FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[SuperBuickGuy]

Ever since I sealed the floor, it's been cold in the '40.... time to figure out the problem - that starts with understanding the Vortec water pump

and the aha - that bi-pass I need to either redirect that hose (as a bypass again) or simply block it then draw the coolant from another, hotter source. Now to fix.

[silver_bullet]

Wow....

[SuperBuickGuy]

More spaghetti


I forgot I had the 4 injector TBI.... I dunno what direction, I may use this TBI with the MS2 or simply the entire 950 Commander setup... I think the first thing will be power it up and see what's what.... I know why I didn't use it before - there were 2 reasons: 1) I wanted to use a stock GM system for parts availability, and 2) this system could easily fire the Buick motor.... now, it'd be nice to have the CFM because redline is 4000 rpm with the TBI and I'm pretty sure it's lean when cold... the saga continues... nice thing, though, is it runs and I can use it so it's not a must-fix but rather a best-solution when time allows situ

[silver_bullet]

It's all spaghetti to me .... best of luck to you buddy!

[SuperBuickGuy]

In the midst of everything, I got working on uncovering the wires so I can use the MS2 on my '40...

[SuperBuickGuy]

Time to withdraw a recommendation. I have a spot tracker on my FJ40. It worked-ish, for a year. I called them to fix it, and they called back just after I needed to renew. I said "well, don't need it because it doesn't work." "Oh we'll fix it and give you a discount." They did give a discount, and it hasn't worked since.... emails, phone calls, nothing. Don't use these jokers.

[SuperBuickGuy]

In this case, it'll be pretty easy to tell whether or not he's right. I have ground blocks everywhere else but it all relies on that first leg from the battery to the frame to the block. His instruction makes sense.... that said, why they use 5v systems rather then 12v is another discussion for another day.

[cstmwgn]

not that I saw.... and that means exactly that.... it could be in there

The impression I got was that it was not intended to be the complete ground from battery to block but to augment the existing grounds. I have 1/0 ground cable running from the battery to the frame in the rear where the battery now resided and 1/0 cable from the battery to a power distrubution block in the engine compartment. I have 4 gauge ground wires running from the alternator to the frame, the starter motor to the frame, from the engine block to the frame and the body to the frame in the rear. I have that braided flat wire running from the body to the frame in the front. And Holley still insisted on running a smallish ground wire (8gauge) from the battery to the block. This was in addition to the dedicated ground wire from the battery to the ECU. I clearly don't understand all this but complied as I couldn't articulate a reason to not follow their advice.

[DanStokes]

I've found that to make rear mounted batteries work properly I've had to run a separate ground from that battery to the starter mount bolt and it's fixed a myriad of headaches. So now I just DO run that wire. Guess I'm agreeing with Mr. Dakota though his is the first technical explanation I've ever heard and I guess it makes sense.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

I got the same advice from Holley when dealing with my EFI upgrade. Did Dakota Digital have a minimum gauge requirement/recommendation for this wire?

not that I saw.... and that means exactly that.... it could be in there

[cstmwgn]

... you must have a ground from the battery to the motor ...

I got the same advice from Holley when dealing with my EFI upgrade. Did Dakota Digital have a minimum gauge requirement/recommendation for this wire?

[SuperBuickGuy]

One of today's first task is to follow some advice from the guy who owns Dakota Digital. I'm first to admit that I am skeptical about this advice, however, Dakota Digital has forgotten 10x what I've ever known about car electrical so follow along as I learn.

What is this earth shaking advice. This: you must have a ground from the battery to the motor and cannot rely on the frame as the ground 'wire'. DD's argument is that there is carbon in the steel and just enough resistance in the steel so that your dash many not function correctly. Well, my dash doesn't work right (and yes, I know I've never mentioned it probably because I figured it was installer, not Dakota, error)...... Too be continued

[SuperBuickGuy]

something I found recently that's pretty cool: it uses GPS of your phone (or Android tablet) and your HAM radio to provide out-of-cell-phone mapping.
APRSdroid - APRS for Android

I have this, it works quite well - it also lets you know of other ham operators who are nearby. For me, I use my Nexus 7 and my Baofeng radio.... and this cable to connect the two

https://www.amazon.com/BTECH-APRS-K1-Interface-APRSDroid-Compatible/dp/B01LMIBAZW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540489127&sr=8-2&keywords=baofeng+aprs+cable

now to put my tablet mount back in my '40...

[SuperBuickGuy]

time to do some light upgrades.


the yellow lights are pretty much useless because of where they are at, the HID are spot lights and I need a broader beam
so replacement happened

[Deaf Bob]

Osteocarcoma?
Either way cancer is FAWKED!
Rub his head, Hopefully it is just a sprain..