FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[Deaf Bob]

Nothing wrong with the one you used...
The cad plated ones tuck up and take the starting power hits a little better.
Still use the old style on everything else.

Forgot to add... Special bolts needed to use the cad plated ones on old style blocks. (shorter and inch instead of metric..

[Deaf Bob]

the picture is of its cheap replacement - that starts the '40 100% better...

Nothing wrong with the one you used...
The cad plated ones tuck up and take the starting power hits a little better.
Still use the old style on everything else.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Had 2 Powermasters.. Son's fried after 2 derbies.
Daughter's solenoid main power post broke off in spite of not being hit or cable stretched
Back to the small body cad plated GM ones.

the picture is of its cheap replacement - that starts the '40 100% better...

[Deaf Bob]

Had 2 Powermasters.. Son's fried after 2 derbies.
Daughter's solenoid main power post broke off in spite of not being hit or cable stretched
Back to the small body cad plated GM ones.

[SuperBuickGuy]

more fun

and what else?


Powermaster has screwed me for the very last time. First time was a starter that was DOA and had a 90 day warranty. At the same time I'd bought an alternator for my H3, and it almost burned it down. I mentioned something, somewhere about troubles with them and eventually they begged me to try them again - said they were a new company. Yeah, BS. This time the solenoid jammed and took out the relay as well... didn't know I put a relay on this.... Indeed, and it's dead.... screw you powermaster. There, you wanted my advertising.....

[SuperBuickGuy]

I swear that as i get older, I get away with less and less.... the proof
the pink wire fell off - I drove the '40 out of the shop and parked it - idling. a few minutes elapse and the motor quits... whatthebloodyhell?

so I bought the right connector....

and voila.... it works....
crimped, soldered, and taped.

but that system, spade connectors have lasted for decades on other vehicles I repaired.... why not longer?

[SuperBuickGuy]

I wish I had done this earlier... wow what a difference.
out with the old TBI distributor

in with the no-name, billet HEI (which I originally bought for this)

I'll say this again - to put a distributor in, on a SBC, rather then aiming the pointer at #1, aim it at #8 (the one after #1). Why? you want about 10-12* of advance dialed in. If you aim at 8, that's 12* advance.... and it'll fire immediately.

and then

cleaned up the wiring

and the other side


hose clamp to hold the fender on

fixing a leaky exhaust

and it runs and drives far better then before....


still a few things left, but that was a major item off the list

[SuperBuickGuy]

and it runs..... now to do everything else

[SuperBuickGuy]

fixed.... apparently the cable needs two clicks to be fully seated.... I love it when it's simple and am a bit embarrassed at the problem... ah well, I learn so you don't have to.

[DanStokes]

Under the "Like" box there needs to be a "Fingers Crossed" box. You'll get it.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

more spaghetti

and throttle cable

hey look, powah

in theory, this is correct.

I say in theory because the pump comes on when I turn the switch on, but the handheld says it cannot find the ECU.... we will see... there's a secondary problem with no tach signal for the dash.... which is going to require some rewiring (I guess).... anyway, that's it for tonight

to save some questions - I do smell fuel and it isn't leaking.... maybe faulty cable? I dunno...

[DanStokes]

Waiting to see if you like this.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

there are fewer wires, fewer harnesses - this is so much better then the cobbled system I had before.

[silver_bullet]

[hauen]

wiring is the suck, well, not the wiring itself, but the planning and routing, no matter how meticulous I am, there's always one section that looks like a spaghetti factory blew up.