FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[SuperBuickGuy]

I have the high-steer bits coming in the next day or so - that will tell me how much room I have between the steering cross bar and the axle housing... I've also thought about putting the panhard bar to the top of the differential - the problem, though, is if you have a shorter panhard bar than the steering cross bar the axle will move side-to-side as it flexes at a different rate between the two bars.... the best practice is to have the same length steering cross shaft and panhard bar.... then no bump steering

[SuperBuickGuy]

setting the pinion angle

so an annoyance of where I got the brackets - these brackets are not for the heim joints... no big deal to narrow it, but if you sell a "kit", you should make sure all the parts work together.
with that said, the thinner the better as you will soon see




driveshaft lines up


and there's a hole for the upper arm

high steer coming soon


and the brackets




so I could use regular coil springs, but it'd be tight




and there's why it'd be tight,

[SuperBuickGuy]

continued


I think I'm going to use coil overs rather than these springs...in the rear, I need the progressive spring, in the front - not really but I do need the room. Plus, when it comes time to sell this, coil-overs look more professional and goes with the high-end theme.

[SuperBuickGuy]

onward and ever upward
links are so much easier with tape

round 1




driveshaft clearance


and there it is... it would clear, barely.... I don't like barely
so I'll use these

and modify the triangulation so that it only goes to the frame rails

[SuperBuickGuy]

more impediments to progress


so here's where I started


and a really dark picture of where I ended


the forward part of the cross member is permanent


to remind, along with its issue


I don't like that this FJ40 frame has only 2 permanent cross member - thus the decision to make the forward link mount permanent - it also should help if I need to do remove the transmission (but it will be a pain for the bellhousing as it sits)
there are some plans, though
1) the driveshaft won't have to be rubber, but it will, likely be two piece
2) I'm going back to the original mounts, cut in half like I did with the rear
3) the way this all goes together, it shouldn't be too hard to work on it - there will be a 3/8" skid plate under the transmission and transfer case, but once it's removed - everything can come out the bottom
4) the transmission bellhousing... is probably going to change to an open under side since it will be protected by the skid plate that's going to protect the oil pan... I'm also going to use a hydraulic throwout bearing so I have room to run the upper link. I'm also going to change to the 2wd oil filter so I get some room there as well....

thanks for reading.

[Loren]

Always a pleasure to follow some well-thought-out progress

[SuperBuickGuy]

hmmm.... it's more of a general endpoint with many turns along the way....

[SuperBuickGuy]

still trial fitting
transmission mount is better


round 2


round 3


still not sure that's what it's going to look like when it is done... at this juncture, it'll need a carrier bearing for the front driveshaft right at the passenger side link mount... not a death blow, but certainly not optimal either.

[SuperBuickGuy]

and I've decided I'm overthinking this - this stuff is stupid easy, and I'm making it way too complex... tomorrow, I'll cut all that back off and do plan a or was that plan b? screw it... the other brackets are going to be used

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm so glad I didn't remove the spring mounts (yet)... they are the perfect "measure from" point

so here's 1a




of course, I ran out of wire, but as the migraine is medicated - pushing it too much is a classic way to make for a miserable week... I had to go to the welding shop anyway to pick up the last hose for my cooling system - which I will really need when TIG welding the arms.. so now I have two reasons... I love it when a plan comes together

[SuperBuickGuy]

tonight's work
true to form, some assembly is required - these are either end of the panhard bar


time to make the axle end point at the frame end



ends welded on

while waiting for that to cool down... time to make some room



I'm thinking of using this bellhousing instead... dunno yet - I'm going with a hydraulic throwout to gain some needed room (as you'll see in a bit)




panhard bracket


lots of trimming to come


check out where the upper bar landed


I guess Pirate was right... look at this train wreck

[STINEY]

Boogety, boogety, boogety........lead me to the closest slippery pine-needle covered trail counselor! That is awesome!

Did I mention you are causing my jeepitus to flare up again?

[Stewzer55]

Jeepitus? I'd just as soon get 4.3 S10 and go SFA.

[SuperBuickGuy]

started here tonight


decided to forego the bracket and do something a bit more simple



so I'll put the bolt that will eventually go through here (I don't have a 6" bolt tonight) into shear by welding a bracket to the outside of this johnny joint


eventually I'll put this into shear - but I didn't have a 5/8 6" bolt tonight so here it rests... the oil filter will keep it snuggly in place





it looks like everything will clear fine - but I won't know for sure until the panhard bar is in place... which is the next step

[Deaf Bob]

Remote mount filter? Keep the lifeblood in the crankcase where it belongs....