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time to make a new cross arm
now we're getting there
now in black
these were a bad idea, seemed like a good idea at the time - hold the rope and shackle up... problem is it's too close to the narrow side of the winch plate so you couldn't get a shackle in place
chop chop
new ones that are longer... and since I plan on tow-barring this, these will work for that as well
for those curious. the tie rod ends are
ES2234R (right) and ES 2233L (with the hole) . Those are 7/8-18 right and left thread. The 2234 is important because otherwise the TRE won't clear the cross shaft TRE. Both are 1 ton chevy TRE
the arm from the steering box to the right side high steer are ES2026R and ES2027L. These are necessary because they have a 30* range of motion the ones listed above have 12 degrees and it's not enough... they too are 1 ton Chev but are for the arm from the steering box to the pitman arm. They are 7/8-18 thread right and left as well.
Personally, I like the RuffStuff bungs, they come with 1 1/4" 'nut' to make adjustment easier.
Also, I used copper coat anti-seize in hopes that it doesn't seize again...the other ends were seized solid.
Next up (after the tow bar) is lower the panhard bar so that it's parallel with the cross shaft. Right now if you accelerate, it will try to go left when you let off the throttle. Easy to adjust to, however, I can fix it so I will
now we're getting there
now in black
these were a bad idea, seemed like a good idea at the time - hold the rope and shackle up... problem is it's too close to the narrow side of the winch plate so you couldn't get a shackle in place
chop chop
new ones that are longer... and since I plan on tow-barring this, these will work for that as well
for those curious. the tie rod ends are
ES2234R (right) and ES 2233L (with the hole) . Those are 7/8-18 right and left thread. The 2234 is important because otherwise the TRE won't clear the cross shaft TRE. Both are 1 ton chevy TRE
the arm from the steering box to the right side high steer are ES2026R and ES2027L. These are necessary because they have a 30* range of motion the ones listed above have 12 degrees and it's not enough... they too are 1 ton Chev but are for the arm from the steering box to the pitman arm. They are 7/8-18 thread right and left as well.
Personally, I like the RuffStuff bungs, they come with 1 1/4" 'nut' to make adjustment easier.
Also, I used copper coat anti-seize in hopes that it doesn't seize again...the other ends were seized solid.
Next up (after the tow bar) is lower the panhard bar so that it's parallel with the cross shaft. Right now if you accelerate, it will try to go left when you let off the throttle. Easy to adjust to, however, I can fix it so I will
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