Originally posted by hauen
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FJ40 I call Shipwreck
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on with the fix-its.
first on the list was adjust the clutch.... so I put it on the lift (naturally)
then did a full inspection and lube
these.... not sure I'm a fan.
back to old-fashion
interesting stuff I'm testing. Basically it's a spray on wax with lube in it as well... I'm hoping it does a nice job of keeping the tin worm at bay.... we will see
so I soldered a pig tail on
hopefully things will stay together
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swap that vortec for a big old nasty rat and you'll never worry
about getting enough heat in the cabin again...though my vette sits
on the 180 t-stat 99.9999% of the time, i swear the floorboards
are like frying pans..... touch with bare feet and YOWCH!!!
especially fun since i drive in shorts/slippers 99% of the time. hey, its hawaii.....
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mark it done. First, a heat control device
so I plugged the line on the passenger side - it will get a better-looking solution later, but for now, this will work
what a mess, of the 4 gallons I started with, I have 3 left. I took the Evans out. When I built the '40, everyone was so concerned about overheating. I've driven this thing off-road in 100* weather and never got above 210*.... The down side of Evans is if there is ever a leak - ever try to find coolant at your local parts store? It's going into the Corvette, and now we have 'normal' coolant in the '40
I re-ran some sensors. The driver's side tap is for pipe-thread sensors... so I blocked it, then put the temp sensors in different locations.
And it works very, very well. The heater itself works like a bypass from the pump so it warms up inside very quickly. I still have the 2nd heater for my '40, but I can't imagine I'll ever need it.... once I resolve the fuel situation (get the tank out of the inside), then we'll see - having extra heat since my fun is snow wheeling isn't a bad thing
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Ever since I sealed the floor, it's been cold in the '40.... time to figure out the problem - that starts with understanding the Vortec water pump
and the aha - that bi-pass I need to either redirect that hose (as a bypass again) or simply block it then draw the coolant from another, hotter source. Now to fix.
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; January 1, 2019, 10:15 PM.
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More spaghetti
I forgot I had the 4 injector TBI.... I dunno what direction, I may use this TBI with the MS2 or simply the entire 950 Commander setup... I think the first thing will be power it up and see what's what.... I know why I didn't use it before - there were 2 reasons: 1) I wanted to use a stock GM system for parts availability, and 2) this system could easily fire the Buick motor.... now, it'd be nice to have the CFM because redline is 4000 rpm with the TBI and I'm pretty sure it's lean when cold... the saga continues... nice thing, though, is it runs and I can use it so it's not a must-fix but rather a best-solution when time allows situ
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In the midst of everything, I got working on uncovering the wires so I can use the MS2 on my '40...
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Time to withdraw a recommendation. I have a spot tracker on my FJ40. It worked-ish, for a year. I called them to fix it, and they called back just after I needed to renew. I said "well, don't need it because it doesn't work." "Oh we'll fix it and give you a discount." They did give a discount, and it hasn't worked since.... emails, phone calls, nothing. Don't use these jokers.
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In this case, it'll be pretty easy to tell whether or not he's right. I have ground blocks everywhere else but it all relies on that first leg from the battery to the frame to the block. His instruction makes sense.... that said, why they use 5v systems rather then 12v is another discussion for another day.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
not that I saw.... and that means exactly that.... it could be in there
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I've found that to make rear mounted batteries work properly I've had to run a separate ground from that battery to the starter mount bolt and it's fixed a myriad of headaches. So now I just DO run that wire. Guess I'm agreeing with Mr. Dakota though his is the first technical explanation I've ever heard and I guess it makes sense.
Dan
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Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
I got the same advice from Holley when dealing with my EFI upgrade. Did Dakota Digital have a minimum gauge requirement/recommendation for this wire?
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