]

Surprised you didnt use a paper punch..

[SuperBuickGuy]

so more detail work, these are late 90s F350 van front springs - right diameter, increased wire size, and progressive...


fixing the land cruiser lean by unequal cuts to bring it down to the right length


I need to tune this a bit more... but it's close, very close

but then I got interrupted by my wife's Heep - she filled her inverter and a plug full of water... electric devices don't like water (who knew?)


but we're back
so I added a 2" spacer for a bit of insulation from noise and put it back together... now I have 5" travel (middle of the travel) for the rear and the rig is dead level front/back


for those counting, it was 24" with 31" tires to the bottom of the rocker panel. Now it's 28 with 38.5s and a whole bunch more travel. It's ready for 40s, my wallet isn't ready for them, but finally....

[silver_bullet]

definitely smoothing out the rough edges... just in time for winter!

[SuperBuickGuy]

so back on the ground it had a land cruiser lean, but the other way... equalized the front coil overs, still no joy.... so time to make both rear springs level


as you can see by the picture, the first strap just could hold the axle twice so time to do something a bit more creative


and install the bump stop too

no more lean.

and it drives excellent. I still need to reset the castor (again) because along with an issue with the driveshaft angle, they changed the castor to the point where it's darty... no big deal, just a quick adjustment

[Deaf Bob]

Nice the solution was "easy".
You did build this thing for adjustability...
Looks good nice and level..

[SuperBuickGuy]

So as you know, I went wheeling yesterday.... beside not taking enough air pressure out (18 vs. 8)... things went okay. Well, okay if you consider almost rolling it at 70 mph. Pulled off the freeway and the steering box was loose, again.... on top of this, I've been really needing to tie the frame rails together since all of the force is on one rail... so that was today's work

I suppose if I was doing a full hard-core vehicle, I'd just put a mid-plate in... but I like not rattling fillings out so the solution had to be a be less caveman


first I tied the motor mounts together - but that's pretty weak considering it's only bolted in


so I added a Y member


not a lot of clearance, but my solution (if it hits, and probably if it doesn't) will be move the track bar. It's short, it's on a high-arc and now I realize I can lengthen it and put it on less of an arc which should make 100 mph less scary


*for those without a sense of humor, 100 mph is a JOKE.....

[SuperBuickGuy]

In other news, it was lean-popping that started after a hard climb, and got progressively worse as the day went along.... to the point the last climb to my house I was concerned would be on a tow rope behind my H3.... Normally speaking, that means the module went (again)... but it wouldn't start in the morning if that were true. It starts and runs just fine, so I dunno.Right sides sounds great.... One of our friends pointed out it didn't sound right - and I agree, it didn't. The left side sounds like it's running lean or half-dropping a cylinder - which has me curious about whether or not I bent a pushrod... so in the other things I'm going to do, it'll be time to do an exploratory valve cover removal.... hopefully it's something simple like a bent push rod....

[silver_bullet]

crossed fingers here...

[SuperBuickGuy]

got to checking clearances... looks fine




still not sure on stutter - my mechanic friend thinks one of the injectors is wonky.... I'm thinking of simply driving it tomorrow then taking it to him when it's doing its mambo

[silver_bullet]

driving it alone is fantastic progress!!!

[SuperBuickGuy]

January 1st we're going up to Jack's Pass - should be a blast, I'm going to get aggressive on tire pressure this time.

[STINEY]

Does the studder happen often....or just once or twice during a 10 mile trip?

If I remember correctly, you are running a Howell injection? Based on GM 90's ECM?

The '91 C1500 manual shift I have been driving for the last several weeks has a studder as well. It only does it from a cold start, and after a few miles (no warmup period, its a winter beater)

The temp gauge works but is inaccurate, the truck temps are fine as checked by infrared gun. My suspicion is that the computer is tied to the gauge readout somehow, and the truck is attempting to go into open-loop then hits a conflicting input, studders, and goes back to closed-loop.

Wild guess, but maybe it applies here?

[SuperBuickGuy]

It's a Howell system - there's even more bad then I described before - but yes, it's based upon a 90s TBI ecm.

the temp gauge and the computer temp gauge are separate sensors. The ECM one is on the head, the dash one is on the intake manifold.

all of the stutters mine are experiencing are timing related - are you getting any codes?

[STINEY]

I haven't attempted to pull codes, as I have no CEL displaying. And the light does work, my floppy tilt column caused an issue just last evening in which flopping to the far left caused the truck to stall, repeatedly. Last time it showed a CEL on restart, but it went away after driving 100 yards or so.

After that I held the steering wheel to prevent leftwards floppage, and drove the van today. Not looking forwards to digging into that column just to tighten a few bolts GM was too cheap to put loctite on.

Anyways, if you think there might be some stored codes that do not display a CEL I will be glad to check that for you after work today. Jumper terminals A & B right?

https://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-g...codes-free.php

[SuperBuickGuy]

yep to the grounding. lol @ stall issue - I've delayed fixing that, but never to that level, congrats!