I want the studs to match in size and pitch... which means doing some work
after drilling with a 39/64 drill bit
and now the wheels actually are on solid enough to roll it around the shop
the rotors I'd gotten where the wrong ones, apparently 80 has a larger hub size than 77.... but, the seal, not an 80 - so I'll take that tomorrow to have matched up
So more Jeep parts
Wagoneer steering arm. Bonus, beside being shorter, is it's bored out for the Ford/GM tie rod end
and other bonus
it aims away from the frame - which solves an interference issue... of course, with the good comes the bad, it also makes my cross shaft longer... but given all of this is pretty flat, hopefully any bump steer issue will be minimal.
didn't get much accomplished today - the steering tie rod end I need won't be here until Wednesday... but I started scoping out where everything is going to land
a really cool bit I like on the FJ40s is the under-seat box. I'm going to make a new one (the old one didn't come with the purchase price) that locks for... uhhh.... well... things to throw lead, like a slingshot only cooler.
and I'd really consider restoring the original interior; but really, brown? ugh
I also want head rests and the ability to recline...
so far, it's going to be these - mostly because I have them. Though if something else were to drop into my lap (especially a heated, bucket seat), I'd change.
I worked on my CR500af... and entertained parents... so not much accomplished. If I can't sleep, though, I'm going to weld the rear corner - I finally finished hooking up my torch cooler and it works quite well..
patch welded and ground
everdur with mig.... siliconing with mig
actually, it's a good way of not putting too much heat into the weld and making the grinding down of the weld easier
time to figure out the seating in the front
problem is the steering column is now too low
fortunately, I can move it up, just have to reshape the hole
All this to get steering...
I love reworking... so the problem is I want the most turning radius possible
isn't the most
but first I got a TRE in so I could at least start the mocking of the steering...
but there's a slight problem, the cross bar hits the fancy cover. There are 2 fixes for the cover, and one other fix... two fixes would be to cut the center stripe off and weld in a new one at a lower altitude, or simply cut out the offending section and weld in a pipe or something... which is something they'd do on Pirate, as long as the weld are pretty; they'd be golden.... so I dunno.. or use the high-steer... the new TRE solves one of the problems of the high steer - so I still dunno.. I can't same I'm enthralled with the ice-breaking bow of that dana 44 cover.
back to steering.... the bolt is adjusted at whatever the "factory" was for a Ford HP 44, the fix I did halved the distance.... as I'm getting a different offset wheel anyway (so I can run poverty caps), I may just cure the rest with a 1" offset... but that's awhile down the road - perhaps something cleverer will arise before then
to do this require cutting.... why didn't I simply tack these? ugh
Here is the stock cover compared to the aftermarket one.
I suspect that CU designed this for additional fluid capacity - especially given that the seals are on the side of the differential housing (as opposed to the ends like the dana 60 rear... but it does create issues.
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