FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[SuperBuickGuy]

I think plastic, lead, and copper would all have issues. But since one of those 'things' that happen while wheeling is spinning a bead (shouldn't happen with the locks but still) dynamic balancing would be cool if it works. It was one of the 'zuki guys who was running it.

and I really like the look of it now....

[Russell]

Bead locks are just on the out side? Does the inside bead not come loose?

[SuperBuickGuy]

usually you knock from the outside in, also it also tends to spin in the bead before it comes loose - by stopping the spinning the adherence you normally get with beads doesn't let it go. There are some, though, that run double bead locks - all of these mods are in the 'you build for what you're doing' stuff. I rarely lose a bead, but these tires have been such a pain that I've had to run much lower pressures and then it's just a matter of time....

[Deaf Bob]

I'm for beadlocks at lower pressures. Barnyard mud stinks and swapping out a flat in knee deep slurry is no fun especially when you "trip.
We screw derby tires in and out because of sideways hits (hits on rims). It does rip the beads apart..
Spinning flat tires gets you nowhere when they spin in the tire.. Beadlocked or screwed tires will move you while flat to either get to a changing spot or the winner's circle..

[SuperBuickGuy]

storage for coming attraction

https://youtu.be/d7BESAD_EIY

[SuperBuickGuy]

so last night I took the '40 to an overland deal and had issues with it not wanting to restart.... so I removed one battery and at least one issue (a bit of corrosion on the disconnects)


wasn't the problem - this was - the reset button. Apparently it wasn't fully engaged...

[SuperBuickGuy]

So I had convinced myself that I needed to parallel the panhard and do a high-steer to the steering to tame the beast. Before I got too far, I went back to my suspension/steering books and came to the conclusion that zero camber was to blame. It's a Ford axle, so it comes from the factory with nearly 3.0 degrees of positive caster... too much in my opinion so I bought alignment shims and zero'd it. Which was okay with the narrower wheels, but once I got the wider, bead-locks it became nearly undriveable.

so tonight, since my 'burb didn't get back (needs more parts), I spent an hour on this.



and it drives perfect. So for those curious - these are the specs, toe-in 1/4" - call that 2 degrees (at the rim), camber .75 degrees positive, caster 2.50 degrees positive - all at ride height.

[Loren]

Sounds like you're in for some work. I had to drop the steering box a bit on the Jeep (not wanting a further-dropped pittman arm than stock, which is enough) as well as raising the tie rod which it's connected to, to get our drag link/track bar set near level as well...I know you have the option of just putting the steering arm on top of the spindle (you've got the ones that have the flat on top at the passenger side, right?) and leaving the tie rod alone anyhow, good deal. Of course the track bar establishes the roll center, the closer in height that and the drag link are the better. -- More caster means less jerking the steering wheel around over small-medium rocks, plus drives better on the freeway, I think I aimed for five degrees on the Chero with our much-smaller tires but wound up with a little more.

Of course for all the Jeep packaging, the curved track bar is required which we've learned the negatives about. If I could have possibly made that a straight link I'd have loved to.

[SuperBuickGuy]

no work, not going to do the change

[silver_bullet]

glad she's back to drivable....

[SuperBuickGuy]

Today was a fun day - I got to show off the '40 and it worked awesome. 2 years to build, 1 year to dial in... another year to perfect it
One of the things I appreciate most is the reaction people have to it, overwhelmingly positive - and now I enjoy driving it since I figured the steering stuff out. There will be a few upgrades (such as rear coil overs) but at this point it's time to have fun with it before I have to make it magazine perfect again

anyway, because the sun has shown on us, it's time to take the top off.


and put the alien top on


I really like this thing... no flapping, stops the harsh wind. I have my bikini top for when it gets soggy, but this is the way it runs until October

[SuperBuickGuy]

Other future plans include doing the powder coating that would have probably killed the build had I done them when I was building it - at this point it looks like about $1500 in powder coating - which, at the time, probably would have shelved this. The point is, do the really hard-to-change-stuff and spend the money there (axles, blasting and coating the frame, coating the floors and underfloor) then you can pull bits off later and circle back - in my case, the grill, the surround, the bezel, the brush bar, the soft-top framework, the fenders and the flares will get coating. I may even pull the cage and get it coated too as I have a couple mods I want to do to it.... all easy, all will be done in a month or less....

[JOES66FURY]

Why not rhino line the pieces you want to powder coat? Buddy of mine is a USAF paint and body guy (A10's) he has got pretty handy and spraying bedliner and has used it quite a bit on those little bits and pieces with great success...looks pretty damn good too IMO. He can spray a whole 8ft bed for right around 160 bucks....just a thought.

[SuperBuickGuy]

because rhino lining body panels takes "I was raised in a trailer by my parents, who are also my aunt and uncle" to a whole lower level.

[JOES66FURY]

So, you dont like that idea then? :-D