FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[SuperBuickGuy]

I think we feed off each other, Chris...

anyway, more considerations


the line is where the wheel is moved forward.
stella is not sure that moving the wheel forward 2" is a good idea


still not sure and is stepping away from the guy with the camera


Kensie is just here for the treats


moved forward a bit


this is ride height


squaring holes

[Russell]

I think it will look good with the black area cut out on the rear quarter, it more or less centers the wheel in the panel. I am not a fan of the way the front looks with the wheel forward. Can you push the front fender forward with the tire to keep it centered? Look forward to see what you do with it.

[STINEY]

I am not a fan of the way the front looks with the wheel forward.

Yeah, not to everyone's taste....but its great for approach angle. One of those function-over-form areas.

[Deaf Bob]

Looks pretty right to me too. You have me actually checking out FJs now.....saw a broken down one at the car wash last week, thought about leaving a note on the windshield.....drat you SuperBuickGuy and your evil powers!

If you think JEEPS are great, FJs will make you wonder why you even bothered with Jeeps in the first place!

[SuperBuickGuy]

I think it will look good with the black area cut out on the rear quarter, it more or less centers the wheel in the panel. I am not a fan of the way the front looks with the wheel forward. Can you push the front fender forward with the tire to keep it centered? Look forward to see what you do with it.

the reason I'm moving the tire forward is to preserve the turning circle... leaving the axle in the same spot would severely hamper its ability to turn with the 38s on it

[Russell]

the reason I'm moving the tire forward is to preserve the turning circle... leaving the axle in the same spot would severely hamper its ability to turn with the 38s on it

That's a very good reason. I would vote for better turning radius and strange wheel well

B/c I know you can do it I still think it would look better with the fender shifted forward or cut it and stretch it

I am not worried about you taking my advice it took me a week to get my last buy off the trailer!

[SuperBuickGuy]

this is the interesting stuff to me - it's a lot of bookish crap; but it truly is, to me, the stuff that makes or breaks any car.

On Pirate is a calculator that Dan BarCroft created in 2004.

this kind of thing you get by using it


Four wheeler has a pretty detailed article that kind of gives baselines with where to start.... of course, it helps to have done a suspension or twenty in the past...

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/suspension-brakes/131-0307-four-link-suspension-part-2/

as you know by my roll bars, I'm more visual than paper - so get the baselines and put them on the floor to see if it works


then transfer the "optimal" measurements to the frame to see if it will work.... I think I'll be fine if I can drill a hole through the transfer case.... bright side is the top mount is in a great place.... only everything relies upon stuff fitting... the solution is to raise the frame 2" or so... which works out pretty good because the transfer case cross member, is 2" lower than the frame... I honestly don't plan this, but the reason it's tacked rather than bolted is because I was afraid I was going to have to move it....




this is what it will look like in the vehicle


anyway, tonight I verify, and tomorrow as well, Wednesday I get the upper support and so Thursday I can burn it in.... I may weld the lower brackets and the cross member in place along with the frame mounts.... presuming, again, that the numbers work out

[SuperBuickGuy]

Here's my tentative starting point

4 Bar Linkage Calculator v3.0
Vehicle CG	40.00
Sprung Mass CG	49.00	in
Anti-Squat CG	43.42	in
Suspension Geometry:
Upper Links	x	y	z
Frame End	23.000	15.000	26.000	in
Axle End	0.000	4.500	26.000	in
Vector	23.000	10.500	0.000	in
Length	25.283	in
Unit Vector	0.9097	0.4153	0.0000	1.0000
Intercept	-9.8571	4.5000	26.0000	in
Roll Point	-9.8571	0.0000	26.0000	in
Force	6183.439	lb (Tension)
Force Vector	5625.000	2567.935	0.000	lb
Vertical Slope	0.4565	in/in
Horizontal Slope	0.0000	in/in
Lower Links	x	y	z
Frame End	33.000	3.750	21.000	in
Axle End	3.000	15.500	18.000	in
Vector	30.000	-11.750	3.000	in
Length	32.358	in
Unit Vector	0.9271	-0.3631	0.0927	1.0000
Intercept	42.5745	16.6750	17.7000	in
Roll Point	42.5745	0.0000	21.9574	in
Force	-8446.958	lb (Compression)
Force Vector	-7831.325	3067.269	-783.133	lb
Vertical Slope	-0.3917	in/in
Horizontal Slope	0.100	in/in
Geometry Summary:
Anti-Squat	68.179	%
Roll Axis Slope	-0.0771	in/in (Roll Understeer)
Roll Center Height	25.240	in
Roll Axis Angle	-4.409	degrees (Roll Understeer)
Instant Center X-Axis	83.000	in
Instant Center Z-Axis	26.000	in

[silver_bullet]

I think cutting and stretching the fenders would make it look better proportional to the tires...looks great otherwise!!

[Russell]

I think cutting and stretching the fenders would make it look better proportional to the tires...looks great otherwise!!

It will also help because the rear wheel well will be larger than the front. The length of the flat section would look good if they where similar.

[DanStokes]

Everyone's a darn Artiste! Do what makes you happy.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

Everyone's a darn Artiste! Do what makes you happy.

Dan

better than being a damn yankee

[silver_bullet]

At least, I didn't insist on Patton style Jeep fender spats!

[SuperBuickGuy]

flares - Jeeps make for good donor vehicles ;)




so I don't know what I'm going to do with the rear edge... at this moment, I think it would look best if I decreased the rear, upper radius - but that would be a bit of work.... I could just shorten it...

[silver_bullet]

Sounds like back to the drawing board, but just cutting it off doesn't seem right.